anyone know how to get jap speedo to read from 0-160MPH like the US ones

thanks

 

yaseen

You're not interested in those glow dials on ebay are you????

lol been looking at em for months, just didnt think to ask :slap:

I'm interested too - lets see what "the gurus" say.......................

All you need to do is swap the resistor out on the speedo PCB, but the trick will be finding the right value component. J-spec (33k Ohm) goes to 120mph, Euro spec (20k Ohm) goes to 180mph (and above! I've got the same resistor on my clocks reading up to 190mph).

 

Just had a quick look at possible values and I reckon 27k might do you- the calibration pot varies a fair amount anyway. In fact, it might be worth twiddling the calibration pot in the first place, but I don't think it'd go as high as 160.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Mark

There is an adjuster screw at the bottom of the speedo.

 

People in Austrailia who go for 300kph dials recalibrate it using this screw.

thanks guys.

Mark what/where is the speedo PCB

Stu where is the adjuster screw and do you have to take the cluster out to adjust it?

Would have gone out and played around with the clocks but cars in the bodyshop

The speedo PCB has the speedo dial mounted on it, so you have to disassemble the whole binnacle which is tedious but not too difficult. The only dodgy bit is removing the switch pods- the screw posts fragmented a bit when I took mine apart so I had to buy some longer screws when it came to put it back together.

 

So there are the two options- one is to tweak the existing set-up and the other is to swap the resistor, but you still need to tweak it afterwards to get it reading right.

 

I think the adjuster screw that SRRAE speaks of is the calibration pot which I talk about. I know that there are (at least!) 2 versions of PCB and mine had 2 calibration pots- one for the offset (i.e. it reads 0 when you're not moving) and the other for the scale (sets the range). On mine the pots are at the top of the PCB, so I drilled 2 holes in the speedo housing so that with the binnacle cover off, I could stick a small screwdriver down at twiddle on the move.

 

As far as the resistor change goes, you need to be a bit handy with a soldering iron. You have to desolder the old resistor and then solder in the new one.

 

Useful links:

Binnacle dismantle: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=297744

My conversion pt1: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=35682

My conversion pt2: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=36601

 

The last thread has lots of pics for reference.

 

Mark

For info, Eisegerwind is the real expert on all this. I just pinched his information and applied it! So- credit to Eisegerwind I think :bow:

 

Mark

Cheers Mark, not sure about the 'expert' bit though. Woud've thought that a 24K resistor would be the one to use for a 160MPH scale.

Speak to Luke he fitted a set NEVER AGAIN!

Speak to Luke he fitted a set NEVER AGAIN!

 

wot happened Iain?

I've fited these dials and it is a pain in the a*se but it's do-able. Just to confirm that a 24K resistor is correct to get the range correct. Also to correct a bit of info on the two pots on the J-spec PCB, one of them is for the range adjustment as per Mark W's description the other is not for the offset as I previously thought but for the adjustment of the speed that the annoying 'bong' sound is triggered (normally approx 100kmph).

To get back to the dials themselves, there are no instructions supplied. The dials are very flexible and not flat, they can be fitted over the existing dials without removing the needles, if you try to fit them over the existing dials without adhesive they will foul the needles, I used double sided tape to stick them to the old dials, crap idea don't do it, ended up having to remove the needles (make sure you have fine needle nose pliers to hold the shafts if you remove the needles).