Can anyone give me some advice on my gearbox problem. 94 Jap TT auto, does not change up from D2 to D3. D1 and D2 appears to be working fine. The electronic diagnosis check give an all clear signal.

I think its a sticking soleniod valve, but not sure how to check. :shock:

These boxes have a very weak third gear clutch, very often this wears out first, hence no third gear. It is a good idea to ease off the gas when its changing into third to help the clutch cope, probably too late for you I am sorry to say. Might be wrong with yours but the clutch is weak. Smell/look at the fluid.

If the clutch had gone it would still change up but slip.

Does sound like a solenoid or something but I'm not sure how you check it from here. I think and auto box specialist would be able to test it but they are bound to be after work...

Not sure thats right, sometimes they just wont go there. might be wrong though

Same happened to mine, filter broke up made its way through the box. Lost third gear and above. Required rebuild. Probable solenoid damage due to particles.

 

Unfortunate

uh oh. hate to say this mate but sounds like trouble :cry:

ive just had a conversion to a manual just because i lost 3rd gear and above. really hope its something simple tho :(

How much was a conversion and is it a success? Are there many specialists who can do this type of conversion?

2nd-hand parts tend to be £600-£750

labour tends to be £700-£800

 

it was a success tho and im glad i had it done. any Z or Japcar specialist should be able to do it (im not sure about 'normal' garages tho! - dont even think about Nissan :nono: )

i dont know if there are any relevant garages in your area.

Just a quick update. Box Knackered with 3rd gear clutch gone and filings all over the place. Guess I'll be fiting a new box after some of the quotes for parts to fix this one.

:cry: real sorry to hear that mate. if youre going to continue to drive her, keep her in '2' - mine lasted for nearly 4 months after I lost 3rd + 4th gears. consider a conversion to manual tho :cool:

Keeping it in 2nd and driving it means all of those lovely bits of metal continue to spread themselves around your box, and they start to wear "hard parts", such as gear trains, bearing surfaces etc.

This might mean when you strip it there is more costs as these part need replacing too. And these hard parts can be very costly

Keeping it in 2nd and driving it means all of those lovely bits of metal continue to spread themselves around your box, and they start to wear "hard parts", such as gear trains, bearing surfaces etc.

This might mean when you strip it there is more costs as these part need replacing too. And these hard parts can be very costly

 

true - what i meant to say was if he has to keep driving then '2' is better than 'D' - talkin from personal experience ;) (:( )

Hi Jim,

 

Just been looking on Ebay this afternoon and someone has a jap spec auto box up for sale. He's asking £300, however the car is in Southend Essex and wants anoter £50 postage. He's breaking his car but reckons the gearbox is fine.

What did you think about the gearbox Peter had at PPS?

 

Steve

Can anyone give me some advice on my gearbox problem. 94 Jap TT auto, does not change up from D2 to D3. D1 and D2 appears to be working fine. The electronic diagnosis check give an all clear signal.

I think its a sticking soleniod valve, but not sure how to check. :shock:

 

3rd - 4TH gear brake band is around £40 to buy at most(auto)gearbox repair centers....

The job is easy to do once the box is out...around a hours work removing old , fitting new band and setting up the new band!!! :cool: then you just need to flush the box and torque converter and youre done.... :D

The online manual on AndyP's website explains every detail of the job involved...

Most of the hard work which is very straight forward is removing and refitting the gearbox...

It will be a complete waste of money to buy a second hand Unit when you have to drop the box anyway and just change a brake band and flush the box out....If you dont want to do it yourself take the box to a reconditioner and this will cost a few hundred pounds, but a lot more if they have to drop and refit the box as well ,The price will double!!!

You will need to change the oil pump to torque converter seal as well (£8)as its recomended if you have dropped the box and you might as well do the rear main crank seal as well (£20) and the manual recomends you change the oil pump gasket but i just smear petroleum jelly on the gasket and there fine...

Im sure Baggins has done of these as well....You may have slight scoring of the Brake Drum as well where the rivets from the brake band have made contact where the lining has worn down passed its limits but 9/10 times if you havent been driving it round too long in this condition you can reuse the brake drum (and these are expensive to replace) after giving a light rub down with some 400 wet and dry.

Also if you choose to replace the brake band your self take it easy after rebuilding the box as the brake band will need to wear itself in to the drum..

If you dont take it easy for a few hundred miles you risk burning it out again which is where alot of people go wrong!!

My advice is if you have a good weekend to spare do it yourself following the manual and have a friend or two handy to assist you with dropping the Box as its very Heavy!!!

 

Good luck... :D

 

Here's a good link for Parts and repair http://www.expressgearbox.co.uk/ :cool:

Hi Jim,

 

Just been looking on Ebay this afternoon and someone has a jap spec auto box up for sale. He's asking £300, however the car is in Southend Essex and wants anoter £50 postage. He's breaking his car but reckons the gearbox is fine.

What did you think about the gearbox Peter had at PPS?

 

Steve

 

 

its probably JD-Z's off ot the forum?

Z master, thats all well and good but I think you will find its the clutch thats gone. Having said that, replacing the clutch plates is also no big deal. BUT, then as you are so far "in" you may as well do the rest too.

 

Biggest problem is properly cleaning out all of the muck, especially as it centrifuges in the converter. But also it will be throughout the valve body, so you will need to strip and clean that too, and the cooler(s). IF you dont clean the box/cooler/converter you may well find you have a pressure problem which in its self can damage the box again.

Not trying to be negative, but you need to know whats what. Potentially anyway.

Z master, thats all well and good but I think you will find its the clutch thats gone. Having said that, replacing the clutch plates is also no big deal. BUT, then as you are so far "in" you may as well do the rest too.

