Hey guys

 

Here goes... I have one dead z (k plate) and one lovely z courtesy of Jaffa (g plate). I've swapped various parts over from my smashed z, the main ones so far being the ECU and Bleed valves. The car feels really strong but it will not boost over 11-12 psi and thats with the bleed valves nearly totally open. I was running 13-14 psi on my old one. I still have the standard air filters and exhaust on at the mo Any ideas?

Also, i've taken the dash out of my old one so i can get the speed converter and its a little box with 4 wires coming out of it. Simple enough to wire up but my speedo used to cut out around 120mph. Could it be this box doing this?

The next parts to come off my old one are the kyb adjustable suspension. Is it easy to remove it as they were there when i got the car?

I am also going to swap the interior and the passenger seat in my dead one is electrically adjustable whereas it isnt in the one i have now. Is the wiring there or is there some way of linking the wiring from the drivers seat.

 

 

Lastly, I have about £4000 to play with and as im off to brands hatch in april against my mate in a very quick scooby i want my engine chucking out as much safe power as possible to rub it in his face :tongue:

Where should i go and what should i do???

 

Help for these questions would be, as always, most appreciated and im sorry if these are silly questions but im still relatively new to the zx modding scene.

 

Many thanks

 

BensJammin

Anyone? Please??

The next parts to come off my old one are the kyb adjustable suspension. Is it easy to remove it as they were there when i got the car?

 

 

not a huge job although fairly time consuming doing the rears due to the fact,that the rear seats need to come out all boot trim,carpet etc to reach the top struts to slacken the nuts off :(

 

obviously a spring compressor and idealy a air wrench,and a large scaffold bar or similar to move the rear arms out of the way for acsessability.

 

im no expert but watched ryan AKA baggins do my rear shocks and springs :bow:

 

as for performance with 4k you can do a fair bit if your not keen on blowing it on some upgraded turbos,then blow the money on the following decent exhaust&decat £600 approx

apexi filter £100 approx

chip to run more boost £100 approx

boost controller £250 approx

underdrive pulley [quality one]£100 approx

koyo radiator £300 approx

water,oil,boost gauge £100 approx

 

should be good for 320-350 RWHP for less than £1500

 

or spend the full 4k on turbos intercoolers injectors and it should safely see you running 400rwhp

 

check the traders forums getgreddy&smithy and dta motorsport have all the above items mentioned

yeah, get rid of the standard intake and exhaust!! The car can't breath :)

 

Also if you're serious about power get a boost controller, as it will also spool the turbos quicker as well as providing safer boost.

Next get an UD pulley, and maybe some braided brake hoses and good quality brake fluid for the track

 

P.S I'll have the manual subframe from the passanger seat off you at SantaPod ;)

better brakes will save you more time on the track than an extra 40-50 bhp

Sorry to sound silly but what is an underdrive pulley and what difference would a koyo radiator make. New filter should be on the car in the next few days but im a bit scared about exchanging the exhaust. Have blitz one on the smashed car!

A lightened flywheel and new clutch (assuming it's a manual)

Under pulley is the big wheel at the front of the engine which turns the belts for the powersteering, air con and fan.

Power is lost because the engine has to spin it round.

 

The pics are of a stock pulley and a lighter pulley.

 

 

 

 

The stock one is 13lb 7.5oz

The aftermarket one is 1lb 14.6oz

 

This is only 14% of the stock weight.

 

The engine has to work less hard to spin the pulley so there is less powerloss spinning it. This means more power can be used to spin the rear wheels.