Evening all, havent been here in a while! Finally got around to spending some cash on my z, and I am going to fit adjustable upper arms (and lower tension rods...)

 

The lower rods look easy enough to get at once the undertray is out of the way, but has anyone fitted the upper arms? That bolt at the back, that attaches the arm to the bracket, is there any way it can be removed without unbolting the mounting bracket from the chassis?

 

If not, is that as big a job as it looks? The mounting brackets seem to be bolted onto the chassis, not studded, and I couldn't see how to get a spanner down the side to hold the mounting bracket bolts from turning as the nut is undone from the arch side...

 

Any help gratefully appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Derek

 

PS Fittted a TEIN flex kit today, made a huge difference. :D

You have to unbolt the upper arm bracket from the body. Long extensions and good sockets needed. I replaced and rebushed the arms for both sides in about 3 hours with Nismo bushes. So just replacing them shouldnt take that long.

With adjustables you will just have to make sure that you measure the present arms as is and start with the adjustables set to the same length. Then get the camber and track adjusted later.

 

Also I think the tension rods can be done even without removing the undertray

Thanks very much! So when you got the socket onto the upper arm bracket nut, did you need a spanner on the other side, or is it studded (threaded) into the chassis? I was more concerned about how I would be able to hold the bolt from the opposite side...

 

I'll be dusting off my old camber and optical tracking gauges, haven't used them for about 7 years!

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/aarms/aarms.html this should help nicely ;) Pretty sure the bolts are captive so shouldn't turn when you're undoing the nut ;)

Ah bloody marvellous! That's what I wanted to hear! Having just replaced a rear toe link lying on my back in the rain, turning it a flat at a time cos it's shoehorned in next to the fuel tank, then realising ten minutes later that it was just turning the other end of the HICAS rack(!), I would appreciate an easier ride changing the upper arms! :-)

Upper arms are a doddle M8,just done mine when I uprated all the shocks and springs.As said earlier the four bolts have welded (captive)nutts so not a prob.Measure the centres of the holes on existing and adjust to the same measurement on the new.I did that and then went for a laser four wheel set up and they were almost spot on.

Great! I've got 4 new discs, tension rods and the upper arms coming in a week or so, and I'll be doing the whole lot in one go.