Please can someone advise on what enfine and gearbox oil to use for my 1993 t/t. I use it for short journey to work and weekends for kicking my mates supras ass ha ha . I am bit confused as so many advices on what one to use . am i right in thinking 15-50 is right fully synthetic?? and what about gearbox and diff.

 

Also how easy it to change rear diff oil and front diff oil ( or is it part of engine??) and the gearbox oil ?? Also where can i go to get amounts to put in.

 

Help !!! :mac1:

 

The car in question has tapping when hot or cold, when used with castrol RS, yet other owners of the same vehicle recommended Castrol RS.

 

This identifies a fault with this particular EVO, as the lifters where not recieveing oil. This is probably due to clogged oil galleries in the lifters. An Oil flush would have removed this, as has running the EVO on thin oil.

 

Leigh.

 

Think this is the same for mine, sounds like a nail whan cold, so try an oil flush first then????

You can tell it was Guy Fawkes night, what does it say about light the blue touch paper :D

 

Guys let me play Devils advocate here, if you will entertain me!

 

Paul C you use Semi Syn and you need a new turbo/s?

 

Mac you use RS10-60 and you got a cracked piston land, although it was nothing to do with the oil.

 

Duff again uses RS10-60 and engine RIP!

 

CJ had a knacked engine and if he had his zed serviced at SE nissan, I presume he put RS10-60 in it?

 

Also making a presumption so correct me if I am wrong, but didn't 51x have a rebuild and also use RS10-60?

 

Stuart cracked piston and used RS10-60?

 

Jock you use Magnatec and if I remember right you had an engine rebuild?

 

Guys don't take this personally and if I am incorrect I apologise, but these are just a list of people off the top of my head, God knows how many more are out there :cry:

Sorry mate but thats *****cks IMHO:D choice of oil did NOT crack my Piston it was down to 12 years of age and running 1bar of boost.Each to their own and we are free to use whatever oil we want and i WONT use anything else but CastrolRS 10/60.

 

 

90% agree, however the oil also conducts the heat from the pistons and rings to the bore walls to be taken away by the coolant, so you may have seen a few more miles from those stockers on a different oil. I'm not saying that IS the case, just a possibility ;) Oh yeah I use RS 10/60 too ;)

Semi synth (supposedly) 'bakes' a laquer onto the turbo shaft, reducing the oil flow through the turbo, thereby causing failure over time....

90% agree, however the oil also conducts the heat from the pistons and rings to the bore walls to be taken away by the coolant, so you may have seen a few more miles from those stockers on a different oil. I'm not saying that IS the case, just a possibility ;) Oh yeah I use RS 10/60 too ;)

 

Well looking at the state of your engine mate I guess you used GOOSE FAT :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :D;) semi fully or vege?:D

:tongue: Sorry Andy will have to add you to the "I use RS10-60 and my engine blew up list" :D

Mine was exceptional circumstances though - ie practically unlimitted boost. Point taken though :D

Please can someone advise on what enfine and gearbox oil to use for my 1993 t/t. I use it for short journey to work and weekends for kicking my mates supras ass ha ha . I am bit confused as so many advices on what one to use . am i right in thinking 15-50 is right fully synthetic?? and what about gearbox and diff.

 

Also how easy it to change rear diff oil and front diff oil ( or is it part of engine??) and the gearbox oil ?? Also where can i go to get amounts to put in.

 

Help !!! :mac1:

 

Synthetics are better - much better - in the engine (and in the gearbox and diff.) The first number in the grade is the viscosity when the oil is cold and the second when it is hot. A low first number means it is not thick and will easily flow cold around the engine - here "0" is best, the second number should be about 35 or 40, anything above saps power and is too thick - you want a free flowing oil in a modern engine like a Z - that is unless it's worn. So a 0-40 is probably ideal unless its real cold then maybe a 0-35, synthetic of course. I am told to steer clear of the Shell Helix range - they are cheaper too. Go Castrol, Mobil or Pennzoil, or choose another major. Castrol is preferred by ppl that know. Some tests in the US indicate some smaller (US) firms also make excellent oils - better than the majors - whether they are worth it is another matter - you can research this further on the 'net if you want.

