Thinking of getting a replacement subframe ready to fit with new bushes etc.

 

How much work is it to actually swap the subframe?

Remove exhausts, prop, diff, HICAS - what else?

Hiya Chris.

 

I think Duffer was toying with the idea of selling refurbed subframes - ie. powder-coated and supplied with all new bushes etc.

 

I think the hassle of removing / refitting of the subframe is more hassle than the cost of the bushes etc.

 

How much work is it to actually swap the subframe?

Remove exhausts, prop, diff, HICAS - what else?

Don't forget the handbrake cables!

 

Si.

you can buy the bushes on their own, we sell them at work think they are about £50 each though and you need 4.

Does anyone know if the 2+0 and the 2+2 frames are interchangable?

I reckon, and this is sticking my neck out a bit, with a two poster I could do it in 3-4 hours.

 

On the drive a weekend at a reasonable pace.

 

Wheels off

discs off

handbrake cable out

Undo shocks, track arms, top wishbones, bottom wishbones and hicas arms

undo prop and drop diff with driveshafts and hubs still connected, slide out

undo hicas ram and pipework mounting

drop subframe

 

reverse to refit

You could allways spend a couple of weeks out and stonechip the underneath and re bush everthing while you are at it.

You could allways spend a couple of weeks out and stonechip the underneath and re bush everthing while you are at it.

 

exactly what I'm doing in the next couple of weeks. There will be plenty of progress pics ut up ;)

exactly what I'm doing in the next couple of weeks. There will be plenty of progress pics ut up ;)

 

IMHO you can forget your boost controlers, larger injecters and aggresive chips, your scoops and skirts and big bore exhausts, and all the chrome bits.

 

This is the mod to do first and then your brakes and then your shocks.

 

You will feel the difference.

IMHO you can forget your boost controlers, larger injecters and aggresive chips, your scoops and skirts and big bore exhausts, and all the chrome bits.

 

This is the mod to do first and then your brakes and then your shocks.

 

You will feel the difference.

 

exactly ;)

there is also the diff oil cooler pipe work and wiring harness to disconnect

there is also the diff oil cooler pipe work and wiring harness to disconnect

 

Yes but the harness is only a couple of connecters and mine didn't have the diff cooler, clever clogs :D

Does anyone know if the 2+0 and the 2+2 frames are interchangable?

 

Yes if you want to change the diff, Prop and drive shafts to the NA set up which is a good mod for a mildly tuned Z. Otherwize no.

Yes if you want to change the diff, Prop and drive shafts to the NA set up which is a good mod for a mildly tuned Z. Otherwize no.

 

Erm.......got a bit confused there Mark! :)

 

2+0 2+2 = yes

N.A. T.T. = no

Thinking of getting a replacement subframe ready to fit with new bushes etc.

 

How much work is it to actually swap the subframe?

Remove exhausts, prop, diff, HICAS - what else?

 

I reckon it would take about 3+ hours with a ramp Chris and it would be a real ball ache to do on the drive.

Erm.......got a bit confused there Mark! :)

 

2+0 2+2 = yes

N.A. T.T. = no

 

Ignor me I'm dyslexic and I sometimes just invent want I read. The answer is Yes TT LWB to TT SWB and vice versa. :mac1:

I reckon it would take about 3+ hours with a ramp Chris and it would be a real ball ache to do on the drive.

 

Ideally you'd want to set aside a few days to work on it, as getting the subframe bushes out is extremely annoying and time consuming! And you dont want to be paying for ramp time if they are ba***rds and take ages. I would have said having ramps for this wasnt a huge improvement, can be done on the floor.

Anyone got a spare TT subframe?

Can buy or give you my old one in exchange after the swap.

Ideally you'd want to set aside a few days to work on it, as getting the subframe bushes out is extremely annoying and time consuming! And you dont want to be paying for ramp time if they are ba***rds and take ages. I would have said having ramps for this wasnt a huge improvement, can be done on the floor.

 

He was just talking about the time to swap the subfame once he has one all rebushed.

 

I've watch a few being rebushed and the Air saw and blow torch make short shrift of getting the old bushes out. Oh and a 25 ton press helps with the new ones. :rofl: :rofl:

Thanks MarkZX. I have a 2+0 TT and have been offered at 2+2 NA subframe.

 

Now I am really confused though as I have heard of people doing a TT/NA subframe swap to get the lower ratio diff.

Thanks MarkZX. I have a 2+0 TT and have been offered at 2+2 NA subframe.

 

Now I am really confused though as I have heard of people doing a TT/NA subframe swap to get the lower ratio diff.

 

You can use the NA subframe with NA diff to lower the ratio and get better accelleration and at the same time eliminate all the HICAS stuff as the NA subframe doesn't have HICAS.

You can still use the NA diff with TT subframe though.

Thanks MarkZX. I have a 2+0 TT and have been offered at 2+2 NA subframe.

 

Now I am really confused though as I have heard of people doing a TT/NA subframe swap to get the lower ratio diff.

 

You will need the N/A diff, drive shafts, hubs, toe arms and rear of prop shaft.

 

Its not just a strait forward swap as I found out, the TT diff is too big for the NA subframe.

Ahh ha. Thanks guys.

 

You are welcome to my frame Chris but freight from NZ would be a bit on the expensive side me thinks ;)

Ahh ha. Thanks guys.

 

You are welcome to my frame Chris but freight from NZ would be a bit on the expensive side me thinks ;)

 

I'll let you deliver it then! :D LOL

Thanks MarkZX. I have a 2+0 TT and have been offered at 2+2 NA subframe.

 

Now I am really confused though as I have heard of people doing a TT/NA subframe swap to get the lower ratio diff.

 

 

Yep but the TT diff is bigger than the NA diff and the TT prop is 6 stud where as the NA prop in 4 stud. So only a NA diff fits a NA subframe and Visa versa.

 

Benefits are, it makes your car accelerate quicker, but your top speed will max out at 150mph. You get rid off all the HICAS rubbish, it reduces weight, Improves handling and gives you more camber ajustment without aftermarket rear camber arms.

 

Down side is that the NA diff and prop are only rated to about 400 bhp. Thats what stopped me doing it.

 

However THE OS Giken LSD Diff cluster (about £250) will enable it to handle around 800bhp and single piece props for high power are readily available in the States for around $300. so the NA setup doesn't limit your potential power.

You will need the N/A diff, drive shafts, hubs, toe arms and rear of prop shaft.

 

Its not just a strait forward swap as I found out, the TT diff is too big for the NA subframe.

 

You need complete prop as the NA is a lighter gauge and only 4 stud. Combining the two is going to make it unbalanced.

Down side is that the NA diff and prop are only rated to about 400 bhp

 

Bugger - there goes that idea then. The other day I did a hill climb and I was thinking that a slightly lower diff ratio would have been ideal as second was a bit tall on the hairpin and third was a bit tall on the logest straight.

 

The other issue I had was a huge lack of grip :hyper:

 

so the NA setup doesn't limit your potential power

 

No ..... but the

 

OS Giken LSD Diff cluster (about £250)

 

does ;)