Anyone know what the type of gas is used for the Air CON?....

The original gas will have been R12, but as far as I know it is illegal to refill with this because of the environmental impact of the stuff.

 

I think that you can get a recharge with R134a. Doesn't get quite as cold, but it's still cold enough for the temperatures that we get here. Whoever fill it should add a mineral oil to stop leakage through the compressor seals which will have been designed to handle the R12. When I had minne last done a couple of years ago they also changed the drier

The original gas will have been R12, but as far as I know it is illegal to refill with this because of the environmental impact of the stuff.

 

I think that you can get a recharge with R134a. Doesn't get quite as cold, but it's still cold enough for the temperatures that we get here. Whoever fill it should add a mineral oil to stop leakage through the compressor seals which will have been designed to handle the R12. When I had minne last done a couple of years ago they also changed the drier

 

YGM, thanks for the info.

Think it was R416 - some kind of drop in replacement for R12 that went into mine plus synthetic ester lub. The guy said to use R134a was not correct as the drier and other bits would have to be changed and it was also not as efficient in an R12 system. Maybe just his opinion but it still works fine after 2 years and I had him do my other R134 car as well last summer.

. The guy said to use R134a was not correct as the drier and other bits would have to be changed and it was also not as efficient in an R12 system.

 

no need, no neeeeeed!!

 

R134a is fine with the proper conversion kit. (which reminds me, iv got to see if iv got any left at work for someone :))

 

replacing the drier, condensor seals etc etc was a very old & outdated way of thinking & is now not ness with the new kits on the market (which weve fitted quite a few of over the years)

 

& while its technically not as efficient as the old R12 youd be hard pressed to tell the difference in practice.

 

id be more concerned if the gas your guy used needed synthetic oil because thats the whole problem with converting to R134a!!!! the old R12 oil (mineral) doesnt dissolve in R134a because it uses synthetic oil. this causes it to turn to jelly which can bugger up the system (lubrication probs, clog the expansion valve etc)

 

if you get the chance, syphon some refrigerant into a container then drop the correct oil in (use goggles ;)) - it fizzes a bit & the oil dissolves completely. then drop the incorrect type in - yukky globs of oil in the refigerant!!

 

(ps - if you need a kit drop me a line & i'll see if iv got 2 kits at work :) )

Paul

Well its worked OK for 2 summers and No3 coming up. The fact that he vacuumed it for ages to purge it first, does that not help? He said it would boil off any residual stuff inside. He also put in flourescent dye so any leaks would show up easier. Maybe I'm wrong about the lub type. The guy was only doing aircon, his own business, and serving loads of dealers as well.

This is all VERY confusing! I have had my Z for 6 months (happy boy!) & think the aircon needs recharging. I have received so much conflicting advice!!!

I have been quoted £500+ to convert ("retrofit") to R134a. I believe this is cos it includes changing various expensive hoses that R134a would otherwise leak through (being a smaller molecule than R12). I have also been quoted £125 to do the conversion, by people who have mentioned changing seals but NOT the hoses. Not sure who to believe - is the first option a rip-off or the second a bodge-job?

The hardest thing has been to find anyone who can recharge with an R12-compatible substitute (known as a "drop-in" cos no conversion is needed.) Apparently they need not just the gas, but also the correct connectors to attach to the R12-style inlet valves. [These are deliberately made incompatible with R134a connectors to prevent use of wrong gas in any given system]. I have now found a guy who will do this for £85. His opinion is the drop-in (R143) is specifically designed to work in an R12 system & the only sensible alternative to R12. Of course the advocates of R134a say that drop-ins are not intended for car systems, can eat your rubber hoses etc etc etc. They all seem to have vested interests (of course). I have now decided to go with the drop-in R12 substitute (R143). If it causes a problem I will post again.

I believe this is cos it includes changing various expensive hoses that R134a would otherwise leak through (being a smaller molecule than R12). I have also been quoted £125 to do the conversion, by people who have mentioned changing seals but NOT the hoses. .

 

 

PMSL!!!!!!! no really am PMSL!!!! :rofl:

 

the gas will leak through the hoses cos it has a smaller molecule!! LMAO!! whoever told you that needs shooting!!

 

right - im gonna print off some paperwork & post it on here tonight regarding converting to R134a

 

still LMFAO!! :rofl:

right - new FAQ ;)