After the problems last week, my Z was running seemingly fine all weekend, just with a bit of a rough idle.

 

Today, I started it up, and the revs needle was "bouncing" between almost stalling speed, and about 600 / 700rpm. I drove it about 200yds or so, and it just coughed and spluttered along. After going back under the bonnet and checking the coil pack connections again (which I'm still not sure if they're right) the car won't start. It'll turn over, just not catch.

 

Any suggestions?

 

So far I've cleaned just about all the connectors I can see / reach in the engine bay, reset the ECU, banged my head off several walls etc.

Check the MAF mate.

 

jase

I cleaned the connections on the MAF toward the end of last week - it may however be broken, is there any way to check this?

FSC

Fuel, spark & compression.

 

Check to make sure you are still getting fuel. May be the fuel pump packed up.

Check to see if you are still getting a spark at the crank. May be the PTU.

If both above are fine, check to make sure you have good compression in the cylinders. Compression test.

CAS connector

I cleaned the connections on the MAF toward the end of last week - it may however be broken, is there any way to check this?

 

You may need to have a look at the wire elements. If any of these are broken, it will cause a very uneven idle. DaveCC had exactly this problem with his.

Thanks for the suggestions :)

 

There are a pair of yarking greak BOVs in the way of me getting to the PTU and CAS, is it just a case of removing the BOVs and hoses as per the instructions to clean the TBs, or is there anything special I need to do when removing them?

Just reach under there - you can do it honest ;)

Hehe - perhaps I should have mentioned that I have hands the size of shovels...

 

I'll give it a go though, worst that'll happen is I'll become a bonnet ornament...

Just had a go at the PTU and CAS connectors - there's no way I can get at them (with the size of my hands) without removing the pipes with the BOVs on - I tried giving them a wiggle but when I went to try to start it up (on the off-chance), all I got was the starter motor clicking away rapidly.

 

I assume this is down to a flat / weak battery. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition, if that's any help.

 

Is it simply a case of removing the hoses with the BOVs to get to the PTU / CAS connectors (I'll clean the TBs while I'm on if it is the case), or do I need to do anything else, with the BOVs being there?

Just had the AA around to recharge battery. Car fires up straight away now, but after about 10 seconds, will splutter until it stalls unless the throttle is applied.

 

AA Mechanic said that it was definetly running on 5 cylinders at most.

my rough idle was a corroded tps conector, gave it a clean and wooo hooo roberts your mums brother