Last night my car started to refuse to go into any gears, I eventually, with brute force manged to get it working but you really have to push it very hard into any gear now. It does not crunch and does it in every gear so I dont think its the box (praying its not!!!!). I could smell clutch at the end of the journey, not badly, but I could definitely smell it. It gets slightly easier the further you drive and if you double de-clutch but its not right.

 

I had an RPS fast road clutch fitted about 1000 or so miles ago, its always been a bit stiff. I also had my gearbox oil changed about 100 miles ago. The car leaves no oil deposits on the floor when parked.

 

Are RPS clutches adjustable? Is the shifter stick itself prone to problems, its hard to tell but it 'feels' like the problem is in the gear gate rather than anything more serious but the clutch smell worried me.

 

Ideas? suggestions?

 

Thanks :(

 

This really annoys me as car is just back on road after new turbos and ten months of near undrivability, I think it hates me, as soon as I fix one thing the next thing breaks!!! :rant:

How far was the clutch pedal from the floor as it started to bite?

Its a very low biting popint, it has been since the new clutch. (had to be changed as power upgrades meant old clutch slipping badly on acceleration). Do you think the cable might need adjusting?

Cable? Its a hydraulic system ;) Sounds like you have air in the system to be honest. The increased force from the heavier diaphram springs compresses the air more and gives you less pedal. As you run the car, the air expands a bit and gives you that extra bit of release...

Yes!!! That is exactly what it feels like, if I pump the clutch pedal loads then the gear change gets a bit easier, its is worse when it sits stationary for a long time.

I was going to say about hydraulics but I admit my ignorance and was not sure if it was a hydraulic system or not. How do I fix this? Is it an easy job, can I do it myself in the dark tonight? :)

You rock!!!!!!

LOL these clutches are infamous for being a bit of a pig. Sometimes you get it first time, other times it takes several hours of faffing around to get the air out. There's 2, possibly three bleeding points on the system (series 2 had a bleed nipple on the master cylinder itself). The clutch master cylinder is the one with the smaller black cap, just inboard of the brake MC. Other bleed points are on the inner wing behind the drivers headlight (this is usually the culprit) and of course the slave cylinder itself. Not a one man job unfortunately since you need someone to pump the clutch pedal and one to undo/tighten the bleed nipple(s). Best way I've found (although incredibly messy and watch your eyes) is to back the bleed nipple off then put your thumb over the end and get someone to pump the pedal. Your thumb acts as a one way valve (fluid will squirt EVERYWHERE) and also the pressure on the nipple prevents any chance of air getting past the threads (which is a possibility with the one way valve tube over the nipple method). This is a job which just about anyone could do but be warned you will probably need a lot of patience ;)

 

HTH

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

and another thing you might have to adjust the clutch switch on the pedal and adjust the pushrod into the clutch booster to give a longer stroke with the uprated clutches as the tend to expand a fair bit when warm

It needs two of you to bleed it, like bleeding brakes! One nipple on the slave cylinder under the drivers side near the gearbox and another one on the drivers side wing under bonnet...

 

You'll need two of you to;

 

Open nipple (start under car), then, Press clutch pedal down slowly and as its nearing the floor, Tighten the nipple before the peddle reaches floor. Then let the clutch pedal come back up and repeat.

 

I would alternate the above with 2 under the car with two under the bonnet a few times on each while ensuring the resovoir topped up.....do a search on here for Bleeding clutch and you might get better advice or pics but its a two man job and a PITA!

It needs two of you to bleed it, like bleeding brakes! One nipple on the slave cylinder under the drivers side near the gearbox and another one on the drivers side wing under bonnet...

 

You'll need two of you to;

 

Open nipple (start under car), then, Press clutch pedal down slowly and as its nearing the floor, Tighten the nipple before the peddle reaches floor. Then let the clutch pedal come back up and repeat.

 

I would alternate the above with 2 under the car with two under the bonnet a few times on each while ensuring the resovoir topped up.....do a search on here for Bleeding clutch and you might get better advice or pics but its a two man job and a PITA!

 

No, you need to give the pedal full travel in order to evacuate every last possible bit from the master cylinder....

Oh my, sounds like more than I can do myself on a cold wet dark night on the drive. Will try to get some mates round at weekend!!

 

Thanks loads people, saved me going to garage and getting ripped off!!!

Can you not back bleed it, from the clutch end with a squib can?

And why the fook would there be a bleed nipple behind the headlight?

And why the fook would there be a bleed nipple behind the headlight?

 

It's to catch out the noobies, like me on the first time I did it :)

Can you not back bleed it, from the clutch end with a squib can?

Works for me everytime,even on truck clutch packs.cheap new oil can filled with fluid,and a piece of w/screen washer pipe.its easier to force the air up into the master than than force air down from it.