Just spent four and a half hours changeing my Clutch booster OMG what a royal pain to do, I really hop I dont have to do that again, :rant:

But on the good side I no longer feel like im weight trainning while driving lol :dance:

come and do mine? lol!

 

Are the seals going in these due to the cold? As mine has gone too.

I remember fitting mine when doing the manual conversion it's a tw@t of a job.

Spent hours hanging out the door lying on my back in agony!

Took the seat out and most of the dash in the end but still a pain.

I'll do it with the seat out instead!

come and do mine? lol!

 

Are the seals going in these due to the cold? As mine has gone too.

 

 

Fit yours :rofl: you got to be joking! I couldnt be paid enough for that!! nearly got to tool throwing stage :shock:

Thanks, not looking forward to it

I can give you a number of a guy selling one if you need it

nice one mate, my email is edk83@hotmail.com if you dont wana post his phone number up on here.

 

Or pm me as i see you are subscribed! durr

sent my friend

its not much fun, the tricky bit is getting the pedal in and out past the loom at the top, but the more you do it the easier it becomes :wack: not lol

OMG atleast its not just me who had that problem out was easy, back in was a total joke lol

Nice one matey :)

if you take the top binacle of the clocks you can get to the harness to ease it out of the way to make it a little better to fit

richard

if you take the top binacle of the clocks you can get to the harness to ease it out of the way to make it a little better to fit

richard

 

yep that works well :)

right. now my car is back on the road I need to sort out the clutch booster. I started the car after putting the rad etc back in and it is the same as before. idle is poor and vaccum low. I blocked the pipe that goes to the clutch booster at the balance bar end and the car runs fine with no more leak. I now want to connect this back up and block it at the booster end to confirm the fault with the booster rather than the hoses and vac bottles. I think I can see the vac hose going through the firewall to the booster just below the clutch master cylinder. can I just pull this off and block it to confirm the system is sealed and its the booster at fault? does that hose pull off

Pay Phil at C & S Wood is the easyest way I find :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

I got my Clutch booster from Courtesey NEESON with the exchange rate it only cost £116 brand spanking.

right. now my car is back on the road I need to sort out the clutch booster. I started the car after putting the rad etc back in and it is the same as before. idle is poor and vaccum low. I blocked the pipe that goes to the clutch booster at the balance bar end and the car runs fine with no more leak. I now want to connect this back up and block it at the booster end to confirm the fault with the booster rather than the hoses and vac bottles. I think I can see the vac hose going through the firewall to the booster just below the clutch master cylinder. can I just pull this off and block it to confirm the system is sealed and its the booster at fault? does that hose pull off

 

It's a while since I did mine but I think you can just pull that pipe off and block it - You can use a piece of pipe with a big bolt in the end and a jubilee clip to seal it.

I haven't got the vac bottles on mine as it was a manual conversion and I didn't get all the parts so I tried it without the tanks.

On boost the pedal pushes back at you and there's a pulsing effect through the pedal.

I got round this by using a one way air valve and a long section of pipe coiled up to act as the vac reservoir to remove the pulsing.

correct, there should be clip there you can remove with some plyers, block it off from there, if it runs sweet then its 100% your clutch booster

 

Ta Rob

that's the plan. I already blocked it at the balance bar with a bolt etc and it runs sweet. just wanted to be sure you can easily block it at the booster to rule out the vac pipes and bottles etc