Ok I've had the Z for about three weeks now and everything has been going fine up untill now!

 

The last day or two i've noticed that every now and again I get get a wiff of petrol - just a bit, and If i pull over open the bonnet and have a sniff its gone.

 

That hasn't been too worring but....

 

Today when I tried to start her - she didn't want to know

 

when I tried the Starter motor turned over ok and it sounded like it wanted to start but couldn't. I did this for a while and tried pumping the gas (usually don't have to touch the throttle) but nothing

after a while I could smell petrol so I stopped left it for about an 2 hours and then tried again.

 

This time it started but unless I gave it a bit of throttle it would just hunt between 0 - 750 rpm and then stall

 

I don't know if this makes any difference (probely not) but today the weathers been roasting and the car's been on the drive in the sun all day.

 

I'll try again in the morning but if anyone has any ideas or can suggest what to check I'd be greatfull

 

Mike :confused:

if the car is wiffing of petrol and you have been giving a lot of pressure to the pedal then you would have flooded the car

 

1/check ecu for codes

2/decompress fuel systym check fuel filter,lines etc

3/is there a buzzing noise when you turn the key to on if so then you could possibly rule out fuel pump

 

im not an expert but the smell of fuel then car wont start sounds fuel not going where its meant to :)

The car could be flooded

 

Dont know about the 300zx but my previous car's (200sx S13 and 200sx S14a) flooded a few times. All you havge to do is remove the fuel pump fuse turn ignition key and then put fuel pump fuse back in and hey presto she starts.

 

Again this is from my previous 200sx so dont know if it works on the 300zx

cheers for the advice

 

Have checked the ECU codes

and its giving codes 12 & 13 (MAS & Engine coolant temp sensor)

 

so I've cleaned the Engine temp sensor and the air flow meter connectors

 

is the air flow meter sensor (right by the Filter)and the MAS the same thing?

 

it seems to be running ok again now but the codes are still present

 

does this mean that if I run it there's a chance that it will overheat? :confused:

 

by the way Thank god for this site!!! :bow:

one more thing my temperature guage appears to be working??

although it always goes from cold gradually to half way maybee a touch over and never seems to move above that, does that sound about right??

 

If it is working ok why would i get the error code 13??

or is that something different? :confused:

There are 2 temp gauges. The little black one opperates the dash temperature gauge. The larger yellow one is the one which sends information to the ECU. If that is faulty, then the car wont run and when you do manage to get it running it will run like a bag of shité and you will struggle to keep it from stalling. Take the sensor out and give it a clean, also clean the connectors of the wire. This may help. If not goto Nissan and get a new one.

You havent took a feed from the sensor wire have you? I did that and it caused the car to run bad.

 

The MAS problem wont stop your car from working, (unless it is not attached) but if faulty will cause the engine not to rise above 2000rpm I think (or could be 3000rpm) We call it get me home mode. Again, unplug it and give the connectors a good clean with some WD40 and if there are deposits on it, file them off with a nail file.

Ive cleaned the sensors/connectors and it appears to be running ok

Idling ok can rev above 2000rpm

 

but I still have the codes on the ECU???

WTF :confused:

You have to reset the ECU codes. Disconnect the battery for 20 mins or so. If I was you I would reset the WHOLE ECU, by disconnecting the battery for 2 hours or so.

 

I suggest resetting the whole ECU.

 

Stuart

cheers stuart

 

will do the full reset :)

ok.....

 

did the full ecu reset and the codes were still there but the car was running ok..........for a about a day then same again

 

This time I was at the service station just up the road with a car that wouldn't start at 12:00pm

 

so being in the aa I though why not give them a bell and see if they can shed a bit off light on the matter or at least get me home. So after waiting about an hour and a half a breakdown truck arrives (not an AA one though)

 

The bloke got out and asked me what the problem was so I explained.

He then tried to start the car no joy.....and again......and again....and again then got out and shone the flash light into the engine bay looked a bit puzzeled and got back in and tried to start it again.

 

This went on for about ten min or so until I stopped him and suggested that he just take me and the car home, to which he replied "that he'd have to call the aa again and request another truck as my car was an auto and couldn't be towed :mad: WTF (pissed off as I had told the AA what type of car it was when I called)

 

anyway to cut a long story short after waiting for an hour or so again the car started again and I managed to make it home (just about) before it died again

 

I've now bought a new engine temp sensor which has removed the ECU 13 code and after some advice from Jeff @ zedworld (good bloke) have come to the conlusion that I need a new MAS

 

My symptoms now are:

 

with the MAS connected engine will start from cold (or after about 1hr of rest) and run ok but once warm stalls and then won't start again till rested for 1hr or so.

 

without the MAS starts all the time cold or warm but won't rev above 2k

 

jeff seems to think that this may mean the MAS circuit is shorting once electrically warm

 

does anyone in the coventry area have a MAS that I could test on my motor to make sure it is the MAS and not the harness at fault

 

or

 

failing that does anyone have a MAS for sale???