Gearbox oils - you need to research the effects of oils on ease of gear change. Good synthetics can help make changes much easier, even with worn synchros. Thick oil makes changes harder, thin oil makes them easier (but can create wear), something like a synthetic 70-90 is normal. Diff - use a good quality synthetic. Don't try to save on gearbox or diff oil - it's going to be in there a hell of a while.

Cheers Jaques in Oz

:tongue: Sorry Andy will have to add you to the "I use RS10-60 and my engine blew up list" :D

 

Come on then matey what have you used in your Z over the years? before you bought new pistons for it:D:D;)

Come on then matey what have you used in your Z over the years? before you bought new pistons for it:D:D;)

 

No mate, the pistons were for the donor engine for my Turbo conversion of my convertible, the engine was bought already broken :D

ok fair enough,but what oil?

LOL that is my secret mate :D

 

It is a brand secretly cooked up for me in Japan by Samurai Warriors and Shaolin Monks :x:

LOL that is my secret mate :D

 

It is a brand secretly cooked up for me in Japan by Samurai Warriors and Shaolin Monks :x:

 

ROFL :rofl: Is it any good for chips?

ROFL :rofl: Is it any good for chips?

 

 

No it goes down a treat on Peking Duck :D

Well it lasted for over 12 years mate so I dont think I chose the wrong oil,now I am no EXPERT but PeterR is and he told me it was down to age and the boost I was running;)

 

Be that as it may, but SE no longer use that oil AND there are rumours that the spec has changed since it was first introduced. 60w is too thick for a (stock) engine that isn't supposed to use greater than 40w, never used it, never will.

 

Still on original turbos, at 80,000m, running nearly 1 bar on supermarket fuel for the past 50,000 miles.

Be that as it may, but SE no longer use that oil AND there are rumours that the spec has changed since it was first introduced. 60w is too thick for a (stock) engine that isn't supposed to use greater than 40w, never used it, never will.

 

Still on original turbos, at 80,000m, running nearly 1 bar on supermarket fuel for the past 50,000 miles.

 

 

I know that and the reason for it is..........................................

 

They have had trouble getting it,I have Always used it and I always will;) rumours can lead to all kinds of things,and NO WAY would I beleive any info from an oil rep that sells another product.

Here is the Lubricants report for the Z31, Z32 to follow:

 

Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX (Z31), 1984-1989

Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan

Drive type: r.w.d.

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Power output: 162 HP/119 kW at 5200 Rpm

 

Engine VG30E

Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., liquid cooled

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Capacity: 4 liter

Filter capacity: 0.4 liter

Use: Normal

Change 10000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Above -20 API: SE SAE 10W-30

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-40

Above -20 API: SE SAE 10W-50

Above -20 API: SE SAE 15W-50

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-30

Above -20 API: SE SAE 10W-40

Above -20 API: SF SAE 10W-50

Above -20 API: SF SAE 15W-50

 

Under severe operating conditions: change every 5000 km or 3 months.

 

Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler.

 

Differential, rear, (4x2)

Capacity: 1.3 liter

Use: Normal

Check 10000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90

Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90

Below 30 API: GL-5 SAE 80W

Below 10 API: GL-5 SAE 75W

 

Transmission, automatic

Automatic

Capacity: 7 liter

Gears forward: 4

Gears reverse: 1

Use: Normal

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Dexron IIE -

 

Transmission, manual

Manual

Capacity: 1.9 liter

Gears forward: 5

Gears reverse: 1

Use: Normal

Check 10000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Below 40 API: GL-4 SAE 80W-90

Below 40 API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90

Below 30 API: GL-4 SAE 80W

 

For cold and warm areas: 75W-90 for transmission and 80W-90 for differential carrier are preferable. For hot areas: 90 is suitable for ambient temperatures below 40 degrees Celsius.

 

Power steering

Capacity: 0.9 liter

Use: Normal

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Dexron IIE -

 

Hydraulic brakes system

Use: Normal

Change 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 -

 

Hydraulic clutch system

Use: Normal

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 -

 

Cooling system

Capacity: 11 liter

Use: Normal

Change 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) -

 

Cheers

Simon

Here's the Z32

 

 

Nissan, 300 ZX, 300 ZX Twin Turbo (Z32), 1990-1991

Manufacturer: Nissan Motors Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan

Drive type: r.w.d.

