As the title says, how long to you think an N/A auto gearbox would last.

 

The car is a 1990 import with 50K miles full jap service history & has been well looked after as the cambelt was changed at 35K miles!! :shock:

 

It's just I think it's starting to play up? :cry:

You droped/changed the oil in it? Do that first and reset the box ECU.

 

See how it is after that, think the N/A box will last longer as it does not have as much power running through it. Take note as to if the oil is burnt when you change it.

There are other things which could go wrong and make the autobox look at fault. Eg the Throttle Position Sensor, Speed Sensor, ECU. What are the symptoms?

Im gonna get a full service on it soon. How do you reset the ECU on these (sorry to say this cause im an mr2 person) do you pull the efi fuse? or can you just disconnet the battery for a minute or so?

Disconnect the battery for about an hour to reset the ECU

Theres been a couple of symptoms:

 

1.) Put my foot down a while ago, not to a bad extent at all and this lead to a really high idle speed, of about 1500-1750rpm.

 

2.) The car then when setting off from a junction, i'd accelerate and there'd be nothing then all of a sudden it would engage.

 

3.) Went to the pub 15 miles down the road, parked up, left it for about 15 minutes then had to nip to the cash machine, got back in the car started it up and put it in reverse then it stalled? Took 5 minutes of cranking until it would start again?

 

4.) I didn't drive the car for over a week and when i've got in it now it's fine, idles about 800-1000rpm depending wether i've got the aircon on or not. But something doesn't feel right as everytime if taken it out for abit of a spirited run there is a bad burning smell when you park up and get out of the car?

 

I've not had much experience with Zeds as i've always had Mr2's, but im abit stumped!

A few of those symptoms actually sound more like a knackered coolant temperature sensor (hopefully for you!). Anyone agree?

 

Its the right-hand sender plumbed into the large metal pipe that the fan blows onto at the front of the engine. Give it a wiggle and see if the fan cuts in/out. The connection may just be dirty so undo the connector (dont lose the clip!) and clean up the connection.

 

Good luck

 

Pete

Cheers fella, i'll give it a try.

Also check the box's oil level.

You droped/changed the oil in it? Do that first and reset the box ECU.

 

See how it is after that, think the N/A box will last longer as it does not have as much power running through it. Take note as to if the oil is burnt when you change it.

 

 

reset the bearbox ecu.?

Ahh, done that.

 

Can I hijack this thread a little.? Thanks :)

 

When I boost the car, when going from 1st to second, its like its slipping. Engines fine. Sounds like this :)

 

BruuuuAAAAHHHHH (change 2nd) WhaaaWHaaaWhaaaBruuuuAAAAHHH(3rd)BraaaAAAHHH :)

If I do it manualy, I dont get this.

reset the bearbox ecu.?

 

Yup, the bearbox ;) has its own ecu behind the drivers seat behind a pannel next to the rear seats.

Im gonna get a full service on it soon. How do you reset the ECU on these (sorry to say this cause im an mr2 person) do you pull the efi fuse? or can you just disconnet the battery for a minute or so?

 

I know exactly how you feel m8. I just sold my Bombex Replica MR2 (UK) and bought a 300 (What a shcok in performance that was!!!!1!) :hyper:

Not sure if this helps but my jap import TT has got just under 50,000 on the clock. And the box is shagged - no 2nd or 4th!!!!! new one going in on the 24th yippee..

Yup, the bearbox ;) has its own ecu behind the drivers seat behind a pannel next to the rear seats.

gear box ecu is by the side of the main ecu in the passenger foot well

 

steve

gear box ecu is by the side of the main ecu in the passenger foot well

 

steve

 

 

:xxx:

 

Realy must learn not to say things when I'm wrong a lot :slap: :rofl: