Right, having bumped into Zedworld at JAE, they had a mapped ECU for sale and he says I can safely run at 1bar boost, I use a blitz SBC to control boost.

 

So I says that I run at 1.3bar boost, at this he said this would be going backwards for me to fit this one, and that I must be running forged pistons and bigger injectors, and that my ECU must be chipped to run 1.3bar boost, otherwize I couldn't run that much boost.

 

I run 1.3 bar nicely without any det or defeating and pulls bloody strong, its way faster than others I have driven, and I've driven lots.

 

I have only had the zed fresh in from japan for 6 months and this work was obviously done there, so he says to check my chip in the ECU, he said the standard one will have a sticker with 2 lines on it, and insisted that mine didn't and that it must have had some kind of a chip to run 1.3bar.

 

At this the first thing I did when I got home was to crack open the ECU and have a butchers, the chip doesn't have a sticker on it with 2 lines, but a white sticker with the digits Z46 P60 and Z46 P608 felt penned on in red.

 

 

Does this guy from Zedworld speak the truth, anyone shed any light?

he speaks the truth!! if it's penned on, it's probably aftermarket! best to see if it's socketed (standard one's soldered)...

 

not sure i'd be running 18(?)+ PSI without knowing what internal mods had been done though!

At that boost you have passed the limits of the stock injectors !, the Intercoolers are completely innefficient and the Turbos will be too hot to produce good power.

 

You should be detting badly, Have you checked that they are all stock ?

Does this guy from Zedworld speak the truth, anyone shed any light?

 

As the guys have said, tis the truth mate. on average 1 bar is generally the rule of thumb for a Zed with stock pistons/injectors and I/C's.

Whilst you may feel the car is running great, without the above upgraded parts you must be about to mash yer rings, happened to me some years ago.

So worth checking if poss what has been done to the car and if you can't, take it to a rolling road place to get more accurate feedback of what the car is doing under load.

smithy

Ok cheers for the info, the coolers are stock, not checked the turbos yet, I believe I will get it onto some rollers to see whats what, I've also been planning to upgrade coolers soon too.

 

The chip isn't soldered, its socketed.

Stock coolers on 18psi, thats some major boost i'm very surprised you haven't holed a few pistons allready like that :eek:

my biggest worry would be the injectors, that are maxed out by 16psi and your on 18/19 psi.

 

The tubs are capable and just about efficient up to 18psi, but only really with upgraded intercoolers.

WOW how this hasn't gone bang yet is amazing.........

 

unless......

 

You said it came already chipped from japan, maybe it has upgraded injectors, forged internals etc. but stock I/C's would tell me NOT.

 

Turn it down mate before it becomes and expensive short term thrill.

 

I am runnning 15psi on stock injectors with colder plugs, stillen intercoolers and optimax religiously. I was advised by many folks that this is the max and the cold plugs and i/coolers are good security.

 

Chris

to check if the cars chipped.have a consult check done.in the fuel maps section any red boxes indicate a non standard perameter.jeff does know his onions.he discovered that my car was chipped.

Ok, you lot have scared me a little, I'm going to knock the boost down to 1bar now to be on the safe side, at least until I find out whats what and get some uprated coolers.

 

One more question, theres a twisty knob on the side of my ECU and its apparently set fully open, what is that?

It's to put the ECU in diagnostic mode

Just a little FYI:

 

The car actually runs at 1.5 bar boost with no det or defeating, unless on a really cold day (like under 4 degrees). I turned it to 1.3 bar and have had no problems.

 

The car runs cool, water temp never above 85 and the oil at a steady 100, all the time, all read through the defi gauges so I assume they are as accurate as I can get?

 

Something tells me its time to see what has actually been done to this car.........

If you're running 1.5bar (nearly 22psi) of boost then you either have a VERY highly modified car or you're doing some serious damage.

You should be getting some massive power at that kind of boost.

 

I really can't beleive it's been modified to that level if you have stock intercoolers on.

Stock turbo's and injectors will be way beyond their limits and it should be detonating like crazy. Are you sure you know what you should be listening for?

Not sure how you can check for forged internals but getting the turbo's looked at would be a start.

 

You said it runs great apart from when its cold?!

It should run much better in cool air...

 

I'd turn the boost down to a bar and get it investigated quick.

Are we sure this is 1.3 bar and not 13psi ? Is there an accurate boost gauge ?

1.3 bar as set by the blitz SBC, and showing 1.3 bar on Blitz boost guage, as mentioned above I believe the injectors max out at +1.5bar, regardless of air temp, I think it cut boost at 1.5 bar because of the injectors maxing out, then again it only did it once and it happened to be a nippy morning so I just put it down to air temp.

 

Also I reckon if It had standard internals they would have gone west a long time ago. I know what det sounds like, and theres nothing like that sound going on, just a nice engine and exhaust note.

 

I've got new brake discs to fit this weekend, so while its all jacked up I think I'll take a peek at the turbos and injectors.

Your boost won't cut because of the injectors, you will just get it running dangerousy lean.

What kind of power is the car putting out and have you got standard wheels and tyres etc?

Rough 0-60 times?

 

You should be getting something like 600bhp+ at those kind of boost levels... :rofl:

I've not had a power run done yet, I was going to fit new deeper coolers before I did that, I'm using 18" Rays VR Evolution 4 racing wheels with bridgestone rubber, 18x8 front and 18x9.5 rears.

 

I havn't yet run the car on a 1/4 mile, so dont know ET's or 0-60 times yet, but I'd guess 0-60 to be under 5 seconds easily.

Just ordered a dual fmic, with all hardpipes and new air filters complete.

Apparently it seems that you still get good airflow to the rad through these fmics as this was a concern I had, I already have a large air dam as I've got a bomex kit fitted and the bumper is well ventilated, also using a vented headlight panel, also to further assist with cooling I'm removing the sidelights and running cold air ducting hose from there to the rad, and raising the hood at the back to allow the heat to escape more freely.