Guys, i had a warning light come on that i aint seen before?, i was doing 70 ish mph and put my foot down to overtake someone (yes i was on a motorway, the M25), and after a few seconds the 3rd light in from the left ( left warning light cluster between handbrake and doors open), came on. I slowed down and after about 5mins the light went out, but the car now runs like crap, it sounds as thought its missing a beat when you accelerate, the light is still off. Have not checked the ECU to see wot it says, but have checked the plugs, all ok.

The only mods i have on the car are:- aftermarket air filter (apexi), cat back exhaust, and a turbo timer.

The only other prob that i have is since i fitted the air filter (this wed), the car does'nt idle as good as it used to, and if it stalls its a bugger to start again, you have to wait for about 1hr for it to cool down then it will start.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as what to do? :smash:

 

Thanks guys

first thing to do when you get home dissconect the battery and leave off for an hour

recconect this should reset your ECU , it will start learning again at this point ,

 

make sure that the filter you have put in has not got the oil soaked filter element

these will contaminate the MAF and it will make your car drive like its on 2 pots

also check you havent got the MAF damp with intake air if it has been raining etc etc

 

hope that helps

 

steve

Guys, i had a warning light come on that i aint seen before?, i was doing 70 ish mph and put my foot down to overtake someone (yes i was on a motorway, the M25), and after a few seconds the 3rd light in from the left ( left warning light cluster between handbrake and doors open), came on. I slowed down and after about 5mins the light went out, but the car now runs like crap, it sounds as thought its missing a beat when you accelerate, the light is still off. .....Thanks guys

Right, do you have a series one or two PTU (series one = alloy body with fins, surrounded with black plastic) if it's a series one it could be on it's way out. If it's a series two then you could have a duff connector on one of your coil packs, best way here is to run the engine and remove one coil pack at a time, see if the engine note changes, if it doesn't then that one is your problem (this method isnt fail-safe though, could be more than one)

 

HTH

Have allready changed the ptu, yes it is the dreaded series 1. And have allready changed two coil packs, but i still have another two spare, thats the way i knew that they were duff in the first place.

The more i think about it i think it might be damp on the air flow sensor, cos it was raining this morning when it happend. and my new air filter is behind the front grill??? (99 front).

but will check the coil packs again?

baz

No 3 coil pack connection cracked and fell off????? barsteward???

 

Does any one know what the warning light is, as in my first post.....Please.....

 

Baz

what does it look like? If it's an import it might be the cat overheat light which would fit it would your problems. Unburnt fuel is getiing into your exhuasts and igniting.

 

Vijay

agree with vijay

Yup, its an import, its hard to discribe wot it looks like but it could represent an exhaust with wavey lines above it??

is it only imports that have this? and can i diss it? or is it needed.

 

 

Fixed the prob with the no3 coil and runs as sweet as a nut again...whoopie.....

 

If i'm gonna keep getting these coil pack probs, i thinks i will change to another management system, to get rid of the cas, ptu, coil packs, and the maf, wot you think guys???

 

Wots the best after market system ? DTA????

The exhaust with the wavy lines above ot is the cat overheat light. Replacement manangement systems are not cheap, Mac1 has had one fitted as part of his recent build

i know ther not cheap, i done one a couple of years ago to my S13.... :-}

If there is any decent weather tomorrow, I'll be doing this as the last job of my recent service. This lack of power when you slam your foot to the floor, and having the cat overheat light come on has been with me for some time now. So I've got six new coil pack plugs (just the plug, as the wire and pins are fine) and for good measure I've also got the injector connectors complete with new wire, as these are quite dodgy.

The heat in the engine bay is quite intense, so after a few years they tend to 'dry out' (so-to-speak) so I'll end up replacing all the connectors under there eventually.

 

Did you change your PTU for a series two, or just another series one? If it was a series two, you could relocate it to under the centre panel between the headlights (you could for a series one anyway) then you could also 'hard-wire' in the series two plugs, and do away with the old series one plugs. Quite a simple mod (I've got the wiring codes for it somewhere), and it tidies up the front of the engine.

 

Anyway, hope that helps a bit.

its a series 1 ptu, and i must admit the plugs on the coil pack are not very good, they dont click in anymore, some bits have broken off them cos they are so brittle, the ones on the injectors are good.

I think i will move the PTU, just for good measure anyway, and when you say hard wire do you mean solder to the ptu, instead of the plugs that connect to it, cos i was also gonna do that as well.

 

Baz

....

I think i will move the PTU, just for good measure anyway, and when you say hard wire do you mean solder to the ptu, instead of the plugs that connect to it, cos i was also gonna do that as well.

 

Baz

The series two PTU comes with an adaptor loom, that plugs between you old car loom and the new PTU. The down fall to this is that if you've got dodgy connectors in the first place then you will still have dodgy connectors!!

This is what you get with a series two PTU

 

What i've done is cut out the old connectors and soldered the new adaptor loom in, now using the nice new PTU connectors. A much neater job, and it cuts out one more potential fault point.

 

HTH