I am running out of ideas, i think my car is running in safety boost mode as it wont go above 5 psi ? , I have a code 55, so all is clear, i have reset the ecu again today but still no joy, 5psi?.

I have checked the det sensor and there was nothing wrong with it, but to be on the safe side i done the resistor trick, still only 5 psi. I have disconnected the waste gate control solenoids, still no good, i have checked the engine water temp sensor and that works (fan works on/off with temp rise and fall).

I made a pressure tester to blow up my engine, no leaks anywere so i'm running out of ideas as what to check next?????

So has anyone got any ideas .

 

HELP :wack:

I got one mate...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Its RED :tongue:

Sorry baz...I havn't the foggiest

Wish i could help

but alas

all im good for is a bit of good oldfashioned Whoreing :slap:

Air flow meter dodgy connection? Might be worth a try

see ;)

I dont even know how the wastegate works....

is there any kinda spring on them thats fooked or is it just air/solenoid controlled?

Hows this....

 

Have you tried switching chips? :confused:

Switching chips ought not make any difference - by the sound of it it's one of three things (since you've ruled out most everything else)..

 

Either the BCSVs (wastegate solenoids) aren't working - they should actually work to *raise* the boost to it's proper level when the ECU connects them to ground (check they have a permenant 12v supply, and that they are grounded via the ECU when off idle and the engine is warmed up). The fact that nothing changed (i.e. the boost level didn't drop) when you disconnected them would imply that they're doing nothing..

 

*or* the wastegate actuators have gotten 'tired' with age - there's a spring inside them that works to counteract the air pressure applied via the vacuum hose. Once the air pressure applied is more than the spring pressure on the internal diaphram they push open the wastegate inside the turbo. If the spring gets weak then they will open earlier, and thus you'll make less boost - if they get *really* tired, then you can get to the stage that no matter how much boost you bleed off/block via boost jets or bleed valves, you can never increase the boost.. (Had this on my R5GTT years ago, no matter what the bleed valve was set to, enough air pressure reached the tired actuator to open it at 15psi regardless).

 

*or* one/both of your turbos are physically tired and incapable of producing enough boost to reach over 5psi (if one had siezed entirely you'd end up with 0psi of boost)..

 

That's assuming there's no boost leak hiding somewhere really hard to find of course.

Booody el, looks who's turned up :D

 

Next thing Craig might put a post up, and god forbid Warren and Senna may have something to say :headvswal

:p

i,m now getting in more of a muckin fuddle, i thought that if you dissconnected the waste gate solenoid connectors it helps you to get boost?

but what you are saying is the opposite, so when i use the go faster peddle there should be 12v @ the connectors feeding the waste gate valves (the black ones each side of the plenium),i will check that tomorrow.

I cant see that both tubs have gone west at the same time or the actuators as well, cos one day the car was perfect and the next day only 5psi.

Has it been known for the ecu to pack up and cause the same probs, or is there a fuse link that controls that side of things???

 

Thanks

Good to have ya back mate :D

i,m now getting in more of a muckin fuddle, i thought that if you dissconnected the waste gate solenoid connectors it helps you to get boost?

 

In a stock setup, yep - I'm assuming you're just running boost jets to get 14psi? (According to your garage page)

 

But yep - with the solenoids 'off' (their natural position unless the ECU specifically says otherwise) they are closed, letting all of the air from the vacuum hose go to the actuator.

 

If they are switched 'on' by the ECU, they bleed a little air off back into the low pressure side of the intake system, thus raising the boost ~2.5psi or so.

 

but what you are saying is the opposite, so when i use the go faster peddle there should be 12v @ the connectors feeding the waste gate valves (the black ones each side of the plenium),i will check that tomorrow.

 

There should *always* be 12v on one side of the plug - it's basically connected straight to the battery (well, via the ignition circuit). The negative (or earth) side of the plug is then wired via the ECU - the ECU completes the circuit (to earth) to turn the BCSVs on - worth checking that circuit, or even try hooking them direct to earth (the chassis) on the -ve side of the plug to turn them 'on' permenantly to check.

