Can anyone advise of a compatible battery for the Zed? My local places dont know what a Zed is!

Cheers

ED :nana2:

069 for uk spec

 

096 for jap.

Got mine from Bristol Batteries at £34, have in stock.

I've just bought a new battery for the Z - last one was left flat for 3 months and consequently died!

 

UK spec battery is listed as a 088. (In both the Lucas and the ABS catalogue at least)

 

Chunk, the 069 is the right size in all dimensions, but has the recessed terminals so no idea how the battery could be wired once inside the battery holder. (Without the holder/cover it would be ok however)

 

Simon

 

Chunk, the 069 is the right size in all dimensions, but has the recessed terminals so no idea how the battery could be wired once inside the battery holder. (Without the holder/cover it would be ok however)

 

Simon

 

 

CHUNK!!!!!! You giving out bad advice? :nono:

 

Please leave advice giving to the pro's like myself in future! :D :rofl:

:confused: Just put on a new one myself last week but still have the same draining prob. Any clues you lot ?

:confused: Just put on a new one myself last week but still have the same draining prob. Any clues you lot ?

 

Had a problem like this turned out to be the alternator, :mad:

Had a problem like this turned out to be the alternator, :mad:

 

 

as mickey says.. possibly alternator! not charging battery

 

althouh iv heard of car alarms/immobilisers causing battery problems

 

i think you can have the alternator checked for power outputs

069 for uk spec

 

096 for jap.

What he mant to say is

 

067 or 069 for uk

 

068 for jap!!!

:confused: Just put on a new one myself last week but still have the same draining prob. Any clues you lot ?

 

 

Neil....

 

 

If I remember right, to test for a power drain is pretty simple..

All you need is a test light, or multi meter....

 

 

As I recall, you disconnect the positive battery terminal, and connect the lead light, or test meter in series with the battery and the terminal on the battery cable. (with me so far?)

 

Next, with ignition off touch the the battery terminal and the cable terminal together and I believe the light should go out. If it stays on, you have a drain.... (still with me??)

 

Now the diagnostic part.....

 

Start at one end of the fuse box, and pull a fuse out,

 

Now do the testa again as above, and when the light no longer comes on, you have found the circuit that is draining....

 

Once you have identified it, you can then decide how to fix it...

 

 

 

HTH

 

Pud

aaahhhh, just found this.....

 

"Testing for excessive current flow from the battery has changed along with the automotive electronics. It used to be sufficient to place a test light between the battery post and the disconnected battery cable. If the test light came on, there was a battery drain on that vehicle. That test no longer works for smaller computer drains. The only correct method of testing for a battery drain is to use a digital ammeter.

 

The ammeter is connected between the battery post and the disconnected cable just as before. This meter measures the actual current flowing from the battery into the electronics systems. A typical engine computer will use between 5 and 8 milliamps (thousandths of an amp) to keep the memories working. Most vehicles should show a total reading of 25 milliamps or less when the test is performed, however a few luxury cars may show as high as 50 milliamps. In comparison, a trunk light uses about 900 milliamps or .9 amps and would drain the battery overnight.

 

If the measured current flow is too high, then fuses are disconnected one at a time until the faulty circuit is identified for repair. Some vehicles will require a waiting period of up to 1/2 hour before an accurate measurement can be taken. During this time the computers are "awake" and use more power. After sitting for several minutes without any switches being operated the computers go into "sleep mode" and use less power.

 

Take caution if you try testing the current flow; opening a door (which operate the interior lights) or turning on the ignition switch or headlights will damage many ammeters. The testing must be done carefully to prevent high current flows from passing through the meter.

 

Many of the newest cars are using electronics to reduce the risk of having a dead battery. Some cars such as Lincoln and Cadillac monitor the battery voltage and begin to turn off systems if the battery voltage goes below normal limits. This helps those that tend to leave their lights on or park their vehicles for long periods. Other vehicles have timer modules that monitor ignition switch position and turn off the power to interior lights and other accessories after a preset time. The owner's manual will describe this feature, but if you don't have it, using a 2 amp trickle charger will keep the battery fully charged when the vehicle is sitting for long periods.

 

Finally, other factors can cause a battery to go dead faster than normal. Warm temperatures cause the battery chemical reactions to occur faster causing the battery to discharge quicker. Dirt or dust on top of the battery and high humidity levels also cause a problem. The electricity leaks through the damp dirt directly from one battery post to the other causing the battery to discharge. Keeping a battery clean, cool, and dry will ensure it retains its charge longer.

 

 

Jim Kerr is a master automotive mechanic and teaches automotive technology. He has been writing automotive articles for fifteen years for newspapers and magazines in Canada and the United States, and is a member of the Automotive Journalist's Association of Canada (AJAC)."

 

The source for this info....

 

Pud

Mine has battery problems, connected up the conzult and it gave battery reading of 14.4v with the engine running, which i guess clears the altinator. Any body know any other tests that can be run with the conzult to check if it is the battery??

as mickey says.. possibly alternator! not charging battery

 

althouh iv heard of car alarms/immobilisers causing battery problems

 

i think you can have the alternator checked for power outputs

 

No the alternator is charging ok. But the battery is being drained by the alarm or somthing ?

Mine has battery problems, connected up the conzult and it gave battery reading of 14.4v with the engine running, which i guess clears the altinator. Any body know any other tests that can be run with the conzult to check if it is the battery??

 

most decent garages should have a battery load tester to confirm if the battery is ok ar not.

 

a nice easy cheap way of testing the battery is to get a battery hydrometer which measures the specific gravity of the acid indicating charge levels ;)

 

also checking the voltage output is not the best way of testing an alternator.

 

charge rate is in amps, which should be tested with a (heavy duty) ammeter :)

:dance: Thanks for the info :dance: