I just took the Z out for a drive and noticed it was very rumbly and growly and every time I dropped down a gear it was popping and gurgling?? Also I noticed it hesitated before it shot off, like when I put my foot down on the accelerator there was a hesitation before launching forward?? I stopped off at a mates for a while then when I got back into the Z and started it it started then died, I tried starting it a few times and nothing apart from a strong smell of petrol then it started fine?? But the fumes coming out of the zorsts where very rich of petrol. I checked my new braided fuel lines to see if they wher leaking but no smell of petrol around them at all. It was gurgling and popping all the way home with the slight hesitence when I put my foot down?? Can anybody suggest what could be wrong?? Cheers guys :duffer:

Cts?

Is that cats abrieviated?? if so it's been de catted mate.

Coolant Temp Sensor

Run a ecu check and see what pops up

could be down on a cylinder hence the rumbling/hesitation

could be down on a cylinder hence the rumbling/hesitation

what does this mean and what vcan be done to test or cure the prob as mine does this occaisionally

When mine dropped a cylinder it was really noticeable

when your car is idleing check your coil pack connections

if they are all ok then try removing one and you will spot straight away what a dropped cylinder sounds like

what does this mean and what vcan be done to test or cure the prob as mine does this occaisionally

easy test pull each coilpack plug out 1 by 1 with car running,when you pull the plug out you should hear the car hesitate as if its going to stall,if it doesent then you can safely say that cylinder isent fireing correctly

 

when you find the cylinder that is down,use a spare coilpack and sparkplug fit conector on that cylinder plug and earth it to engine get someone to turn car over and check for spark,if your getting spark then you can rule out the connector,to save yourself time remove the coilpack and replace with the known working one

check spark plug aswell

 

now clean the injector harness plug and injector connector with electrical cleaner with a wire brush until both terminals are clean and refit using the wire clip to hold it in place making sure its connected properly! retest 90% of the time its dirty injector plug/s that cause problems

 

now retest and check cylinder is fireing using the 1st point!

 

if not

 

its either going to be to replace injector plug and harness on that cylinder

or at worse leaking injector o-ring or injector insulator,which is plenum removal,but as said likely to be the above,besides commonly you would have strong fuel smell where the injector is leaking,and smoke from the exhaust of unburnt fuel

 

remember dont fix what aint broke,if this is a very rare occurance then just do a general cleanup of the injectors as they go corroded and dirty over time,and dont work correctly

 

HTH greg

I have replaced all the plugs when I did the service, do you now have a link for removing and cleaning the injectors mate??

I have replaced all the plugs when I did the service, do you now have a link for removing and cleaning the injectors mate??

cant find one,but its simple enoughthey are situated behind the colipacks you will see the leads going to them,undo wire clip,dont break plug connector and clean them,back 2 are fiddly to get to then refit placing the wire clips back on and secure properly

 

heres a link to some helpful hesitation tips

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html

Cheers bud, what is written is exactly what I am suffering: The problem I had was with my 1990 NA, which had mysteriously developed a deep hesitation whenever the car moved off from rest. The engine would idle perfectly, but as soon as you put your foot on the gas pedal, the revs would drop from 800 to about 500 rpm, then slowly build back up then from 1000 rpm everything would be fine. Whenever you took off from rest, the harder you jumped on the gas pedal the deeper and longer the hesitation. At higher revs the engine seemed to be a slightly down on power. Thinking the problem was related to vacuum, fuel delivery and improper fuel air ratio, I spent a lot of time looking at things in this area, but how completely wrong I was.

easy test pull each coilpack plug out 1 by 1 with car running,when you pull the plug out you should hear the car hesitate as if its going to stall,if it doesent then you can safely say that cylinder isent fireing correctly

 

when you find the cylinder that is down,use a spare coilpack and sparkplug fit conector on that cylinder plug and earth it to engine get someone to turn car over and check for spark,if your getting spark then you can rule out the connector,to save yourself time remove the coilpack and replace with the known working one

check spark plug aswell

 

now clean the injector harness plug and injector connector with electrical cleaner with a wire brush until both terminals are clean and refit using the wire clip to hold it in place making sure its connected properly! retest 90% of the time its dirty injector plug/s that cause problems

 

now retest and check cylinder is fireing using the 1st point!

 

if not

 

its either going to be to replace injector plug and harness on that cylinder

or at worse leaking injector o-ring or injector insulator,which is plenum removal,but as said likely to be the above,besides commonly you would have strong fuel smell where the injector is leaking,and smoke from the exhaust of unburnt fuel

 

remember dont fix what aint broke,if this is a very rare occurance then just do a general cleanup of the injectors as they go corroded and dirty over time,and dont work correctly

 

HTH greg

cheers bud, will ahev a good clean up at the weekend :smash:

Where is the "Idle Screw" they talk about situated mate??

Where is the "Idle Screw" they talk about situated mate??

 

pic is showing LHD car but its by the battery just behind balance bar its part of the IAA unit green dot is screw