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My brakes have been squeeking for a while now and its been driving me mad sounding like a push bike every time i come to the traffic lights. :mad:

 

People were staring so thought i'd take the opportunity to take the pads and backers out, give em a good coat of copper grease and pop them in again. Nice simple task only by accident unbolted the 4 bolts holding the caliper together making a nice puddle of brake fluid then found after putting that back together that there was no need to take the caliper off like every other car i've had just take the retaining pins out. doh! :headvswal

 

1 hour one side, 10 mins the other only now there's a load of bl**dy air in the system and i have no brakes so have to go source some tubing and take each of my wheels of using the standard jack as my big jack is still in a mates garage in bedford :( :headvswal

 

There goes the day..... :headvswal

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thats some back luck fella. If you'd read the manual you'd have seen the huge warning saying to not undo those bolts under any circumstances. Have fun bleeding them! :eek:

Dont you just hate days like that?

I will be replacing pads and discs one day, does anybody have pictures of the retaining pins or a link to how to it without fookin up please??

  • Author
I will be replacing pads and discs one day, does anybody have pictures of the retaining pins or a link to how to it without fookin up please??

 

Dead simple (when you've fooked it up once)

 

1. Take the top off the brake resevoir (engine bay)

2. Remove the inspection plate with a screwdriver careful not to bend it). There's two screw heads either side of the brake caliper. At the back is a spring, the ends go through the tips of the screws headed pins. Gently pull these out and remove the spring from the caliper.

3. Draw the screws headed pins out

4. Place some sort of lever (i used a screwdriver gently) to lever the brake pads back pushing the rams in to loosen the pads.

5. Use said screwdriver in the end wide holes to slowly work the pads out a bit at a time, there should be 2 plates (outside solid plate, slatted vent plate) wrapped round the brake pads and a securing clip at one end.

6. The same applies to both pads just remember to replace the clips (i smeared a load of copper grease between each layer to eliminate the squeeking)

7. You may need to open up the calipers a little more to get them back in if they're fresh pads

8. Pop them in either side and line up the holes with the pins and pop the pins back in (i also greased the pins with copper grease)

9. Replace the pins in the reversal of removing them and replace the inspection cover clip (i also put a little grease on the parts where the plate touched the pad)

10. Replace cap on brake resevoir

11. Done!

 

If only i'd known that before i fooked up me brakes :headvswal

  • Author
thats some back luck fella. If you'd read the manual you'd have seen the huge warning saying to not undo those bolts under any circumstances. Have fun bleeding them! :eek:

 

Yep forgot to do it until i'd done it doh! And it does say in big letters do not undo :D I'm not good at reading manuals :D

  • Author

...the list continues, so after finishing bleeding all the brakes and taking the pads out and removing all the excess copper grease...

 

AND INCIDENTALLY IT DOESNT EFFING SQUEAK ANY MORE YAYAYAYAYAY!!!! 6 months, 4 new pads and the discs skimmed, even that didn't sort it and its now done yay! :hyper: :dance:

 

...um carrying on, thought i might as well give everything else the once over while i was at it. NOW...

 

Every week i've checked the coolant in the radiator and its been below the fins, so topped it up, waited 30 secs, its stayed steady then the next week the same thing.

 

The heater has been taking ages to heat up since about december, turns out my engine's been running with no coolant for about 2 months maybe more, no problem with the temperature so i haven't given it a second thought.

 

Anyway, finally after about 4 litres of water, all the foam came up and disapeared and its now holding its level.

 

So blooming lucky it hadn't blown the head gasket first!

 

So my advice, if your topping yours up every week just fill it, take it for a short run, squeeze the main pipe coming out the cylinder head and keep doing it till it stops going down!

 

Heater now works within 5 mins rather than 10-15mins!

 

What a day!!! :headvswal I need a drink now :duffer:

...the list continues, so after finishing bleeding all the brakes and taking the pads out and removing all the excess copper grease...

 

AND INCIDENTALLY IT DOESNT EFFING SQUEAK ANY MORE YAYAYAYAYAY!!!! 6 months, 4 new pads and the discs skimmed, even that didn't sort it and its now done yay! :hyper: :dance:

 

...um carrying on, thought i might as well give everything else the once over while i was at it. NOW...

 

Every week i've checked the coolant in the radiator and its been below the fins, so topped it up, waited 30 secs, its stayed steady then the next week the same thing.

 

The heater has been taking ages to heat up since about december, turns out my engine's been running with no coolant for about 2 months maybe more, no problem with the temperature so i haven't given it a second thought.

 

Anyway, finally after about 4 litres of water, all the foam came up and disapeared and its now holding its level.

 

So blooming lucky it hadn't blown the head gasket first!

 

So my advice, if your topping yours up every week just fill it, take it for a short run, squeeze the main pipe coming out the cylinder head and keep doing it till it stops going down!

 

Heater now works within 5 mins rather than 10-15mins!

 

What a day!!! :headvswal I need a drink now :duffer:

 

 

 

Glad you sorted it! now relax and have a cool refreshing alcoholic bevarage!! :duffer: :duffer: :duffer: :duffer: :duffer: :dance:

I was told at tech "many years ago I may add".. Not to push fluid back up into the master cylinder against the seals but crack the pipe open and refill after. I've replaced every brake pipe on my car so not taking any chances. :)

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