1st.

Boost gauge sitting on "0" with the key in and not on and also on tick over , slap bang in the middle. Boosts fine and drives pefectly, the gauge goes up to around 9ish when opening it up. Clocks were taken out to have rings inserted could this be something as simple as a connection being knocked or moved?

 

Was checked on datascan and no faults were found. Gave a code 55.

 

No smoke either blue/white so was told it might be a boost leak. How do i find that out and what would it cost for someone to check that for me?

 

 

2nd.

How much to repair and spray a front strosek bumper (scuffs-spiders cracks-chips), spiders cracks on the wide archs and repair a dent in the high leval spoiler and respray that in a straight black and who is best to go to?

 

 

3rd.

Air con isnt working so might just need gassing but would need someone to check that over.

 

 

4th.

How much to refurb split rim alloys and paint the centres black the same as the car?

 

 

5th.

4 wheel allignment, who is best to go to and how much would it cost please.

 

 

Thanks for any help in advance :D

Hello mate,

 

4. There's a place in Hemel that repired my wheel if you want their details

 

5. Place in Watford I have found that is deffo gonna do my car when it rolls out of the bodyshop

 

Vijay

Hello mate,

 

4. There's a place in Hemel that repired my wheel if you want their details

 

5. Place in Watford I have found that is deffo gonna do my car when it rolls out of the bodyshop

 

Vijay

 

Allright there vijay mate :)

 

Anything you have or can personnaly recomend then send it my way mate.

 

Do you know prices for both of those by any chance?

1st - easy, someone has got the vac piping around the brake booster wrong. The vac line coming from the boost guage (black box with hose coming out underneath on inner wing just infront of bonnet hinge) should go to the balance bar. Bottom vac line from the side of the plenum should go to the T-piece on the top solenoid mounted on the bulkhead beside the brake booster unit. Top one is the other :D

 

2&3 Dunno :confused:

 

4&5 Ask Vijay :D

 

:D

1st - easy, someone has got the vac piping around the brake booster wrong. The vac line coming from the boost guage (black box with hose coming out underneath on inner wing just infront of bonnet hinge) should go to the balance bar. Bottom vac line from the side of the plenum should go to the T-piece on the top solenoid mounted on the bulkhead beside the brake booster unit. Top one is the other :D

 

I have no idea what you just said :rofl: :rofl: Let alone find the bits.

 

I was with rodders today and he said he wished you didnt live so far away from southampton.

 

Is that the only reason it would be doing it?

Yep. The boost guage is picking its feed up from the under the throttle flap so see's no vacuum at idle but see's positive boost at WOT. I bet your idle isn't quite right either...

for 4 wheel alighnment if you dont mind to travel for quality then get over to

Sterling Garages, Hambridge Road, Newbury

 

they can setup standard cars and also aftermarket upper arms, tension rods, camber arms etc, there also highly experianced not YTS shit ;) also one of the mechanics use to work for nissan in the old scool days of the 300zx and knows the specs v.well

 

greg

Air-con regas & oil & clean is about £70 here in wales, but it could be condenser broken

 

really need to take the car 2b checked out

 

cheers martin

Air-con regas & oil & clean is about £70 here in wales, but it could be condenser broken

 

really need to take the car 2b checked out

 

cheers martin

 

yes i think the general price for a re-gas is anything from £70-£120

more than likely just needs a regas but a leaky condensor radiator or faulty drier is possible, but any air con tester can figure out any fault :)

Andyduff - The idle seemed fine, dropped slightly when the climate was turned off but nothing major. You dont have any pictures of the hoses i need to swap do you please :D

 

Greg- Newbury isnt that far from me mate and as you say for quality its worth travelling for so will give them a shout.

 

Martin- If the condenser was fooked would it do everything the same BUT not blow cold air? Its working fine, all buttons and its clicking in the engine bay and idle still changes when its switched on?

 

Cheers lads :bow:

If the idle changes when switched , prolly just regas/service mate

 

Cheers martin

Phew :)

 

May be a stupid question but does any air con place do them or is this worth taking to a zed place?

 

Any ideas on where to try?

Erm I'll see what I can do m8

Yep. The boost guage is picking its feed up from the under the throttle flap so see's no vacuum at idle but see's positive boost at WOT. I bet your idle isn't quite right either...

 

Idle was about 850rpm. Should be 750rpm really shouldnt it.

It was smooth, a few little bumps on idle.

 

Could that be it?

 

There is no movement at all to the left on the boost gauge on idle. Even if there was a leak I guess there would be a little bit of movement.

 

What you said sounds spot on.

 

Is it easy to plumb it into the right places? I guess they put things back wrong when they had the engine out...

An aircon guy should be able to check it out electrically if the gas is fine. If not a auto electrician or someone you know!

 

Dont think Wayne noticed, but there was a code 13 on the ECU, which I reset. Been on there for the last 3 starts. Reset it but it came back again. Checked the yellow plug and its pretty green and loose!

I'm 100% now that thats the cause!

 

Just get another Z beside it and compare hoses...

Cant take mine, its in pieces, lol!!!

TPS on datascan was at 0.12 and it should be at 0.15 ideally shouldnt it?

LH O2 sensor seemed a bit lazy too, but no error code. RH working fine.

Would the code 13 deff put it into safety boost?

 

If i could see the hoses then i should be able to swap then over.

 

One jubilee clip off....... one jubilee clip back on :rofl:

One jubilee clip off....... one jubilee clip back on :rofl:

 

Bang.....oops sorry mate......Ill be off then... :rofl:

Code 13? Temp sensor? If so yes!

 

TPS should be 0.45-0.50 volts at idle with the closed throttle switch on...

I dont think he would be too thrilled :rofl:

 

Seems like a simple enough job to do then, When two people come back straight away with the same answer then thats enough for me.

 

Air con seems easy enough, 4 wheel allignment isnt as exspensive as i thought. Just leaves that big thing needed and the paint touched up.

The switch was working properly, but hopefully if I had the right gauge on laptop it was 0.12.

 

One other thing, if you gave it a big loada throttle from idle, it would take a while to pick up, if you let off the throttle fast, it sorta wouldnt pick up at all. Could this be cause of the 0.12?

TPS on datascan was at 0.12 and it should be at 0.15 ideally shouldnt it?

 

 

Code 13? Temp sensor? If so yes!

 

TPS should be 0.45-0.50 volts at idle with the closed throttle switch on...

 

 

Thats quite a jump isnt it?

Just checked datascan set up, gauge 6 was set for throttle position sensor. I am talking about the right one arnt I ?!?!??!