When the car comes out of hibernation soon i need to replace tension rod bushes........what is prefered option new OE or aftermarket items.

 

Is there much diffrence in driveability!

 

Also is it worth buying bigger injectors [555] i have jd chip profec b etc what do you guys/gals think,been looking at cars which are similar to mine in spec and noticed cars are running 555.

 

cheers

 

Dave

hi dave

I have just had to replace mine. got the adjustable ones from smithy.Slightly more exspensive but much better than getting the bushes, then having to press the old ones out and press the new ones in.Check out smithy's site is probably your best bet.

Same here but i got them from luke. much better than bushes

Got mine from Smithy too a while back, just fitted them and they're a nice bit of kit ;)

 

Vijay

But you can just buy two new urethane bushes and fit them for loads less money

There is no one correct answer... just a range of options.

Oh and try asking those with"adjustable" suspension how many times they have adjusted it since they first fitted it?? :rolleyes:

but surely it's the fact that you can adjust them rather than how often. Once you have your suspension set up, why would you need to change it?

 

Vijay

i've gone and got myself some adjustable tension rods and upper link arms. but i did get them at a fantastic price. the new style bushes that luke sells would do the job and a lot cheaper i just likied the idea of being able to tweek the suspension back into original spec a lot easier then using oem.

but surely it's the fact that you can adjust them rather than how often. Once you have your suspension set up, why would you need to change it?

 

Aha! At least someone is thinking about this ...

 

Well consider the following statements...

 

the fact that something is adjustable doesnt neccesarily mean that it needs altering.

 

And this....

. Once you have your suspension set up, why would you need to change it?

 

Exactly my point!

Cars are set up correctly on production.

Wear and tear occurs over time. Replacing the worn item(ie the bush) restores the car to its original setting......So no need for an adjustable component.

Repacing a non adjustable component with an adjustable one is often more expensive, and then you ADD to the cost by needing to set the adjustable component at the CORRECT setting.

 

And finally...

what exactly is the steering geometry parameter that is altering when you change the length of the rod?

And how many garages etc know what the settings should be??

And if it wasnt exactly spot on what effect would it have on the cars behaviour???

 

Answers on a postcard etc...... :) :)

Aha! At least someone is thinking about this ...

 

Well consider the following statements...

 

the fact that something is adjustable doesnt neccesarily mean that it needs altering.

 

And this....

 

Exactly my point!

Cars are set up correctly on production.

Wear and tear occurs over time. Replacing the worn item(ie the bush) restores the car to its original setting......So no need for an adjustable component.

Repacing a non adjustable component with an adjustable one is often more expensive, and then you ADD to the cost by needing to set the adjustable component at the CORRECT setting.

 

And finally...

what exactly is the steering geometry parameter that is altering when you change the length of the rod?

And how many garages etc know what the settings should be??

And if it wasnt exactly spot on what effect would it have on the cars behaviour???

 

Answers on a postcard etc...... :) :)

 

Exactly :)

There are too sides though:

 

You only need adjustable arms if you have lowered the car.

 

On the other hand:

 

Some say rose-joint tension rods give better steering response.

Aha! At least someone is thinking about this ...

 

Well consider the following statements...

 

the fact that something is adjustable doesnt neccesarily mean that it needs altering.

 

And this....

 

Exactly my point!

Cars are set up correctly on production.

Wear and tear occurs over time. Replacing the worn item(ie the bush) restores the car to its original setting......So no need for an adjustable component.

Repacing a non adjustable component with an adjustable one is often more expensive, and then you ADD to the cost by needing to set the adjustable component at the CORRECT setting.

 

And finally...

what exactly is the steering geometry parameter that is altering when you change the length of the rod?

And how many garages etc know what the settings should be??

And if it wasnt exactly spot on what effect would it have on the cars behaviour???

 

Answers on a postcard etc...... :) :)

put lowering springs on and larger wheel tyre combo would also take the car suspension out of spec, so adjustable suspension would be required or shim kits. tension rods arn't the problem on this tho its generally only the upper arms BUT if you buy adjustable upper arms with bearings you are supposed to buy the adjustable rose jointed tension rods to compliment them and reduce strain on the bearings (so i am told)

FINE!!! lol

tension rods arn't the problem on this tho its generally only the upper arms BUT if you buy adjustable upper arms with bearings you are supposed to buy the adjustable rose jointed tension rods to compliment them and reduce strain on the bearings (so i am told)

 

"They say"..... "one is supposed".... "so Im told"

I could really do with some better reasons and explanations than these! :mad:

 

Some say rose-joint tension rods give better steering response.

