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I'm stuck...

 

 

The main oven in the cooker doesn't get hot. The light on the dial and fan come one. The rest of the cooker works fine. It's NOT a timer delay that's been accidentally set on the clock. Any ideas? Do modern cookers have replacable elements?

 

 

Also...

 

the garage has lost all power - the lights and sockets have stopped working. It doesn't use the house set of trip switches - it has it's own little set in the garage powered directly from the meter box / main sealed fuse.

I've got my multimeter out and can't detect any power anywhere in the garage trip switch box. It was fine before - it just stopped working.

 

Any ideas for either?

 

 

Cheers gents! :bow:

Featured Replies

sound like element in cooker has blown, you can get replacement elements, got to take off all the side panels inside of cooker and locate which one it is though (no chrimbo lunch for you then lol)

 

pity you aint closer, i fix these all the time in the bedsits i run

  • Author
sound like element in cooker has blown, you can get replacement elements, got to take off all the side panels inside of cooker and locate which one it is though (no chrimbo lunch for you then lol)

 

pity you aint closer, i fix these all the time in the bedsits i run

 

 

Cheers mate - I'll have a look for elements now....

If it's not your element, then it'll be the control stat. The stat is the controller behind the knob, it'll have a thermocouple (SP?) that runs into the oven chamber!

 

As StellaZ has said, it's a dismantle job, you can use your multimeter to check for any resistance in the element (which there should be) if no resistance then it's fooked, if there is then it'll be the stat.

 

Either way, your Goose is cooked this side of Christmas (Metaphorically speaking that is!!) sorry bud.

 

Dave

I'm stuck...

 

 

The main oven in the cooker doesn't get hot. The light on the dial and fan come one. The rest of the cooker works fine. It's NOT a timer delay that's been accidentally set on the clock. Any ideas? Do modern cookers have replacable elements

 

 

Cheers gents! :bow:

My moneys on the element too,, if the fan was not working also I would say timer or stat.

Would be best to take the old element out first to make sure you get the right one, there are so many of them for fan ovens,, its located just in front of the fan,, insulate the wires so you can still use the rest of the cooker while you looking for a replacement. Economy Cookers may have one, they are 5 miles outside Wisbech Cambs 01553 828878 Good luck.

 

Just a thought, some cookers have an overheating sensor ie two wires coming from it, one to the element the other from the stat , usually fixed to the top or back of the oven wall,, not visable from looking inside the oven , its a safety thing that cuts off power to the element if the oven overheats, I have known these things to fail even when cold, if so you can get by with joining the two wires coming from it together.

  • Author

I've found the element and taken it out.

 

I measure about 140-170 K Ohms through it when disconnected.

 

There's a small hole in it and it looks distorted in that area.

 

Do you think the element's "gone"?

 

Thanks lads!

I've found the element and taken it out.

 

I measure about 140-170 K Ohms through it when disconnected.

 

There's a small hole in it and it looks distorted in that area.

 

Do you think the element's "gone"?

 

Thanks lads!

Gone for sure :headvswal

  • Author
Gone for sure :headvswal

 

 

Cheers - that means it's hopefully quite an easy repair - I buy a new one, plug it in and sorted... hopefully.

 

 

 

Is it possible the elements in the oven has taken out the earth leakage breaker on the garage (RCD)? I'm using words I don't really understand here!

Cheers - that means it's hopefully quite an easy repair - I buy a new one, plug it in and sorted... hopefully.

 

 

 

Is it possible the elements in the oven has taken out the earth leakage breaker on the garage (RCD)? I'm using words I don't really understand here!

 

Easy repair, as long as you get the right one, some are the same size but the distance apart from the ends (you push the wires on) are different.

 

Normally if an element like that goes it will knock out the RCD.

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