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WAS RUNNING - NOT PERFECTLY PRETTY LUMPY AT TIMES?

NOW CHUCKED IT & NOT STARTING (TRIES REALLY HARD THO!!

FUEL IS RUNNING AND INJECTORS ARE CLICKING BUT NO SPARK

 

PLEASE HELP !!!

I OWNED THIS CAR 4 YEARS AGO AND HAVE JUST BOUGHT HER BACK!!

THE JOYS - THE TROUBLES!! :headvswal

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Just had a look at the diagrams and have found that you should have an earth, a power and a feed from the PTU to each of the coils.

 

Pull off a connector to one of the coilpacks and with the ignition off, test for continuity between the pins and earth. One should measure with a low resistance.

 

With the ignition on, test for a voltage on one of the other pins. If this is not there, the possible causes are -

 

A dead 5 pin connector - F23

A crook ignition coil relay

A dead fusible link

 

If you tried a known PTU and CAS, the only other thing is the ECU or the wiring in between.

 

Failing all of that, drop round to Napier in New Zealand and I'll have a looksee :tongue:

loll i wish it was that easy to get there!! but what i have done is turned ignition on and with the multimeter have tested for power to the coil packs there are three wires ones earth ones 12 the other i gess is feed from ptu well with ignition on 2 wires are reading 12v and the other is earth and thats fine as well, does this mean that the ptu cas are working? last night i was messing with car and for a while there was spark on one coil pack as i had it out but when i took all plugs out and dried them tried again and there was no spark but all wires to coil pack show power!!! also it almost fired up y-day realy trtin hard but just didnt get there!

 

 

Just had a look at the diagrams and have found that you should have an earth, a power and a feed from the PTU to each of the coils.

 

Pull off a connector to one of the coilpacks and with the ignition off, test for continuity between the pins and earth. One should measure with a low resistance.

 

With the ignition on, test for a voltage on one of the other pins. If this is not there, the possible causes are -

 

A dead 5 pin connector - F23

A crook ignition coil relay

A dead fusible link

 

If you tried a known PTU and CAS, the only other thing is the ECU or the wiring in between.

 

Failing all of that, drop round to Napier in New Zealand and I'll have a looksee :tongue:

for got to mention iv tried a known good ignition relay, also where is the fuse which could be dead and whats a f23 connector? sorry for sounding dum

 

Just had a look at the diagrams and have found that you should have an earth, a power and a feed from the PTU to each of the coils.

 

Pull off a connector to one of the coilpacks and with the ignition off, test for continuity between the pins and earth. One should measure with a low resistance.

 

With the ignition on, test for a voltage on one of the other pins. If this is not there, the possible causes are -

 

A dead 5 pin connector - F23

A crook ignition coil relay

A dead fusible link

 

If you tried a known PTU and CAS, the only other thing is the ECU or the wiring in between.

 

Failing all of that, drop round to Napier in New Zealand and I'll have a looksee :tongue:

If you've got 12 volts you can rule out the connector :(

 

It's sounding like it is badly flooded. Mine did the same and it was 40 b*st*rds to get it right again. Mine turned out to be over fueling due to a mod I had done for a dual intake.

 

Pull as many plugs out that are easy (4 if I remember correctly) and give the spark gap and cone a squirt with CRC contact cleaner or something like that. Dry off and chuck your plugs back in again. Pull the connector off the MAF and try starting it with a wide open throttle.

 

I am assuming you have standard injectors otherwise the MAF trick won't work.

 

If it starts, get a bit of heat into the motor before you reconnect the MAF and it should help keep things drier.

 

Let me know how you go

hi ok ill try that so i gess with 12 volts on coils rules out ptu and cas? also i belev to leav the fuel fuse in as if that is taken out the coils dont have any power!! cheers mate for your help realy appreciate it, not many peeps on here are helpful its just one or to like your self tnx again will keep u informed

sorry but I think that comment is a bit of an insult to this forum!!!! Think you should remove it personally, what do you want people to say if they don't have the answer? :(

 

Vijay

thats true was a bit pi**ed off bout sumat else and landed it here so will take it off once i sus out how!

 

sorry but I think that comment is a bit of an insult to this forum!!!! Think you should remove it personally, what do you want people to say if they don't have the answer? :(

 

Vijay

hi mate tried what you sugested but no luck at all, but what i did find is that both 12v feeds to the coil packs read jst over 12v when ignition is on but soon as you turn the key to start to crank the car the voltage drops down to 0.16v and when u let the key go it returns to 12v!! is this right?

