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Featured Replies

is it ac or dc youre measuring?

The fluke should have 2 different settings for each., Which model fluke is it?

  • Author

can someone please expline how to do this as not to sure of where some part are and relays which part????etc..

 

Side light power supply fault IS the problem. To prove it run a tempory 12v cable to one of the front side lights or dip beam relay ( coil connection) this will make the rear and dash lights workalso , also it will back feed to the dip beam relay and they will work ok then.

 

What I think is throwing you is the way in which Nissan wired the lights, it is not a conventional method of permanant earths with switched live to the bulbs, when the side lights are switched on that also powers the live side of the dip beam relays and the live of the dip bulbs, when the dip beam is switched on earth is applied to the dip beam relay and then they come on, that is why when there is no live to the dip beam relay ( ie side light supply fault ) contact that would normaly be open in the dip beam relay are closed so it energises the main beam relays, as I mentioned before, Nissan did this so you would have emergency front lighting when a fuse has blown.

 

A few moments with a good test meter should find this quite quickly, appreciate you are frustrated by it,maybe take it to an auto electrician close to you, should be a breeze for them to sort it.

 

Daveman

If the fuse has voltage its got a feed if the fuse is blown it will only have a feed on one side. I think ur fuse is on the top row third from the left. when you turn the lights on it should have a feed.

g60cc,

 

When checking a power circuit on your car you need your test meter set to 12v to 20v D.C.

 

To check the power supply to the side light fuse (third from left top row drivers footwell) remove the fuse, then with the meter set on the correct voltage, connect one lead to the earth of the car and then with the other lead/ probe test both side of where the fuse was fitted, one side should be the battery 12v supply and the other is to the light switch assembly.

 

 

Lets assume there is no power is shown, then that means there is a circuit fault behind the fuseboard and to fix it correctly means removal of the board with the battery disconnected.

 

If power is available on one side of where the fuse fits then refit the fuse and try again with the meter but this time inserting the meter prob into the fuse to check a real circuit is across the fuse, if power is not there on one side the fuse has blown,this can be an almost unseeable amount, replace fuse and test again.

 

Assuming power is across the fuse but the lights still do not work, then remove the light switch from the right hand pod, with the lights off check for any power supply on the bottom connector, assuming power is not available then a break is apparent between the fuse and switch, if power is there switch on the side lights, check for any 12v outputs on the switch if there are non then the switch is faulty.

 

As a further test connect a tempory cable from the live of the battery using an inline fuse for safety to one of the side lights built into the front lamp assembly in the bumper, ensure you connect it to the live side of the bulb/cable, a backfeed will now power up all side lights front and rear, this will at least show that part of the circuit is intact.

 

Having said all of that I still contend that it will be a power supply fault or switch fault.

 

Have fun, if you get stuck ask again.

 

Daveman

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