gents

 

i have a fully rebuilt engine with stock internals, using turbo technics stage 1 tubs with the staggerd gap seals set at 14psi

 

de cats

custom exhaust from cat back

air filter

chip from dixons

 

what bhp am i running there??

 

what would be the next step being on a budget :confused:

 

what will my tubs flow safely 16psi maybe?? is it worth going for 555 injectors with the turbo technics tubs :confused:

 

and what about intercoolers??

 

any help greatly appreceated

 

what would be the next step being on a budget :confused:

 

 

Being on a buget, there is no next step. Any gains next will cost dosh fella!

 

Could be worth taking to a rolliing road and getting it mapped propeprly and see how high you can take the boost would be a start??

 

Lightened under drive pully is worth thinking about too.

ok fellas im sure i could strech to injectors & intercoolers just want to have an idea of the best route to go

The Turbo technics Stage I's are Stock turbos with staggered seals and 360 bearings..but with stock Impellors, shaft, housings ?

 

With Larger injectors (555's) and larger SMIC's Your looking at a max of 17/18psi before they are too far out of there efficiency range from excess heat. I personally would'nt go any higher than 16/17psi, but you have to consider if the power increase of a couple of psi is worth the expense of injectors and smics.

 

You dont mention what your current suspension and brake setup is like. Money spent on decent shocks,springs,ARB's.bushes & brakes will make the car a lot faster than a power increase.

good point there about the suspention,

 

im running stock brakes & suspention, i cannot see how suspention makes your car any faster?

 

yes it will make it a lot more driveable & firm at speed which is something i should be looking into, any sugestions as to a decent set up?

 

what bhp will 16psi give me??

good point there about the suspention,

 

im running stock brakes & suspention, i cannot see how suspention makes your car any faster?

 

yes it will make it a lot more driveable & firm at speed which is something i should be looking into, any sugestions as to a decent set up?

 

what bhp will 16psi give me??

 

Faster in the real world, where there are corners and roundabouts :)

 

Without spending a fortune :

KYB AGX Shocks with Eibach springs

Whiteline/Stillen Antiroll bars

Energy Suspension Polyeurothene Bushes

 

Brakes...Stocksize I would recomend Brembo Plains with Hawk HPS pads....or if you want the biggest benefit then Skyline GTR or 350z brake setup.

IHMO decide wisely..........

 

My power train is almost identical spec to yours except perhaps for my second hand Stillen intercoolers and airguides (bought from pittsburgh breaker whilst on business trip to US) $80 :D

 

The only benefit of this upgrade (with 360 deg tubs and 1 bar boost) is that it is like running on a cool crisp morning most of the time so performance is more consistent. I could have gone for more engine power but all that huff-and-puff needs to be put down effectively.

 

As I used to race (both 2 and 4 wheels) believe me NEVER under-estimate the real world benefits of good handling just as my learned friend said earlier there are a lot better performance-per-pounds-spent things you can do before you touch that engine again:-

 

Springs, discs, dampers, anti-roll bars, wheel sizes.

Make sure you don't take a simplistic 'spending more money is better' routine. For example a lot of 'modified jap import cars are comically over-sprung and over-damped :slap: which means that even on all but the flatest, smoothest race track they would be real world slower. :confused:

 

I will put my money where my mouth is and race any coil-overed car with same spec engine with my eibach and KYB adjustables sprung car.

 

Why so confident?

The 300's suspension geometry and engineering was optimised in the days of higher profile tyres and smaller wheels when some flex was assumed to be being given by the tyre wall. Similarly (at the risk of being controversial) going bigger than 17's / 18's real-world speed will be probably be lost. I agonised over wheels and went for 17's as the optimum for handling and being able to fit a good brake upgrade. Again seriously wide rubber is Ok when its dry but do you know the point for the Z when wider actually means real-world slower (grap-and-snatchy-on-the-limit or smooth predictable letting go?)

 

To drive home my point I honestly think my best real-world perfomance upgrade for night driving was actually the HIDS !!!!!

 

So again IMHO

 

I would do:-

 

brakes (one area where technology advances can e accomodated by the car)

dampers & springs (recommend eibach & KYB adjustable's - exactly same as now dis-continued Nismo dampers and and area where you have to correct to the original chassis engineering)

Upgraded anti-roll bars

Replacement master bushing set.

 

See pic of my Z at a nice healthy speed almost flat and not grounding into the karousel........

 

Cannot tell you how many 'hot' cars were all out of shape round here because they were 'over-modified'...........

 

Choose your next moves wisely

there are some wise words there :) with the suspension mods don't forget the adjustable arms to bring everything back to spec once it's lowered.

The intercoolers will help a lot in the summer, and I would advise you go for a quick power run on a dyno to check your fuelling levels are OK. If you want a bit of cheap power, add an underdrive pulley :)

Get a set of R33 brakes, no need to spend a fortune on a big brake kit yet.