 

If you've got 12 volts you can rule out the connector :(

 

It's sounding like it is badly flooded. Mine did the same and it was 40 b*st*rds to get it right again. Mine turned out to be over fueling due to a mod I had done for a dual intake.

 

Pull as many plugs out that are easy (4 if I remember correctly) and give the spark gap and cone a squirt with CRC contact cleaner or something like that. Dry off and chuck your plugs back in again. Pull the connector off the MAF and try starting it with a wide open throttle.

 

I am assuming you have standard injectors otherwise the MAF trick won't work.

 

If it starts, get a bit of heat into the motor before you reconnect the MAF and it should help keep things drier.

 

Let me know how you go

yes mate they are, theres no spark on plugs and also after spending another day with the car have noticed that when the ignition is on the two 12v feeds show just over 12v but soon as i get someone to turn the key the 12v drop all the way down to 0.16! is this normal? iv been messing around with caar for over 2 weeks and realy p****d off. also how do i remove that thread? tnx

 

when you remove the plugs, are they fouled with fuel?

On the plugs to the coils you will find 2 twelve volt measurements. When you crank, one will drop down in voltage but the other should remain at battery volts (probably between 9 and 11 volts when cranking - depends on battery condition)

Can you check that this voltage remains. As for removing the thread, you can't, unless you are a member. You'll have to get an admin to remove it I guess

hi mate nah both drop down to bout 0.16!

 

 

Can you check that this voltage remains. As for removing the thread, you can't, unless you are a member. You'll have to get an admin to remove it I guess

Check the connectors beside the relay box at the front passengers side of the engine bay. It should be the bigger connector with the larger wires. You may find the pin has cooked or a bad connection from the wire to the pin.

hi yes mate they do, iv just had a mate round whos an auto electrcn and hes managed to find out that on the ignition coil relay there is no earth and when u earth it the plugs spark!!! do you know where to get wiring diagram for the relay from? he wants to know how its wired up tnx

well seems as tho my plugs could be f*ckd, we done bridge on the relay to check for spark on coils when we done that there was spark so left it bridged, so i decided to check the plugs one by one i took 4 plugs out (the easiest to get to) and tried for spark on each plug on one coil 1 plug had a strong spark one plug had week spark and 2 plugs never had spark at all!! i wasnt quite convinced at first so i tried it twice on one coil and then checked all plugs on another coil and exactly the same result! so i ges that is why it was tring to fire up and hold on to it, i gess the other two plugs are dead as well or weak spark ill have to take then out yet! im a bit upset about the plugs as they are 2 years old and aint evn covered 1000 miles they were ngk iridium ones, i find it strange that plugs just go like that! have u ever come across that? so im just going to pay smithy for a set of plat 11b ones which are supposed to be the best for the z and are made for the z, fingers crossed that it was the plugs all this time ill have to wait probs till tues-wed as bank holiday in uk, if this dont solve it i think a can of petrol and match should do the job nicly!! cheers for all your help will let you know out come.

At least you found something. The Platinums are the way to go though. Look forward to hearing from you some more.

hi mate just wanted to ask is there a big diffrence in ngk pfr6b-11b and the 11c? would i notice a lot of diffrence?

 

At least you found something. The Platinums are the way to go though. Look forward to hearing from you some more.

hi mate gess what got the beuty started put new plugs in disconnected afm then turned key and opend throtl fully took a few attempts but got it going then connected afm back revs went highr but was popin and white smoke was spluttring out got better as iv left it running still is after 30 min, but still has white smoke commin out of exhust i gess thats unburnt fuel??? first it was pass exhust smoking alot not its driver side is this norm? the main prob is that the ign coil relay isnt getting earth connection so it wouldnt trigger the relay but for now iv just earthed it to body as i need to know where that earth is comming from! can anyone help me on that?

 

so main starting prob f**ked plugs and bad earth on ign coil relay after 2 weeks of pi**sin about loll smiling now.

 

thanxs to everyone who has helped me especialy nzniggles tnx mate

hi mate have you got your car sorted? iv solved my problem! if you aint mail me and ill tell you what i did cheers

 

WAS RUNNING - NOT PERFECTLY PRETTY LUMPY AT TIMES?

NOW CHUCKED IT & NOT STARTING (TRIES REALLY HARD THO!!

FUEL IS RUNNING AND INJECTORS ARE CLICKING BUT NO SPARK

 

PLEASE HELP !!!

I OWNED THIS CAR 4 YEARS AGO AND HAVE JUST BOUGHT HER BACK!!

THE JOYS - THE TROUBLES!! :headvswal

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