any ideas anyone hopes it's fairly low as when the boost controllers fitted hope she will feel allot faster.

any ideas anyone hopes it's fairly low as when the boost controllers fitted hope she will feel allot faster.

9psi , 7psi if your running in safety boost

how do i know if i'm running in safty boost or not.

 

you lot must think i'm a right num nut!!

how do i know if i'm running in safty boost or not.

 

you lot must think i'm a right num nut!!

not at all , you would be suprised at how many people out there are running in safety boost and do not even realise, the stock gauge is well......crap to say the least you will either need to get it on a Conzult or do a self diagnostic to check for error codes or plum in an after market boost gauge to check your PSI level

 

Ryan

Is there a differance in the boost between the UK and Jap cars as there is 20bhp differance between the two?

Is there a differance in the boost between the UK and Jap cars as there is 20bhp differance between the two?

boost is the same although the Japs measure it differently i.e not in PSI

boost is the same although the Japs measure it differently i.e not in PSI

 

Ok, a bit off topic now, but what causes the UK an Jap cars to have a 20bhp differance? Chip ,exhaust? I'm just curious on this one.

TBH I think the only difference is in the published figures ;) Anyone confirm the difference with a dyno sheet???

TBH I think the only difference is in the published figures ;) Anyone confirm the difference with a dyno sheet???

agreed was this not all to do with Japanese laws at the time i.e keeping to 280 bhp or below ????

some sort of agreement the leading japanese manufacturers had

Back in the late 80's/early 90's the Jap bike manufacturers had a 'gentlemens agreement' not to make bikes over 125bhp........if you dyno a GSX-R1100 from that era it was pumping out over 140bhp :eek: ;)

 

Remember, we in the UK are the only assholes in the entire world who actually take heed of all this eco/kiddy friendly bull-shit :xxx: (with the possible exception of the Californians :rolleyes: )

Fitting my boost controller shorly would bypass saftey boost if it is on.

there was an agreement between the manufacturers. thats why the scoobys, skylines, evo's etc. were all something like 276bhp (i noticed this in Gran Turismo 3 and thought it was a bug!!! lol) i think the first car to break it was the new supra in an attempt to beat the ZX! ;) ;) ;)

 

AFAIK its the US ZX thats 300bhp and all others are 280 - you know how the yanks always like to out-do everyone else

(with the possible exception of the Californians :rolleyes: )

 

lol except those cheeky fecks all get around it by driving gas guzzling "SUV's" which for some reason dont count as a car!! :confused:

Fitting my boost controller shorly would bypass saftey boost if it is on.

 

Before you do any mods you may want to check that all is good with your motor, if something is slightly amiss then things can go horribly wrong very quickly if you start upping the boost etc.

 

There is an FAQ on here with a list of things to do/check before you start modding. Strongly recommend you run through at least the basic ones first (ecu diag etc.)

so whats the bhp on a UK standard TT?

any ideas anyone hopes it's fairly low as when the boost controllers fitted hope she will feel allot faster.

 

Someone correct me if im wrong(and i usually am!) :x: But i didnt think that it was worth fitting a Boost controller if your running standard tubs that can only take a safe boost pressure of say 12psi? :confused:

Fitting my boost controller shorly would bypass saftey boost if it is on.

 

Careful! IF you're running in safety boost it could indicate a problem with the engine. This might "only" be a failure of the detonation sensor or associated wiring, or possibly something else. If the detonation sensor fails then you'll get the 7 psi safety boost: at 9 psi the danger of knocking is increased, and if this occurs it can cause serious engine damage. You can verify whether or not this is the case by running an ECU diagnostic. Instructions for doing this, along with a full list of error codes, can be found at http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html (this link is available from the buyers guide in the FAQ section of this forum). Code 34 indicates a problem with the detonation sensor circuit. All the best.