There've been quite a few graphs posted over time and all the engines seem to run out of steam at about 7k rpm ish.

 

What's the factory spec rev limit and what can you reasonably take them to with modding internals etc ?

 

I was watching Top gear the other night and Vicki B-H mentioned that the Honda S2000 didn't get into it's stride until 8,000 rpm !!! Or I may have mis-heard that bit :D

 

I bet the Z would wail like a banshee at 8-10,000 rpm !!!!!

 

Mark

 

I was watching Top gear the other night and Vicki B-H mentioned that the Honda S2000 didn't get into it's stride until 8,000 rpm !!! Or I may have mis-heard that bit :D

 

I bet the Z would wail like a banshee at 8-10,000 rpm !!!!!

 

Mark

 

I'd make her wail like a banshee too! ;) ;) :hyper: :D

 

And yes, she's right, the S2000 has a right screamer of an engine. VVTI and all that. It red-lines at just over 9000 rpm IIRC

 

I also think that a Z32 engine wouldn't wail at 10,000rpm, it'd go BOOM! :( :eek:

No need increasing the rev limit with stock turbos. They just can't flow enough air for >7k rpm, which is why you see the graph tail off... If you look at a chart from a car running, say 15psi, you'll see the graph start falling off as low as 5500rpm due to the turbos effectively starting to choke the engine... Above ~8500rpm you'll need to uprate the valve train and be looking at a fully balanced bottom end too....

Do you think hydraulic lifters will cope with 8.5k then duff?

 

Mmm, now much are solid lifters do you know?

The red line is set at about 7200rpm on stock engines, most aftermarket chips will incease this to about 7500rpm. I think 51x is running somewhere in the region of an 8500rpm limiter.

Erm they're gonna be *right* on the limit around that I'd have thought...

 

Lookin for lifters now for you :D

I've got mine set to 7750rpm with 555cc injectors.

You're right in as much as you're better changing up sooner, but I want to keep it out of the way incase I hit it in a 2nd gear corner or something where you REALLY don't want an upshift or cut.

Lookin for lifters now for you :D

 

Good lad.

I've got uprated springs too, I guess that must have an effect on the lifties.

Well the uprated springs should get rid of the valve bounce so thats one aspect sorted :)

 

Are they the same lifters as the VG30??? In which case, same price :D

yes the VG30DETT and the CA18DET have the same lifters. Oh will need a big bag of shims too. :rolleyes:

 

Probably the same springs too, I'm getting them made.:)

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e097_v-lifter.html

 

There ya go bud :) Same as the ones in the RB26 and the VG30 - happy days :D

RB25 actually dude. ;)

 

I wanted cheap ones, not overpriced Jap ones.

Waht are they made out of, has anyone got one I can borrow? :)

I know I'll just weld the hydraulic ones up. :hyper:

LOL sorry was reading the line above LOL Pedantic twat :D

 

I'll find you some plastic ones then m8 - in fact, why not just superglue a few 2 pence pieces together? :p :D

You can actually get theese to work with hydraulic cam profiles, aparently it makes shimming them even harder.

I'm going to scout round to see how cheap I can find a set LOL.

Found a set of 24 Tomei lifters for $553.

 

The VG srpings and retainers are the same as the CA too.

Do you know anyone that does titanium retainers for the VG?

SPL Parts?? They do almost anything. If not I have a friend in Japan who might be able to get some stuff like that.

LOL that price up there was from SPL. :)

I might look at getting some made, probably cheaper.

Found a place in the states that will do them for $20 each but that doesn't sound too cheap.

 

I think Jun might be the only people that do them, Tomei, Toda or HKS don't.

I've got mine set to 7750rpm with 555cc injectors.

You're right in as much as you're better changing up sooner, but I want to keep it out of the way incase I hit it in a 2nd gear corner or something where you REALLY don't want an upshift or cut.

 

That's a good reason... I hadn't thought of that. The shift point is about 6800 / 6900 on most of the power curves I've seen 'ere. 2nd - 3rd is in a bleedin awkward place for a lot of B-roads innit :(

That's a good reason... I hadn't thought of that. The shift point is about 6800 / 6900 on most of the power curves I've seen 'ere. 2nd - 3rd is in a bleedin awkward place for a lot of B-roads innit :(

 

Yeah does seem to be sometimes. Generally best just to use the torque and slug through it that way but sometimes you need the lower gear for breaking on the way in.

slow revs and torque any day over screaming and none - the stock zed has about 275 pounds foot against the S2000's 150 pounds foot.

 

Torque talks!

Hairdressers already have enough talk as it is. :D

'Going anywhere nice on holiday?"

slow revs and torque any day over screaming and none - the stock zed has about 275 pounds foot against the S2000's 150 pounds foot.

 

Torque talks!

 

If you look at the torque at the wheels, which is after all what makes the car go forward, you will find the gap is not so large as it looks between the two... shorter final drive and shorter and closer ratios, AND you can stay in the gear longer because the redline is higher.

 

RX8 for example has 159lb-ft - but by coincidence the test drive route was pretty much my commute which I sometimes do in the Z, so I had a direct comparison on roads I knew well. There really wasn't much in it until the top of mway speeds when it did start to run out of legs - the Z is much better for Vectra-baiting. :D But booting it across the moors at 70-90 mph the RX8 will be way better and easier to get the best out of.

 

BTW I didn't bother test driving a 2000 because the cockpit was bloody awful.

ROFL @ Duff & Jezz :D

 

Was doing a search for "Hydraulic lifters" and came accross this post!

 

LOL