Hello,

 

What do think about this then????

 

Went up to see my mechanic today to speak about ecu upgrades for my zed, What he came up with was this, to have what he described as a stand alone ecu, which will actively contol every aspect of the cars performance, this he said is laptop compatible and contol every thing from ignition re-tardation to boost, getting rid of all the unneccesary wiring which is renound in jap spec cars.This inturn will make any remapping a whole lot easier and more accurate for the engine, so as i upgrade peice by piece the ecu will always be ok to handle the extras. The guy in question has an excellent motor sport background, any thoughts on this then????

standalone ecu's have been around since jesus christ.

 

Do you have a lot to spend as they are not cheap.

 

Are you planning on doing endless amounts of mods to the zed?

Well put it this way, I'm aware that it wont add anyvalue to the car, so it wont be worthwhile if i were going to sell in 6 months time but thats not the idea. You will have to excuse my ignorance i dont kow a huge ammount about ecu,s. He said to me that it will cost around £1500 all in. seems alot. but will the beneifts be worth it. I dont plan to sell the car, i want to restore it and upgrade it to something unique. He said this would be the best way to go if thats what my intentions were.

Unlike many other cars the The stock Z32 ECU is very mappable as it is, and costs around £100 for a remapped chip.

 

Cost will certainly outweigh any real advantages unless your going for a monster setup with 500bhp+ at rear wheels.

 

Standalone ECU management systems are available from £500 upwards.

 

Getting rid of the old stock 15yr+ old EFI wiring loom is not a bad idea, although a new loom can be purchased for around £300 if there are problems with it.

like i said i am planning to keep the car, although the guy told me that if you are going for a big hp high compreesion set up then, i must be very careful as he did it to one zed and it almost made it undriveable due to the ammount of grip you get.the one he did was 600rwhp, and the guy wrecked it within 2 days, coz as soon as you hit the torque bands the back end decides to be the front end. He said maybe go for a low compression engine with to widen the torque bands to give loads of bottom end grunt.

Nobody highers the compression on a TT engine....you would'nt be able to run any more boost that standard if you did without it detonating the pistons into little pieces.

 

Lowering the compression will allow you to run more boost for higher hp, although it affrects driveablity , giving less bottom end grunt and inferior throttle response.

when you say it affects driveabilty, exactly what do you mean by that, i.e. does it get silly to drive???

when you say it affects driveabilty, exactly what do you mean by that, i.e. does it get silly to drive???

 

In general :

Higher compression = More power

lower compression = Less power.

 

However Lowering the compression allows you to run more boost as there is less chance of detonation, so although you lose power throughout the rev range, it is compensated by being able to run higher boost levels.

 

This does mean that off-boost the car is still down on power, so you have less low down power and torque and all your power is high up in the rev range. You also have less throttle response.

 

Great for a peak power dyno runs, drag races and even some track racing...but not so ideal for real world driving where it will suffer as you tend to use the entire rev range and spend a lot more time at lower revs.

 

Lowering the compression ratio is usually required once you start going over 20'ish psi

I used to have an omex ecu in one of my old cars with throttle bodies. You can spend thousands on management but at the end of the day it's only as good as the person who maps it.

 

I.e - you could have a monster spec ecu but give it some numpty to map and totally ruins the way the car drives.

 

imo don't go for one unless your going for huge power as legrath has said.

Or keep the Zed loom and use the AEM EMS or even a Zemulator plugged into the stock ECU. Problem with a stand alone is the extra signals required by the rest of the cars control units - these are available but will increase install time dramatically...