had the Zed on the road for a couple of days and when driving it today, i started having problems after driving it for about 40miles, mostly on the motorway.

 

once i got to a built up area and stop-startin at the lights i was putting the auto-box into neutral, then when putting it back into drive to pull away the gearbox was sometimes staying in neutral and delaying engaging drive. occasionaly the only way to get it into drive was to stop the engine for a 30secs, restarting it then it would be ok for 10-15mins or so. the gearbox was also dropping out of drive when in slow moving traffic or stopping with it still in drive. was ok once back on the motorway on the way home, until i was almost home.

 

also getting an intermittant boost prob. the car will be driving ok, but then as i pull away from lights etc, or after being in slow moving traffic the engine isn't generating any boost at all, staying as a vacuum, so not even in safety boost. this was also coinciding with the gearbox prob on occasion.

 

please don't just say gearbox is f**ked etc, can someone please try and give an explanation.

 

sorry about length of post, but very concerned.

thanks in advance.

Pete....

can anybody help?

well until one of the techies come on:

 

have you checked your autobox fluid level - and what colour is it?

when you say stay in vacuum, does it stay to the left or does it move partially towards centre?

do an autobox diagnostic check to see if its throwing up any errors

...also search for 'autobox diagnostic' as it throws up some useful threads with some pointers

Also check/clean the tps connectors-2 on an auto,mine did all sorts of funny things!-connectors were green!! ;)

Does your gearbox grind or make any noise? Does your o/drive make any difference?

Dont know if this will help any ! Copied from an earlier thread.

 

 

 

Diagnostics –Auto gearbox (Series I and Series II)

 

· Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature

· Turn ignition off

· Set overdrive switch 'on' position

· Move selector lever to 'Park'

· Turn ignition on, but do not start engine

· The A/T light should come on for 2 seconds (if not, there is a fault with either the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kick-down switch or idle switch)

· Turn ignition off

· Move selector lever to 'Drive'

· Set overdrive switch to 'off'

· Turn ignition on, wait more than 2 seconds

· Move gear lever to '2'

· Set overdrive switch to 'on'

· Move gear lever to '1'

· Set overdrive switch to 'off'

· Press accelerator fully and release it

· Check A/T lamp which should now blink once for 2 seconds followed by 10 short flickers 1 second apart, pause then start with the 2 second blink again

 

If all short blinks are the same then no error has been detected.

If one blink is longer then the rest, count which blink is longer and it indicates which component is malfunctioning: -

 

1st blink - Revolution sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

2nd blink - Speed sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

3rd blink - Throttle sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

4th blink - Shift solenoid A circuit is short-circuited or disconnected

5th blink - Shift solenoid B circuit is short-circuited or disconnected

6th blink - Overrun clutch solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

7th blink - Lock-up solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

8th blink - Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged

9th blink - Engine revolution sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

10th blink - Line pressure solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

 

If the light gives 1 continuous 1 second blinks with 1 second gaps then one of the following faults is present: -

· Batter power is low

· Battery has been disconnected for a long time

· Battery is connected conversely (when reconnecting A/T control unit connectors – this is not a problem)

 

If the A/T light does not come on then the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or A/T control unit is damaged

 

 

Good luck,

 

Alan...........

i have done the diagnostics test tonight, this was all ok.

 

checked the transmission fluid and it now has a slight hint of bbq flavour, and is a light shade of brown :confused: .

its possible it may have been overfilled, will this give same symtoms as being underfilled?

 

so first thing is to change AT fluid and filter.

 

when starting the car there is now a loud buzzing noise (sound like a dodgy electric motor) coming from the back of the engine, prob from transmission, this lasts for about 5mins, then quietens. this happens when engine is both hot and cold, even if i shut engine off and restart it immediately.

 

before this happened yesturday the car was driving fantastic, it has only done 300miles since i picked it up (i'm first uk owner), and i've been driving it off boost almost all of the time, only put foot to floor a couple of times, with the engine fully warmed up, and it went like a rocket :D . there's been no hint of safety boost.

Try disconnecting the battery for an hour and see if it resets the ECM.

 

Make sure you know the code for the Stereo if there is one !!

 

As Manta says, check the TPS.

 

Fluid and filter change is not a big job. Hardest part is getting it up in the air to work on.

 

Shoot me down if this is too obvious, but when you check the fluid level in the box, you are doing it warm, level ground and shifting through all the gears first, ending in Park ?? Amazing the amount of folks that just dip it cold !

 

Sorry if this sounds condesending, aint meant to be. ;)

 

 

 

Alan......

Also check/clean the tps connectors-2 on an auto,mine did all sorts of funny things!-connectors were green!! ;)

 

i take it TPS is Throttle Posistion Sensor??

 

i've not been able to warm the gearbox properly because of it slipping. when i checked the level cold it was well above the hot mark. i was able to warm the box a little, but the oil level was the same, it was where the cable meets the metal bit on the dipstick

i did run it through the gears checked level with engine running, both in park and neutral.

i have done the diagnostics test tonight, this was all ok.

 

checked the transmission fluid and it now has a slight hint of bbq flavour, and is a light shade of brown :confused: .

its possible it may have been overfilled, will this give same symtoms as being underfilled?

 

so first thing is to change AT fluid and filter.

 

when starting the car there is now a loud buzzing noise (sound like a dodgy electric motor) coming from the back of the engine, prob from transmission, this lasts for about 5mins, then quietens. this happens when engine is both hot and cold, even if i shut engine off and restart it immediately.

 

before this happened yesturday the car was driving fantastic, it has only done 300miles since i picked it up (i'm first uk owner), and i've been driving it off boost almost all of the time, only put foot to floor a couple of times, with the engine fully warmed up, and it went like a rocket :D . there's been no hint of safety boost.

if your box oil is brown then your box is on the way out.when the brake bands brake up the burning discolours the oil.time for a manual conversion.

Is the oil level on top the metal part of dipstick when the car is running in neutral and cold ?

Is the oil level on top the metal part of dipstick when the car is running in neutral and cold ?

 

yes and same in park, both with engine running and shut off.

 

going to change the oil and filter for now, then get saving up. wheres best place to get the filter?

TBH, theres not a lot in the filter.

I removed mine, gave it a good clean in some petrol, and then a blow out with an airline. Make sure you put the wee "O" ring back on the top of the pipe. Give the sump pan a good clean out and put it all back together.

 

Alan........

the filter is internal in the box.youll have to drop the sump on the gearbox to get to it.i wouldnt waste my time.brown oil and losing drive all points to one thing.ring an auto transmission specialist.my dads box kept slipping so i converted it.time to get your wallet out.

the oil will show up well above the hot mark,when cold due to the fact the oil has not got around the gearbox you can still run the car up to temp then test the dipstick,if the oil has gone a dark colour then it may well be on its way out,but it could also carry on for a few thousand miles with little problems,drain the oil out and refil with dextron iii ATF in other words,if gearchanges are still impossible,then i would be looking at a rebuild or man conversion

 

as for boost problems perhaps because the gearbox is not engaging properly then its delaying the power making it feel like its permantly of boost

thanks greg

 

where do i get dextron iii ATF from, just any motor factors or halfrauds?

 

will start saving for a manual conversion i think. what sort of price can i expect to pay and what sort of power will the manual box hold?

I went and had a chat with Zed World today, they've advised me that the filter and pick-up is blocked. was told to drop oil, clean filter out and refill again.

 

I went to my local motor-factors [conveniently across the road from my house :dance:] and they are doing Dextron 3 £20 for 5ltrs.

 

I was also advised by Zed World the box probably won't last beyond 6mths, so will be saving for a manual conversion then.