Please can someone advise on what enfine and gearbox oil to use for my 1993 t/t. I use it for short journey to work and weekends for kicking my mates supras ass ha ha . I am bit confused as so many advices on what one to use . am i right in thinking 15-50 is right fully synthetic?? and what about gearbox and diff.

 

Also how easy it to change rear diff oil and front diff oil ( or is it part of engine??) and the gearbox oil ?? Also where can i go to get amounts to put in.

 

Help !!! :mac1:

Magnatec is teh ev1l. ;)

 

No it's not Az...coz I know more about oil than Sheik Mohammed Mohammed III who bottles the stuff at source in Saudi. :D

 

Anyway am running the Renne at stock unlike some of you crazy kids who run the poor little blighters at rediculous boost levels like 30 PSI in which case I don't see where the type of oil comes into the equation.

 

"Oh damn my little 1.4 litre lump has blown up sending the turbo into meltdown and nuking my pistons in the process...ah I know what was to blame...that bloody oil...must have been the wrong type! Yep that will do it everytime." :D ;)

No it's not Az...coz I know more about oil than Sheik Mohammed Mohammed III who bottles the stuff at source in Saudi. :D

 

You're thinking of your massage oil again you big poofda ;) :tongue:

 

Anyway am running the Renne at stock unlike some of you crazy kids who run the poor little blighters at rediculous boost levels like 30 PSI in which case I don't see where the type of oil comes into the equation.

 

But they're much more fun at 30psi! ;) Speaking of which - I knocked up a little website recently for a friend of a friend, the bloke who owns the red one that did the 1/4 in 12.19s.. Now that's a fast 1.4 :)

 

Anyway.. back to oil..

No mate...LOL :D...sod the oil that was getting boring anyway and what this stupid thread needs is to be steared well and truly off topic IMO! :D

 

Back to the Renault's, can you whack the PSI up on stock turbo and internals then? Must be bonkers quick acceleration and they don't have a high redline which means you must get through the gears at warp factor nine as I find changing gear on the stock car a pain. Through the gears in no time seeing as it revs out of puff at 4.5K.

Back to the Renault's, can you whack the PSI up on stock turbo and internals then? Must be bonkers quick acceleration

 

Yup ;) You can pretty safely run 16psi on the standard T2 as long as you fit some bigger carb jets - I was running 150 main jets which was a tad rich really, 135 or 140 is probably about right on most cars for 15-16psi on a bleed valve..

 

Slap on a cheap exhaust (the stock one is stupidly restrictive, looks like it came off a Campus ;)) and you're done for basic mods.

 

Sure, the turbo has a slightly reduced life, but you can get replacements for ~£100 and it takes about an hour to fit one :D On the other hand, a friend has done probably 30-40k running 16psi and had no problems at all..

 

http://www.rtoc.org - well worth joining if you fancy a few subtle mods, some good dealer discounts ;)

 

Accelleration is stupid, and the torque steer can be a bit manic :D but it's all good fun. At one point I was hitting 22+psi :rofl: Now that was mad.. Turbo didn't last very long at all at that psi though!

FFS! will you 2 stop talking b******s about Renaults & get back on topic :nono: , which is talking b******s about oil :D

FFS! will you 2 stop talking b******s about Renaults & get back on topic :nono: , which is talking b******s about oil :D

 

 

What do you know about Oil your car smokes more than a Labaratory Beagle :D

What do you know about Oil your car smokes more than a Labaratory Beagle :D

 

LMAO :D

What do you know about Oil your car smokes more than a Labaratory Beagle :D

 

i do know how to spell laboratory though ;) :p

Paul maybe it's the oil you're using mate! PMSL :D

..........I suggest Jacques you go back and re read some proper technical documentation on multigrade oils, especially synthetics. As the second number has no relation to thickness but its ability to withstand temperature, and relates to the molecule elasticity.

 

Leigh.

 

Now I agree that I'm not that enlightened on the science of oils but I always believed that both numbers refered to viscosity.

 

IE the 1st number being the viscosity when cold (hence the "W") and the 2nd when hot. Which is why I believed a "X"w40 was thinner than a "X"w60 at high temps.

 

I'm sure someone will know the facts but I'll not accept it here - you all have different opinions and that is just what they are.....

 

All I know is that my ZX is not used in competition and is not heavily modified and doesn't run at increased temperature. Nissan recommend a 10w40 and developed the TT engine using it. I'm therefore happy running 5w40 fully synth in my engine as it seems happy. It consumes next to no oil, doesn't rattle and the pressure when hot is spot on. The car has done 76K miles with all servicing by Nissan up to 60K (using their own choice - probably 10w40) and by a specialist afterwards (using my choice of 5w40).

 

Richard :x:

My car didnt need a re-build??, its getting a new engine, because I want to, but it hasnt gone bang

Now I agree that I'm not that enlightened on the science of oils but I always believed that both numbers refered to viscosity.

 

IE the 1st number being the viscosity when cold (hence the "W") and the 2nd when hot. Which is why I believed a "X"w40 was thinner than a "X"w60 at high temps.

 

I'm sure someone will know the facts but I'll not accept it here - you all have different opinions and that is just what they are.....

 

All I know is that my ZX is not used in competition and is not heavily modified and doesn't run at increased temperature. Nissan recommend a 10w40 and developed the TT engine using it. I'm therefore happy running 5w40 fully synth in my engine as it seems happy. It consumes next to no oil, doesn't rattle and the pressure when hot is spot on. The car has done 76K miles with all servicing by Nissan up to 60K (using their own choice - probably 10w40) and by a specialist afterwards (using my choice of 5w40).

