Guys,

 

had a look in the usual places and can't fnid an idiots guide to clutch fitting, twin turbo.net have a load of great guides but not for clutch fitting.

 

I understand it's one of the few routine jobs on a 300zx but my mechanic is asking if he needs any special tools. A step by step guide would be a great bonus to be able to give to read through before he starts aswell.

 

any ideas...? (my apologies if I'm being a plank and missing an obvious link or thread)

 

cheers

Must be something in the online manual.

cheers, hadn't got a link to that site

1) remove gearbox

2) replace clutch

3) refit gearbox

 

:D

 

it really is an easy job on a zed, no special tools required. done mine in around 3 hours on a ramp IIRC

 

hardest part is if the exhaust downpipe nuts are siezed, they will need warming up to remove to save shearing the stud.

Have a 3 foot 1/2 inch extension handy to remove the top bellhousing bolts.

 

http://www.ttzd.com/

 

Click on TECH in left margin and scroll down main page to clutch and flywheel replacement.

thanks, having trouble finding somewhere that will resurface the flywheel so it looks like I might have to spend some money on a lightweight one.

 

Reasons and excuses to baffle the wife with would be useful now.....

thanks, having trouble finding somewhere that will resurface the flywheel so it looks like I might have to spend some money on a lightweight one.

 

Reasons and excuses to baffle the wife with would be useful now.....

 

not replacing the flywheel now could result in expensive costs involved in having to redo the job again when it destroys the new clutch ;)

wait untill its off then mention to her that the flywheel's seriously worn (probably from a very gentle old driver riding the clutch for too long) and will need swapping or it may explode, destroying the car and killing everyone in it. then mention that you just happen to have a nice lightweight one about (dont tell her the price - it was a tenner, etc) that will go in nicely. obdviously there will be MPG and reliability improvements so it will soon pay for itself in savings on fuel.

easy.

Yeah my rps clutch was only 20quid lol shhhh!

Need to emphasize above comment.

 

You will need a long extension, preferably about three wobblies to reach the top bolts for the gearbox. You need to feed the extensions over the top of the back of the gearbox, and then find someone to position the socket onto the nut. I think it's only one of them that's a real pain.

 

Apart from that, and the exhaust studs potentially shearing, it's a relatively easy job.

i once went to look at a Z and one of the top g/box bolts was missing. funniest thing was the guy actually pointed it out to me. needless to say i walked away from that one.

Need to emphasize above comment.

 

You will need a long extension, preferably about three wobblies to reach the top bolts for the gearbox. You need to feed the extensions over the top of the back of the gearbox, and then find someone to position the socket onto the nut. I think it's only one of them that's a real pain.

 

Apart from that, and the potentially shearing, it's a relatively easy job.

 

what do you do if an exhaust studs is sheered? are they replaceable?

just sheared four out of six of mine with heat aswell yes ther are replaceable but i would bet there a bitch of a job to do with engine in

idiots guide

 

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/clutch/clutch.html

Normally drill them out and put a bolt through if they are that bad when in situ.

 

Only thing I would add regarding replacing the clutch, is that its worth dropping the flywheel and replacing the rear crank seal, especially if there is any signs of leakage.

Normally drill them out and put a bolt through if they are that bad when in situ.

 

Only thing I would add regarding replacing the clutch, is that its worth dropping the flywheel and replacing the rear crank seal, especially if there is any signs of leakage.

 

Absolutely without a doubt! Do the rear main while you're there! Just be carefull not to round any flywheel bolts - they're fairly shallow heads....

Absolutely without a doubt! Do the rear main while you're there! Just be carefull not to round any flywheel bolts - they're fairly shallow heads....

 

Correct size socket, and a knuckle bar, make sure its secure and not moving when you do it.

Air impact wrench :D Main thing is make sure that whatever you use, that its square on the bolt. Had to grind/drill far too many rounded bolts out when people have ****ed them up....

If you use quality sockets and not El Cheapo ones they should not round off, also you should loosen off without the aid of an air impact wrench as it is too violent and use a good extension bar.