Hi guys,

 

Just a quick question for the techies amongst us.

 

I bought a simple Xenon timing light (non-inductive) and couldn't get it to work. I know you have to take the No.1 cylinder coil pack apart but the metal spring/sensor thingy on the timing lead wouldn't go in series with the disassembled coil pack. The spring/sensor is tapered and just wouldn't go in far enough.

 

I'm now about to exchange it for an inductive timing light but was wondering if that would work better. I know that the clamp has to be around the black wire loop on the PTU but I've recently seen a post on here that suggests that this method is highly inaccurate as it picks up the signal for both No. 1 and No. 6 cylinder ?! Can anyone explain the correct way of using this type of timing light and how to compensate for getting a double reading.

 

Your comments are as always much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Danny

Danny,

Either can be made to work accurately.

Try getting a spare HT lead and using it as an extension for the half of the coil plug connector that can be left in the head.

I just have a long metal tube with a HT lead inserted through the middle, remove coil pack and plug 1 end of lead on pack and the other on spark plug, fairly much same as above, smithy

Ohhhhhh, maybe I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but I still can't visualize how Smithy's setup would work with the timing lead I've got...

 

It may be painfully obvious to some but I'm afraid not to me.

 

Smithy's setup: one end of the HT lead touches the top of the spark plug, goes up the metal tube, attaches to one end of the timing lead sensor, the top of which touches the bottom end of the coil pack.

 

Is this even close?

 

 

Danny

Sounds about right to me. It's effectively just an extension lead.

 

What does your timing light connection look like ?

Best way to describe it is "conical" I.e., it's a metal coil that's wider at the bottom (spark plug end) then at the top (distributor/coil pack end). This conical coil is attached, in parallel if you will, to the rubber lead that goes up to the actual timing gun. Very confusing because neither end of the coil can be attached either to the top coil pack or the bit that stays in the head.

 

 

Danny

Sounds similar to mine - be creative (but don't touch the wires )

Back to the top it goes ....!

 

I'm going to keep the timing light I bought and see if I can find a spare HT lead somewhere.

 

But, I'm still curious to find out how one would work an inductive timing light. Someone mentioned that putting the clamp around the loop (by the PTU) gives false indications. Any thoughts, suggestions of how to do it properly?

 

Cheers all!

 

Danny

I'm using a different approach.

If you look next to the fuse-box, there are 2 1-pin-connectors hanging there.

One is the RPM signal and the other is the Timing Signal.

The Timing Signal is actually connected to the lead that goes between the PTU and coil #1.

 

I could not find any timing light that would attach to this connector, so I modified my inductive one...

Works neat!

It's not a simple mod though

 

Maciej

Maciej - I'd be interesting in reading about the mod you made to your inductive light.. Any chance of a writeup? Or email me the basics?

 

TIA

Az

Thanks guys - I have just bought an HT lead from Harry's and will be making another attempt tomorrow.

 

Wish me luck!

 

Danny