fookin give up!!

 

the other morning started car up, it was running on 5, drove to end of road it sorted itself out ran like a dream. Started car up to come home b@st@rd back on 5 and been like it since, lifted all coil pack plugs and found number 4 not firing, took coil pack off and plug out the plug was dry. Tested all injectors by listning for the click with a screw driver, no click on 4, cleaned injector connector up replaced it started car still running on 5, removed PTU and connectors cleaned them up, started car, still running on 5. So thought it must be the injector connector, replaced with a brand new 1 still bloody running on 5, also cleaned temp senser to the ECU up and disconnected battery and reset ECU........whats next any idea's, thanks

swap a injector into no 4 and see if it still does it to rule out the injector bud

swap a injector into no 4 and see if it still does it to rule out the injector bud

 

was thinking that as nxt step but was hopeing there might of been something i may of over looked before getting to involved in stripping car down

Check the ECU connector is seated properly ;)

Check the ECU connector is seated properly ;)

 

are yes didnt think of that

is there anyway to check the injector across its connections

are yes didnt think of that

are you actually getting a voltage to the injector. take it off and run a digital multimeter to it! run the engine and test it will flick a voltage up but if it shows a flutuating figure a voltage is present. if not the problem lies from the cable back if there is a voltage its the injector

are you actually getting a voltage to the injector. take it off and run a digital multimeter to it! run the engine and test it will flick a voltage up but if it shows a flutuating figure a voltage is present. if not the problem lies from the cable back if there is a voltage its the injector

 

not having a multimeter i cant check it, i guess i can use a bulb and 2 wires

try a known good PTU.

PTU won't stop the injector firing :confused:

not having a multimeter i cant check it, i guess i can use a bulb and 2 wires

 

That should work, especially if you rev it. How did you get on?

 

If the injector is not firing then it won't be the PTU, that drives the spark plugs.

 

The injectors are driven directly from the ECU so a faulty wire / pin from this would cause the problem. Other posibilities would be failed drive components (transistors, etc) or a dry joint. Try another ECU to rule these out. Make sure a pin hasn't been bent or pushed back on the ECU connector.

Well it seems it has to be the injector, put a multimeter on the injector connector and getting a reading of about 13.5v checked the connector on a known working one to see if there was any difference in volt reading, the same voltage reading so power getting to the connector ok and rules out ECU. Just to rule out it cant be the ignition side i checked coil pack connector got voltage reading of about 14.5v also checked another coil pack connector also a reading of 14.5v. So now have the lovely job of lifting the plenum to replace 1 lousy injector :( i just had an idea tho it could be possible the injector is stuck im gonna give it a short sharp :smash:

was going to say i had simular prob with my old zed , but seeing as your getting good voltage readings may not be the case , but this was how my problem started before it finaly gave up completley , i had wiring problem in loom just after ti leaves the ecu and travels to the engine bay bad corrosion green cables causing a short had to be stripped and repaired, just a thought and to add help in anyway i can , mine was intermitent to start with then stayed like it untill repaired

I had this problem and it turned out to be broken wire on the back of the ECU plug.

I had this problem and it turned out to be broken wire on the back of the ECU plug.

 

i dont think its any thing to do with the ecu as there is power at the injector connector it has to be the injector.

is the injector ticking, try a long thin bladed screwdriver on the injector with car running put it to your ear, check its making a ticking noise

is the injector ticking, try a long thin bladed screwdriver on the injector with car running put it to your ear, check its making a ticking noise

 

done that mate slight tick but not as loud as the others the slight tick i can hear could be coming from somewhere else and carrying through

The injectors are switched earth ;) ie one pin has permanent 12v on it, the other (ground) is switched by the ecu ;)

 

Get the voltmeter on BOTH pins and watch for it pulsing - easiest way is to get a spare cas and put the connector onto it, then spin the shaft :) watch for the reading on the meter pulsing ;)

Spot on Andyduff, you beat me to it. You have to measure across the injector as it is the difference in potential (voltage) that drives things.

which it was doing the voltage figure on the meter was flutuating it wasnt a steady figure it was 13.-- the .-- was the flutuating figure but the 13 stayed constant, if that makes sense

OK got you. The -- could have been a slightly bad connection with the meter due to the vibration of the engine, the meter picking up some so electrical noise, etc.

 

The best way is to measure across the faulty one and compare it to another good one on your engine.

 

It won't be an easy job, but easier than removing an injector.

OK got you. The -- could have been a slightly bad connection with the meter due to the vibration of the engine, the meter picking up some so electrical noise, etc.

 

The best way is to measure across the faulty one and compare it to another good one on your engine.

 

It won't be an easy job, but easier than removing an injector.

 

I did this across a good working injector connector and got the same flutuating reading as the connector on the non working injector. At first i put the 2 meter prongs on the wrong way and got a - reading then changed the meter prongs round to get a + reading as there is only 2 pins to the connector it can only read 1 way or the other, or no reading at all if there is no power going to the connector?

Are you sure you wired up the connector the right way round carl? ;) Sounds daft but the ones I have seen, you need to connect the thinner wire from the loom, to the thicker wire on the connector and vice versa ;)

 

Put the neg lead of your meter on a good earth (battery) then see which pin of the known working injector has 12v on it, then check if its the same pin on the dead one ;)

Are you sure you wired up the connector the right way round carl? ;) Sounds daft but the ones I have seen, you need to connect the thinner wire from the loom, to the thicker wire on the connector and vice versa ;)

 

Put the neg lead of your meter on a good earth (battery) then see which pin of the known working injector has 12v on it, then check if its the same pin on the dead one ;)

 

yes andy wired the thick wire to the thin wire and vice versa, i also replaced the connector of the injector next to the dead 1 as that looked a bit poor, wired that up the same way as the dead injector and that 1 working fine

Ok can send you an injector bud if you want to give that a try? Just put the plug on it and see if you can feel it firing :) Missing its plastic end cap but they can be bought from http://www.courtesyparts.com for a few amewican dowwar ;)

Ok can send you an injector bud if you want to give that a try? Just put the plug on it and see if you can feel it firing :) Missing its plastic end cap but they can be bought from http://www.courtesyparts.com for a few amewican dowwar ;)

 

thanks for the offer bud i can get hold of an injector no prob cant do it untill next weekend anyway now, not looking forward to stripping the plenum off prob end up needing new pcv valves too they bound to be brittle and break taking the pipes off. Or the fuel line will crack taking it off for 1 injector

 

just done ecu check and unplugged it to see if that might get injector working, no such luck lol but had code 55 at least that cheered me up no code 51 at least that tells me injector circuit ok:)