Just failed mot: play found in nearside/offside of rear steering rack. Does anyone know if there's adjustment possible? Or is it knackered and I gotta get a new/recon :x: Is it a DIY job or garage? Oh yeah, do I need a substantial lottery win to get this done?! Not sure if car is an import, would this matter? Err, think I've asked enough questions for now!! Any advice much appreciated.

Steering arms can be replaced easily

 

£200 ish at a garage inc parts and tracking

 

DIY for around £120 To £140

 

Hope that helps

 

Jeff TT

As above really.....

The Steering arms can be replaced (each at about £55 a side for the part)

There is a difference between some rack units(not the arms)...

My jap import had the hydraulic line fittings on the top of the rack(KYB) where as others I have seen had the hydraulic line fittings on the rear edge of the rack.

 

Where you say:-

play found in nearside/offside of rear steering rack.Does anyone know if there's adjustment possible?

Or is it knackered and I gotta get a new/recon

 

Do you mean play in outer joint or the actual rack itself?

Either way the only adjustment to be made is to the tracking of the arms.

 

Watch for the wheel trackers after a quick buck as they might try and charge you £30 for front and then £30 again for rear(phone in advance and do not tell them what car youve got otherwise they'll try n take you for a mug...I had to walk away from several garages before I found a reasonable one)

 

Question...

Do you like the auto HICAS steering or does it get on your nerves and make the car feel unsettled?

 

If you like the HICAS steering then get the bits(arms or rack) replaced...

If you dont then bin the HICAS system as many on here have done(including myself) and go for a HICAS eliminator bar.

This replaces the rack completely with a solid piece and will eliminate that poxy rear wheel steering.

They go anywhere from £130 to £250 depending on quality.

Danny at DTA (on this forum) got me mine imported at a good price....(even better if your a member ;) )

 

Not sure if you can search as a registered user but if you can then search for "hicas eliminator" and you'll find all the info you'll need on them.

 

Good luck with whatever you choose

As Jeff said, probably a hi-cas arm,but make sure you identify where it is. I recently replaced mine because of play in the rear left wheel.

But turns out it was the outer arm ball joint causing the trouble.100% my own fault for not getting my mechanic to specify.,

Thanks for all the advice. Been reading manual and totally blinding myself with gobbledegook! Think I want to change to a HICAS eliminator. Will it come with instructions that a 5yr old can read? Is the changeover mind-boggling or straightforward for a DIYer to do? Only worked on landrovers before.

I like the HICAS myself, car definately turns in quicker (if its working right) and once used to it its superb.

If you want the HICAS rack you can have it for £55 delivered, passed the MOT without question so u will get a good one, cheaper than an eliminator or new arms!!

It has a new gaiter on one side which was £25 on its own (Nissan UK...love em)

Sorry to hijack, but can you get the outer hicas bushes seperately as i think i need a pair

oo er

 

cheers

Sorry to hijack, but can you get the outer hicas bushes seperately as i think i need a pair

oo er

 

cheers

 

would of thought so...I did :hyper:

sounds like you wanna speak to Mr.F at MJP ...good prices on new parts :bow:

Heres an old thread on the whole disscusion of HICAS eliminator :-

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=44653&highlight=progressive

Thanks for all the advice. Been reading manual and totally blinding myself with gobbledegook! Think I want to change to a HICAS eliminator. Will it come with instructions that a 5yr old can read? Is the changeover mind-boggling or straightforward for a DIYer to do? Only worked on landrovers before.

 

EErrmmm.....

 

Can be easy...can be fookin hard.

One of the problems is removing the outer rods from the actual rack.they can get seized on their very tight and u need the rear end up high to get the leverage to undo them.

if you cant you will have to replace them...which is a good idea anyway as there will probably be play in them.

The next problem is the fitment.

Depending on what kit u have will depend on the bypass system.

for example...

i had a stillen kit..

my rear fittings were different to that of the one shown.

I had pipes on top of rack....others had pipes on rear of rack.

the little block the pipes go into on the chassis was different..a flat unit...theres was angled...there fore the banjo union that linked up the two inlets wouldnt fit.

So the pipes were just cut and linked together.

Just make sure u get the tracking sorted afterwards.

I wouldnt do it myself when theres a good bloke like Baggins at ZTECH to do it 4me...lol

i would guess mate that it is more likely the bushes on the rear hub carrier have gone that attach to the rear steering arms. these have gone on my car, also i have replaced a few of these on customers cars also, so as you can guess they are pretty common. the easiest way to do this is to use a puller, but i work for a nissan dealer and even they don't have the puller to do them, the only other way to do it would be in a press. its a pain in the ass but do able. the bushes are around 40 - 50 quid each +vat and if you gunna get them done i advice you remove both carriers yourself and have some one you know press them out - in for ya, other wise you may end up paying a fair bit. easy way of checking, jack rear end up and hold rubber bush on the end of the rear steering arm and get some one the move the wheel back on fore on the play and you should be able to feel it. if you feel the knock in the joint then its the bushes, overwise it is likely to be the HICAS. if it is the HICAS there are places that you could get maybe a cheap second hand one. but i would say keep HICAS if you can as it is there for a reason, but thats just my opinion. ;)