 

Biggest problem is properly cleaning out all of the muck, especially as it centrifuges in the converter. But also it will be throughout the valve body, so you will need to strip and clean that too, and the cooler(s). IF you dont clean the box/cooler/converter you may well find you have a pressure problem which in its self can damage the box again.

Not trying to be negative, but you need to know whats what. Potentially anyway.

 

Mate dont take this the wrong way But i am a fully Qualified mechanic and have worked on Quite a few Z32's and through experiance have found that the most common fault on these zeds with the automatic gearbox expecially the Jap imports is that the 3rd-4th overdrive brake band fail's due to overHeating of the Autotransmission Fluid..Not the (Clutch Packs) Unless they have done Very high mileage...

 

The Brake band always Fails Before the Clutch packs resulting in contaminated Brownish oil with metal particles from the drum and Band Rivets... :cool:

The clutch packs can often be good for around 100-120 thousand miles sometimes the life of the car...the Brake band 30 thousand or so without an upgraded oil cooler if driven hard and more than double that if fitted with an aftermarket oil cooler unless its UK spec...

 

Obviously The person concerned is looking for advice on what to do with his Automatic Transmission on his Z32 and that what i am doing Giving him Advice From my own personal Experiance and thats what this forum is for to Help Others.

Oh, and what am I doing? I made a point not to criticise you.

 

However as I have a Z, and my brother, and his son are in the autobox trade I have spoken at length to them on this topic and I feel that my view is more accurate. It may not be, but I feel it is.

 

You say the fluid is turned brown by the burning of the band? Well what is it that is on the band that does the contaminating? Paper,is what. Which is what is on the clutch plates. So how can you say its the band that makes the fluid brown, this is casued by burning band/plate linings.

 

You say the metal filings are from the band rivets and the drum, could be, but it could just as easily be metal from the clutch plates.

 

Also I doubt that the fluid temp is the cause of band failure, more likely lack of adjustment/too much stick. As for saying the clutch's last the life of the car you are wrong. Its very well know that the 3rd gear clutch is weak.

 

DOnt get me wrong, I know you are trying to help. But, your last paragraph seems to be attacking me. Of which there is no need, justification or benefit.

 

I am glad you are so well informed on auto's that you have no doubts at all with regard to this poor chaps problems. Just try and not get personal.

I am not attacking i am pointing out that (i) myself have rebuilt a few of these boxes and they have all had the same symptoms and i have successfully repaired them through my own mechanical knowlege and with no come backs....

Not to be funny but the advice you are giving is from your experiance of rebuilding Zed automatic gearboxes??? I would never critisize another mechanic or tell them how to do there job so what place have you to critisize me???

I am helping people with my Mechanical experiance and unless you have rebuilt these boxes yourself you should not tell i am wrong or critisize me i hate it when people who themselves have no mechanical knowlege critisize me...

So far your posts have been telling me i am wrong and if you want to give advice give it to the person concerned do not direct it at me unless you have rebuilt these gearboxes yourself...

The End

Can anyone give me some advice on my gearbox problem. 94 Jap TT auto, does not change up from D2 to D3. D1 and D2 appears to be working fine. The electronic diagnosis check give an all clear signal.

I think its a sticking soleniod valve, but not sure how to check. :shock:

If you want it rebuilt or you want to just get the parts yourself use this link....Any other help PM me.... ;) http://www.expressgearbox.co.uk/

Z master, as far as I knew this forum was for all of us, not just you, to give advice/help as we see fit.

We are allowed to disagree, sorry to disapoint you on that point.

You have no idea if I have any mechanical knowledge or not, to assume is remarkably short sighted. I actually spent several years doing nothing but automatics, but I not up to date with them. But the Z box is old tech.

You seem to think you are important enough for me to criticise directly. No, I just dont agree with your views being the only option. If you really want to help you should allow for other views.

Some of my comments were general, ie they apply to all autos.

You seem to think putting "The End" means something? You are still deluding yourself, I can, and will reply as I see fit, regarless of your "The End". Or until the mods ask me to stop.

And on that subject, please reply directly if you want to continue as I will not reply any further. Sorry to the guy who started the thread. But Z master, as you know everything what are the lottery numbers for next week. Me, I would have to guess.

No, sorry I have to say one more thing, I have just looked at your web site.

I quote "Getting it right first time, every time, for all our customers" that sure is some claim. And "The UK's leading automatic transmission specialist" I bet there are few who argue with that last one. You must be good.

No, sorry I have to say one more thing, I have just looked at your web site.

I quote "Getting it right first time, every time, for all our customers" that sure is some claim. And "The UK's leading automatic transmission specialist" I bet there are few who argue with that last one. You must be good.

If your trying to P**s Me off its working.while i am using this forum i will obey the forum rules...

Hopefully i will look forward to seeing you at the next big meet in summer 2005.. And then you may wish to air views in person...? :D

;-).......Look at, as in READ post number 9 from the thread starter. What does it say? Clutch. OK? :headvswal

 

At this time My Lord I rest my case. But I reserve the right to recall witnesses at a later stage.

I really really will not reply anymore. You win.

hi guys just thought i would add to this this all depends how confident jim is at doing this work for a start not so easy r&r box in the street you cannot clean a torque coverter without splitting it rewelding it and a rebalence, cooler very hard to clean properly most cases it is renewed if it is a rebuild from an automatic specalist they will not gaurentee it, if their is fillings in box it will be everywhere including valvebody which will need to be stripped and rebuilt and tested making sure there are no sticking valves and thats if you dont lose anything spings balls etc putting valves back in the wrong way some will fit but wont work also refitting if you dont engauge the torque converter to the pump properly you also in deep doo depending if you intend to keep the car quick fix or complete rebuild or secondhand you could be asking for more trouble