can someone confirm whether dip beam is switched off when main beam is on? I've just reinstalled my lights after the jeff TT conversion incl new earth leads for dipbeam to the chassis, and all 4 beams now come on when on main beam. This is fine, but is it going to cook something somewhere? Cheers.

Yep, as standard when the mains come on the dips go off.

Hi Coogs I should of mentioned the change in operation of the lights after the conversion.The original switching off of the dips is done via the earth lead which is the weak point as mentioned before, now that you have a seperate earth the dips stay on with the main beam,as the + supply is sourced from a different fuse location that`s no problem and any extra light as I see it is a bonus. Jeff TT

Cool, but you guys are talking Jap Spec though aren't you? I know yours is Jeff mate

Sorry Tim was not been clear again was I yes Jap spec for sure,however changed the bulbs on Cos`s UK spec and they had the earths retained as per original but could change over if wanted.

Jeff TT

Hi Jeff,

 

I tried re earthing main beam as well but found the main beam came on with the dip when in DIP beam mode. So i reconnected the std connectors/wire for main beam and so only the dip are re earthed. is this what u did? I figure the main beam are not on for long periods and so std wiring should cope? My 100w bulbs recommend a 20w rating for switches etc. I notice the fuses are 15w. Is this OK u reckon? Cheers

Incidentally, Something fell out of my lamps when i disassembled them. They were like 3 penny sized tablets in a foam envelope about 2x1x0.25 inch. There was one in each lamp assy. Any idea what they are? I have not put them back as the foam was disintegrating.

Coogs the way you have the headlights is as mine now,Nissan have some funny ideas about cabling and switching -0v line (earth) rather than the conventional +12v (live)

The tablet type things are to absorb moisture,chances are they are done in any how after a few years.

Do not worry about the switch rating against fuse rating for your bulbs, its easy to misinterperate the figures,firstly the switching is done by relays and second the rating is for full load switching.The actual current drawn on a 100watt bulb is 7.4 amps at 13.5 volts (engine running) so alls ok on the fuse/ cable front now you have removed the weak earth point.

Jeff TT

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by Jeff TT (edited 14-11-2001).]