 

Richard :x:

 

It's truly a shame that a thread which is based on such an important topic has degenerated to the point where people cannot accept or work out the facts, still that's the internet for you!

 

FACT:

 

Yes 10w-60 is thicker than 10w-40 when hot, they are the same when cold.

 

FACT:

 

VISCOSITY - measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. It is ordinarily

expressed in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of the

fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The

higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies

inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless

accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With

petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in CENTISTOKES

(cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100°C (ASTM Method D445 -

Kinematic Viscosity).

 

FACT:

 

VISCOSITY INDEX (V.I.) - the measure of the rate of change of

viscosity with temperature. This change is common to all fluids - some

more, some less. Heating tends to make them thinner, - cooling, thicker.

The higher the V.l., the less the tendency for the viscosity to change. V.l.

is determined by formula from the viscosities at 40°C and 100°C in

accordance with the ASTM Test Method D567 or D2270. The latter test

is required for V.l.'s above 100. High V.l. oils are often preferred for

service in which a relatively constant viscosity is desired under

conditions of varying temperature. Some hydraulic systems require this

property. Paraffinic oils are inherently high in V.l., and the V.l. of any

petroleum oil can be increased by the addition of a V.l. improver.

Naphthenic oils are inherently low in V.l. and aromatic oils are still

lower - often having negative numbers.

 

FACT:

 

SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS - lube oils possessing a base oil that has

been manufactured from chemical constituents or by polymerization of

hydrocarbons (olefins) rather than by conventional refining of

petroleum. The three most common types of synthetic base oil are: i)

Polyalpholefins ii) Organic esters iii) Polyglycols.

Synthetic lubricants have several advantages over conventional mineral

oils:

- excellent low temperature fluidity

- low pour point

- high natural viscosity index

- excellent oxidation stability

- high flash, fire, and auto-ignition points

- low volatility

- non-corrosive and non-toxic

Synthetic lubricants have been in use for some time in applications such

as jet engine lubrication, Arctic lubricants, and fire resistant hydraulic

fluids. These applications tolerate the extremely high cost of synthetics

because they are the only products which can do the job. Synthetic

lubricants are now beginning to replace conventional petroleum

lubricants in some applications. Despite their much higher purchase

price synthetics may offer operating advantages that can make them

more economical in the long run. (For example, reduced oil

consumption, longer oil life, improved fuel economy, and easier starting

at low temperatures).

 

Hope this cuts through the general rubbish that's talked about oils!

 

Cheers

Simon

Ok, so Millers recommend 10w-60 for highly stressed race and competition engines but my question is............

 

How do they square this recommendation with the viscosities mentioned in the lubricants reports I posted in this thread?

 

I assume by their comments that it's not recommended for "road cars"?

 

Cheers

Simon

Paul C you use Semi Syn and you need a new turbo/s?

 

Mac you use RS10-60 and you got a cracked piston land, although it was nothing to do with the oil.

 

Duff again uses RS10-60 and engine RIP!

 

CJ had a knacked engine and if he had his zed serviced at SE nissan, I presume he put RS10-60 in it?

 

Also making a presumption so correct me if I am wrong, but didn't 51x have a rebuild and also use RS10-60?

 

Stuart cracked piston and used RS10-60?

 

Jock you use Magnatec and if I remember right you had an engine rebuild?

 

I don't think I ever had an engine for long enough to change the oil. :D

 

But seriously folks...

 

Someone asked about Valvoline - Phil at C&S swears by it, and 10/40 at that.

 

Surely competition oils are a different proposition, because you expect to change them after every event - not after 3000 miles of road use.

 

(BTW You think you've got problems - try getting hold of 5w30 like what I need.)

One reason already given for using the 10/60 over 10/40 for High performance / Modified and Competion engines is that the oil can cope better with Fuel Dilution. This occurs because some fuel will always get passed the rings and into the sump. This especially occurs on Turbo cars which have higher compression than normal aspirated engines, when the turbo is on boost.

[/leigh]

 

Hum, not sure about that... surely this applies to rotaries if it applies to anything, and you put 5/30 in those!

Zevans,

 

Is that your RX8?

 

I have one too (have had for 12 months now) and loving it! 5w-30 it is.

 

Fuel Dilution - The Chemists View!

 

If the fuel metering is properly set up fuel dilution is not a problem. Remember, no matter how much turbocharging is used, compression in a petrol engine must always stay below levels that can cause pre-ignition, so the piston rings don’t really have a problem. Compression in the humblest turbo diesel white van is about three times as much as in a McLaren F1 or anything else petrol engined! I actually measure fuel dilution myself in the lab (I don’t just talk about it!) and it is rarely a problem.The one exception is some rally engines with crude ‘anti-lag’ systems which feed fuel to the exhaust side of the turbo impeller to keep it spinning when the throttle is closed. But these are rare, fortunately!

 

John Rowland (Chief R&D Chemist - Silkolene)

 

Cheers

Simon

Fuel always get passed the rings, because not all fuel is burnt, and there is no such thing as a perfect seal between the rings, and the bore.

 

So fuel dilution is a problem all cars have, including diesels which suffer more than petrol. Hence the reason for diesel oils to contain a detergent.

 

Also Nissan themselves do not recommend a 5 grade oil. So why anyone would use one doesn't make sense as its too thin for the engine.

 

If you want to stick with a 10/40 then fine, but for added protection then use the 10/60.

 

A competition oil is even better for a road car as the oil is designed to handle continuous use at maximum revs for the duration of a race. As Millers recommended the oil is good for everyday use and track days.

 

Leigh.