Will be fitting a new clutch and litened fly wheel next week :hyper: is there any thing i need to no before attempting this OR DO I JUST UNDO EVERYTHING I SEE :D

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Will be fitting a new clutch and litened fly wheel next week :hyper: is there any thing i need to no before attempting this OR DO I JUST UNDO EVERYTHING I SEE :D

 

Cheers

 

Dave

obviously remove exhaust tubes from centre section up to turbos

 

make sure you mark prop shaft with tipex or similar so you dont throw the balance out when you re-fit! 4bolts you will need rear wheels of the ground to turn the prop to accsess the top 2

 

remove all the nessecary bolts to the bell housing 8 IIRC the 4 at the bottom are straightforward but to reach the top 4 with engine in! id recomend 3feet of extensions and reach through from back of gearbox to the top bit fiddly but do able, disconnect gear lever 1 bolt,remove starter motor and looms,remember to dissconect battery first

 

id fit new rear main seal whilst your at it makes sense to anyhow

 

this is very vague so dont go of what im saying,without it infront of me i cant quite remember every bolt etc :D

obviously remove exhaust tubes from centre section up to turbos

 

make sure you mark prop shaft with tipex or similar so you dont throw the balance out when you re-fit! 4bolts you will need rear wheels of the ground to turn the prop to accsess the top 2

 

remove all the nessecary bolts to the bell housing 8 IIRC the 4 at the bottom are straightforward but to reach the top 4 with engine in! id recomend 3feet of extensions and reach through from back of gearbox to the top bit fiddly but do able, disconnect gear lever 1 bolt,remove starter motor and looms,remember to dissconect battery first

 

id fit new rear main seal whilst your at it makes sense to anyhow

 

this is very vague so dont go of what im saying,without it infront of me i cant quite remember every bolt etc :D

 

 

Thanks Greg i have the usual propshaft vibration is it rec to replace the worn items aswell.and were could i get them

 

Dave

MTL recently fitted these bits for me with a little help from myself (not although I am much help really!) Thanks again for that Matt! :bow:

 

Basically as Greg says really although to save disturbing the gaskets on the exhaust and to give you some more room I would remove the whole exhaust as it gives you quite a bit more room to work. You will need to get the car well in the air to enable you to drop the gearbox down so be careful.

 

I would also replace the shifter bushings as welll as its an easy 2 minute job to do whilst the gearbox is off. This can be a three hour mission to do if they go at a later date and they cost only a few quid to buy.

 

Might find this link some help maybe? http://www.ttzd.com/tech/clutchtech.html

 

Good luck,

 

Justin:)

Thanks Greg i have the usual propshaft vibration is it rec to replace the worn items aswell.and were could i get them

 

Dave

 

 

its not required to change prop bearing but i would check for play in the carrier!check gearbox mount aswell while your at it,follow the link justin has put up as this will be very useful!just take your time with it all and you will be fine

 

prop bearing carrier can be a job in itself,you will need a press/puller to remove it,ryan sells the propshaft bearing i think there about £100ish

What will make replacing the gearbox easier is rotating it through about 70-80 Degrees before trying to slide it onto the input shaft. I can't remember whether it's 70-80 Deg clockwise or anti-clockwise looking from the back though! Basically, you want the flat part of the bell housing at the top. This allows you to get the gearbox that extra half inch higher. Once it's on, rotate it back to the correct position. Believe me, if you do this it'll save you a lot of struggling!

 

Shaun

What will make replacing the gearbox easier is rotating it through about 70-80 Degrees before trying to slide it onto the input shaft. I can't remember whether it's 70-80 Deg clockwise or anti-clockwise looking from the back though! Basically, you want the flat part of the bell housing at the top. This allows you to get the gearbox that extra half inch higher. Once it's on, rotate it back to the correct position. Believe me, if you do this it'll save you a lot of struggling!

 

Shaun

 

 

the manual box is more fiddly to re-fit than an auto thats for sure,as shaun says the input shaft is a PITA to line up

Thanks everyone starting fri and hopefully finish sat.

 

I have my own 2 post ramp so should make it easier.

 

Dave

Thanks everyone starting fri and hopefully finish sat.

 

I have my own 2 post ramp so should make it easier.

 

Dave

 

 

good luck mate :D