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Power output: 282 HP/208 kW at 6400 Rpm

 

Engine VG30DETT

Petrol, 4-stroke, 6 cilinder, V, 4 valves/cil., Turbo, liquid cooled

Cilinder capacity: 2960 cc

Capacity: 3.4 liter

Filter capacity: 0.4 liter

Use: Normal

Change 10000 km/6 months

 

OEM recommendation

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-30

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-40

Above -20 API: SG SAE 10W-50

Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-40

Above -20 API: SG SAE 15W-50

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-30

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-40

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 10W-50

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-40

Above -20 CCMC G4 SAE 15W-50

 

Under severe operating conditions: change every 5000 km or 3 months.

 

Capacity including oil filter and oil cooler.

 

Differential, rear, (4x2)

Capacity: 2.1 liter

Use: Normal

Check 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 80W-90

Below 40 API: GL-5 SAE 75W-90

 

Transmission, automatic

Automatic

Capacity: 8.7 liter

Gears forward: 4

Gears reverse: 1

Use: Normal

Check 20000 km/12 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Dexron IIE -

 

Transmission, manual

Manual

Capacity: 3.1 liter

Gears forward: 5

Gears reverse: 1

Use: Normal

Check 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round API: GL-4 SAE 75W-90

 

Power steering

Capacity: 1.3 liter

Use: Normal

Check 20000 km/12 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Dexron IIE -

 

Capacity of models with HICAS: 2 l. Top up only.

 

Hydraulic brakes/clutch system

Use: Normal

Check 20000 km/12 months

Change 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Brake fluid, DOT 3 -

 

Grease points/nipples

Use: Normal

Check 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Lithium base multipurpose grease NLGI No. 2

 

Cooling system

Capacity: 10 liter

Use: Normal

Change 40000 km/24 months

 

OEM recommendation

year-round Water with antifreeze (ethylene glycol base) -

 

That's the lot, it's now up to you whether you ignore good advice, it's your car and your money - not mine.

 

Cheers

Simon

Nissan lubricant have been outdated long ago.

We can do much better now - they never had synthetic oil technology then.

The whole thing need to be re-written

Just my liitle 'ol view - and remember I drive a Lada!

Jaques

well read all them threads and still dont no wot to make of it. i'm using magnatec 10/40. take it that this is a semi synth then as it don't say on the tin. come on topless wot you using. crisp n dry? you cant slate the other's with out telling of your own lube

No I catergorically refuse to let any of you know what Lub I use, but it is safe with rubber :eek:

 

 

BTW in my opinion don't use Magnatec, its cheap and you are expecting it to perform in a supercar :nelson:

I am told Magnatec is very good.

Don't know about the magnetic part - especially since most of it is aluminium alloy and not really magnetic, but Mercedes would not authorise it unless it's good.

Jaques

Nissan lubricant have been outdated long ago.

We can do much better now - they never had synthetic oil technology then.

The whole thing need to be re-written

Just my liitle 'ol view - and remember I drive a Lada!

Jaques

 

Yes that is correct but the required viscosities do not change.

 

The fact that you have a choice on quality today is a good thing (Synthetics have been available for the car market for nearly 30 years by the way) but the Manufacturers recommended viscosities are better followed than not.

 

This is the point I have been trying to make but unfortunaltely the Customer's always right even when he's wrong so "I'll get me coat!"

 

Cheers

Simon

The point you make about "synthetics being available for nearly 30 years" needs to be clarified - they were not affordable until recently!

Synthetics are superior and much preferred to normal oil.

No one is saying the viscosity range need to be changed but synthetic oil technology has changed that too. Whoever saw a 0-40 oil years ago. Syhthetics have much better viscosity properties too.

There is no need to adhere to the Nissan advice that was written long ago - you just need good up-to-date oil advice.

Cheers

Agreed if you are talking about the synthetics vs petroleum oils argument as it's a "no brainer" in favour of synthetics. There is however a need to adhere to the Manufacturers recommended viscosities which are available in all types of basestocks.

 

Personally I would not recommend anything else in a high performance car especially if it's modified or being used on the track.

 

Cheers

Simon