 

I cant see that both tubs have gone west at the same time or the actuators as well, cos one day the car was perfect and the next day only 5psi.

 

If you were hitting 14psi and then only 5psi.. I wonder if only one has gone really lazy, and the other is still running at full whack to try and make up for it.. could be.

 

Has it been known for the ecu to pack up and cause the same probs, or is there a fuse link that controls that side of things???

 

It's not impossible for the ECU to go pop and no longer be able to shunt the BCSVs to earth, but even so you'd only see a 2psi drop in boost or thereabouts..

 

So it's kinda looking more like there's a more serious issue somewhere - I hadn't noticed until just now that you were down as running 14psi.. That's a 9psi drop - quite hefty, too hefty (IMHO) to be down to the BCSVs or ECU alone, you'd have to be losing boost somewhere else - either through a boost leak, lazy actuators or a lazy turbo..

hi mark, i made the boost leak detector, it works a dream m8, but no leaks to blame the fault on...bugger...am running out of things to check m8, cos i know the tubs are ok, it was only 3 weeks ago i was spinning them around in my hands, it might be the connectors to the waste gate valves.

But did you say that you have dissconnected yours, and your boost was fine?

fook me aron u can type fast LOL

That was my first impression...big boost leak somewere, but only a small one at the back of the balance bar, but i have replaced that pipe now so no leaks that i can hear, and i would av thought that it would be a big leak to lose that much pressure?

hi mark, i made the boost leak detector, it works a dream m8, but no leaks to blame the fault on...bugger...am running out of things to check m8, cos i know the tubs are ok, it was only 3 weeks ago i was spinning them around in my hands, it might be the connectors to the waste gate valves.

But did you say that you have dissconnected yours, and your boost was fine?

 

 

Yes mate, but I have an aftermarket boost controller, try disconnecting them and see what happens it could be the dreaded zed faulty connections again :(

 

Are you sure both turbos are still spinning?

hi mark, i made the boost leak detector, it works a dream m8, but no leaks to blame the fault on...bugger...am running out of things to check m8, cos i know the tubs are ok, it was only 3 weeks ago i was spinning them around in my hands, it might be the connectors to the waste gate valves.

But did you say that you have dissconnected yours, and your boost was fine?

 

 

From saying you had the turbos spining in your hands, I presume you had the engine out :)

 

It is common for the stock oil feed pipes to become blocked and or kinked when replacing the turbos, another thing to consider?

fook me aron u can type fast LOL

 

Lol, sign of a wasted youth, or something :) (Well, very sad one anyway :rofl: )

 

If there's no boost leak anywhere, then it's really starting to sound not good at all..

 

Have you got any way of applying a measured amount of air pressure to the actuator hoses and seeing at what pressure they open? Kinda tricky given where they are on our cars, mind, but from memory might be possible from underneath..

 

I think we've almost certainly ruled out anything electronic as the cause though, so it's looking mechanical :(

just a thought...are your cats ok if you have them?..

aaronjb, you are god???? i checked the solonoid connector feed cable (from ECU) and i didnt have a ground at all, BUT I DID HAVE THE 12 VOLTS? so i cut the ground cable and connected it to a good earth ......and bobs your aunty, it works, i'm back to 14 psi. Now the question is do i leave it wired to the ground, or do i run a new cable back to the ecu? Wot do you recomend m8, also were can i find the diagram for the ecu numbering and identification, i have tried the search, but cant find it ?

 

Hi pat, i dont have any m8, got stainless decats and divorced down pipes, and thanks for that part the other day m8, sorted the warning light out :hyper:

 

Thanks

does this help baz

sorry baz this might be better

brill m8, that helps a lot, will call u l8r 2nite, r u going out?

prob not, have u not got the manual on cd then?

I did 8yrs ago, wen i had my first 300, but dont know were it is now