Ah! another ..."some say"

Cmon guys I need to be better convinced :rolleyes:

 

:) :) :)

 

How about my question??? "what steering parameter is affected by altering the tension rod......."Hint"... tension isnt an acceptable answer! :cool:

"They say"..... "one is supposed".... "so Im told"

I could really do with some better reasons and explanations than these! :mad:

 

 

Ah! another ..."some say"

Cmon guys I need to be better convinced :rolleyes:

 

:) :) :)

 

How about my question??? "what steering parameter is affected by altering the tension rod......."Hint"... tension isnt an acceptable answer! :cool:

if you are on about the caster of the wheel pete that is the exact problem i am having my wheels are dragging causing inner tyre wear the upper arms are in spec. i use this to try and get my head around things.http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

btw i KNOW you know your stuff :tongue:

if you are on about the caster of the wheel pete that is the exact problem i am having my wheels are dragging causing inner tyre wear the upper arms are in spec. i use this to try and get my head around things.http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...ge.jsp?techid=4

 

Good man! :dance: :dance:

Excellent link too. :)

When the car comes out of hibernation soon i need to replace tension rod bushes........what is prefered option new OE or aftermarket items.

 

Is there much diffrence in driveability!

 

Also is it worth buying bigger injectors [555] i have jd chip profec b etc what do you guys/gals think,been looking at cars which are similar to mine in spec and noticed cars are running 555.

 

cheers

 

Dave

If running stock suspension,I would go the Poly bush route, I had the three piece kit from Luke and they press in by hand,well my hands anyway!! LOL!

Stiffened the front nicely but flexible, so avoiding the ''split lower arm'' syndrome! :)

I used the "some say" with tongue in cheek.

I agree with you on this :tongue:

Stiffened the front nicely but flexible, so avoiding the ''split lower arm'' syndrome!

 

the only reason I went for the adjustable rods was because of the damage caused to the suspension arms by the old poly bushes not because they were adjustable, when I asked around with regards to replacing the bushes again the responses were a bit vague so I took the safe option and bought adjustables from Smithy, good bit of kit and the steering/handling feels really good, cant recommend them enough..

Ive used powerflex tension rod poly bushes before and they were a pain to fit .Then i got some ARC tension rods which are superb.Becareful of cheap tension rods as they can snap or have bearing faluire avoid tension rods with grease nipples on the rose joint bearings same goes for rear upper arms and traction rods .avoid ebay id go for tein /cusco.Ive seen cheap tension rods snap in half after hitting a curb not that hard either .

Thanks people for a moment there i thought i started an argument :shock:

 

The car is running standard suspension at presant but i have a set of lowering springs [ebach] i got of a member 2 years ago and still yet to fit would this cause a prob if i go back to original type bushes??

 

Any thoughts on upgrading my injectors :confused:

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Dave if you're after running either uprated tubs or more than 14.5/15psi then you need 555's.

 

Ivan

Dave if you're after running either uprated tubs or more than 14.5/15psi then you need 555's.

 

Ivan

 

 

Ivan

 

Have standard tubs and running max 16psi, so might inveat in some

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Always better to be safe than sorry mate.

 

Ivan

i've just had some adjustable tierods and upper arms fitted by mickyb at zworx, worked out cheaper than the time taken to fit standard ones and was worth the extra money.

 

Drives an absolute treat now, much more solid under braking and much more feedback through the steering:

 

tie rods similar to this:

 

and upper arms replaced with these:

If you look at the joint, doesnt it have the afore-mentioned bad grease nipple?

Aha! At least someone is thinking about this ...

 

Well consider the following statements...

 

the fact that something is adjustable doesnt neccesarily mean that it needs altering.

 

And this....

 

Exactly my point!

Cars are set up correctly on production.

Wear and tear occurs over time. Replacing the worn item(ie the bush) restores the car to its original setting......So no need for an adjustable component.

Repacing a non adjustable component with an adjustable one is often more expensive, and then you ADD to the cost by needing to set the adjustable component at the CORRECT setting.

 

And finally...

what exactly is the steering geometry parameter that is altering when you change the length of the rod?

And how many garages etc know what the settings should be??

And if it wasnt exactly spot on what effect would it have on the cars behaviour???

 

Answers on a postcard etc...... :) :)

 

 

check my FAQ! :)

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=43972

 

you are adjusting the Caster with the length of the tension rod, increasing this angle will improve steering "feel", increasing the self centering action of the steering.

 

also if you are lowering your car, all the geometry will be thrown out, so adjustable suspension has a definate added benefit there!

 

mine handles so much better after adjusting mine, really do recommend adjustable arms!! :)

If you look at the joint, doesnt it have the afore-mentioned bad grease nipple?

 

I haven't had the wheel off to see which ones micky fitted, he definately didn't get them from luke i remember that much but i don't know who else he would have got them off.

 

I'll take some pics when i take the wheels off to clean and paint all the suspension components and hubs up