Hi just wondering if somone could put some light on a problem i have with my passenger electric seat. The seat goes backward and forward fine. The problem is with the incline and the decline. I have just took the seat out with electrics connected and took off the switch cover. I then checked it with my fluke and have power going through when the switch is operated. So then i disconnected the plug halfway across the bottom to check for power and it was there.

So where is the fookin motor?? Is it in the seat itself cus thats where the wires go?! Is it a pain in the arse :headvswal :headvswal cheers :D

try here first m8

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=33367&highlight=electric+seat

try here first m8

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=33367&highlight=electric+seat

 

Cheers matey, read them but they dont inform me of how to get to the motor :(

Anyone!!?? :headvswal :headvswal

There are three motors within the seat base and one in the seat backrest. So if it's the up and down that isnt working then it'll be in the seat base.

Just to check, is it that it wont go up and down, or is it just one or the other? If it's both ways, then it'll be either the wiring between the switch and motor, or the motor itself. If it will go one way but not the other, then it will be the switch, probably a dirty contact somewhere..... Because, the switch changes the polarity of the 12 volts to the motor, so that it can go in either direction depending on the switch position. Thus, if one way works, then the motor and wiring must be OK, as it is the same for both.

 

HTH

There are three motors within the seat base and one in the seat backrest. So if it's the up and down that isnt working then it'll be in the seat base.

Just to check, is it that it wont go up and down, or is it just one or the other? If it's both ways, then it'll be either the wiring between the switch and motor, or the motor itself. If it will go one way but not the other, then it will be the switch, probably a dirty contact somewhere..... Because, the switch changes the polarity of the 12 volts to the motor, so that it can go in either direction depending on the switch position. Thus, if one way works, then the motor and wiring must be OK, as it is the same for both.

 

HTH

 

Hi Dave,

Its the passenger seat so it only goes back and forth and incline/decline. It goes back and forth but wont incline decline. As i said before i have 11 and half + volts at the socket halfway across th bottom of the seat. So the next point i was going to check was the wires at the motor but they disapeared into the back of the seat :confused: . Your gonna tell me its the motor there LOL :cry:

Hi Dave,

Its the passenger seat so it only goes back and forth and incline/decline. It goes back and forth but wont incline decline. As i said before i have 11 and half + volts at the socket halfway across th bottom of the seat. So the next point i was going to check was the wires at the motor but they disapeared into the back of the seat :confused: . Your gonna tell me its the motor there LOL :cry:

YEP!! :D Sounds like it.

Prolly nothing to do with the motor. You might have to crack open the 4 way switch. very carefully - its springs and balls will fall out. What you could have is burned contacts. A bit of work with wetndry or emery to sand off the burnt surfact of the contacts will fix it.

 

you need vaseline to get it back together with its balls on springs.

 

Mine did the same drivers side - eventually going back but not coming up again until switch was wiggled seriously. Not easy driving with the back fully reclined :)

As i said though buddy, i checked for voltage at the plug under the seat and 10/11 volts was showing on my fluke when i used the switch.

You might even get volts after the switch showing it going on and off when switching but the burned contacts might mean the volts collapse as soon as the motor tries to draw current and the contact heats up rapidly due to the burning. - 10/11 sounds a little on the low side.

 

Did you try continuity with the ohms scale across the motor windings?

You might even get volts after the switch showing it going on and off when switching but the burned contacts might mean the volts collapse as soon as the motor tries to draw current and the contact heats up rapidly due to the burning. - 10/11 sounds a little on the low side.

 

Did you try continuity with the ohms scale across the motor windings?

 

No not yet buddy, cus ive got to get to the motor in the seat. Is this easy??