Drive the car gently until engine has reached normal temp. The first time I "boot it" the clutch seems to slip under boost. After that it's fine.

 

Clutch bites at about 3/4 up. No problem with hill-starts.

 

Is this the first sign that i'm gonna have to throw even more money at the damn thing!!!? Would it save some labour if I have the prop shaft centre bearing done at the same time, cause that's on its way out too...?

 

Thanks guys :bow:

It sounds like you might have oil saturation and the first time the clutch slips it burns it off and is then fine. look under car and see if there is any oil around the bottom of the bellhousing ! Its basically the same as the box will have to come out to sort anyway just a couple of extra quid for seals at the same time.

Thanks :)

It is leaving little oil puddles but only very small ones. Pretty sure it's engine oil tho.

Is that engine oil getting into the box? or engine or gearbox oil getting into the clutch?

Is it terminal or do I have a few thousand miles left? I figure if it'll last a while longer it would give me time to save for an upgraded clutch.

I changed the gearbox and diff oil about 2 months ago but ive only done about 200 miles since.

When I had my clutch done the rear engine crank seal was leaking. Had it changed.

My bite point was high as well and when I had a new one it was really low.

 

Put it in fourth gear and boot it. That will show if its worn or not.

Thanks :)

It is leaving little oil puddles but only very small ones. Pretty sure it's engine oil tho.

Is that engine oil getting into the box? or engine or gearbox oil getting into the clutch?

Is it terminal or do I have a few thousand miles left? I figure if it'll last a while longer it would give me time to save for an upgraded clutch.

I changed the gearbox and diff oil about 2 months ago but ive only done about 200 miles since.

 

could last forever but could also give up next time you drive it.

 

Yes it might save a bit of cash doing centre bearing at the same time as it does have to come down anyway but only if its needed ? there not that hard to do after.

Yes it's been vibrating since i got the car. So it looks like i'm going to need someone to drop the gearbox and prop, replace the clutch (with an upgrade) renew the GB seals, replace the prob centre bearing. Sorry to be a bit ignorant but will the diff need dropping also as I need all new bushes on the rear suspension (knocking) and maybe new Hicas arms (back-end is unstable depite having TEIN adjustables all round). Trying to get everything done in one go. Looks like I got myself a real lemon, didn't I!!!

 

Not much change from a grand :headvswal

Diff doesnt have to dropped but the rest yes lol Probably not alot of change nooo sorry

stick it in second from sand still pull away without dumping the clutch harder than normal yourll know if clucth because engine reves hiher whilst car trys to catch up and poss rubber fire smell deff, if really want know tow somethink it will stink if about to give up the ghost,

engine oil will leak past the rear main seal,which in turn can cause clutch judder and slipping,the 300zx stock clutch with general wear and a boost increase will die very quickly,new rps sport will sort that,might be worth getting the flywheel skimmed whist she is out!

checklist

rear main seal

release bearing

needle bearing

clutch cover and drive plate

check and replace g.box oil whilst box is out ;)

check centre bearing replace if nes!

 

rps sport clutch will come with new needle bearing,release bearing,clutch and alignment tool and stickers :D