code 34 has appeared since I cleaned my throttle bodies. On reading previous posts it seems it could be the connector, wiring can anyone tell me what the connector looks like & where it is??. By the way I checked it when fully warm & I'm sure it's not gone into saftey boost still boosting past the last mark but one???..

cheerZZZZZ Jon..

Hi ya mate, code 34 means the detination circuit is open or shorted. check harness / connector and sensor,Try removing power from ecu for an hour or so se if it resets apparently this is a pain in the ass sensor to change but there are some trick ways around it I believe.I`d guess its a coincidence with cleaning the throttle bodies. Jeff TT

Thanks to Henri:

 

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

I'm about to have a look at the connector but upon driving the car it's not in safety boost as far as I can tell, the gauge is reading normal on boost at mark below 14 & the performance feels the same????

OK had a look at the connector, the pins are very clean. On the male side to the ecu (using a meter) I have no reading on either pins i.e open circuit.

On the the sensor side I have 3 ohms on 1 wire & on the other wire I have opencircuit as well. On looking at the link above it says I should have 500 kohms on the ecu side and about 1meg to the sensor. Not to sure what to do???

Anybody know how or where to replace the wires to the ecu or is it just a case of following the wires back????

If anyone can shed light it would be very welcome, cheers Jon..

Hangon - you said it boosts to the mark below 14.. Not being able to remember where that is on a Jap guage - is that standard boost, or do you have a boost controller?

 

If you have a boost controller then the stock solenoids are disconnected and you'll never go into safety 'boost' because the ECU can't alter the boost..

 

However your timing will still be retarded (harder to tell that)...

 

Just a thought..

 

I believe there are two connectors in the det. sensor circuit? Anyone confirm?

 

Az

 

------------------

Yes.. I know my back wheels *were* on backwards.. They're not now, 'k? ;)

I meant the 14 psi as indicated by the gauge, my car is a UK TT.. Would anyone suggest I check the timing then as well???????

cheerZZ

Jon....

Im rolling up my sleeves to talk to you about safety boost......

 

Glen.

Uh oh - which one of us Glen!? And why are ya rolling up yer sleeves!

 

Jonny - well 14psi boost aint stock, you didn't say if it's got a boost controller or boost jets, so I'll assume boost jets.. In that case the boost should still drop a bit assuming your car behaves like US & Euro's - not all cars seem to go into safety boost..

Checking the timing under boost is er... hard! So no

 

See if you can find the cause of the code 34 though.. Always best to be showing code 55...

 

Az

Glen what do you mean by that?????

'Az' as far as I know my car is a completely standard UK TT, no boost controller, no jets

what I mean about the gauge is by whats outlined in the tech section opposite about buying a 'Z' and as to where the boost gauge should rear to..

Jon.

Jonny,

 

as been said many times here before, the stock gauge is crap! I have a boost controller on mine which I believe is 100% accurate. When the controller is off and am at around 7psi my stock gauge shows around 12-13 psi. This just goes to show how much the stock gauge can be out. If you have no boost controller and your getting code 34, then I think your car WOULD be in safety - I think.............

 

Vijay

If ecu shows error code .it can only sense open or closed cerc faults.therefor check the sensor connections and wiring etc.

I have never seen a z in safety boost?

just keep in mind the actual fault .

you will most likely find the knock sensor loom

broken .

Dazz.

 

 

Never mind what your stock boost gauge reads mate, it is irrelevant at this point. If you are getting error 34 on ECU Diag then you are going to be getting a safety boost situation.

It is a pisser of humongous magnitude.

It simply means your ECU 'senses' rightly or wrongly, that your detonation sensor is fucked.

All that stuff Henri wrote is absolutely spot on and I cant fault him for it.... but.. dont bother with the multimeter tests as such (mine were all over the place and I was just messing around to see if it worked ) - follow the instructions for removing the det sensor connector and bang the one megohm resistor in there, this will then show you an ECU Diag 55. Then put the harness back and ECU diag will show 34 again.

And i'm sorry at this point you need to appreciate the fact that you either

A] need to pull the engine (or at least the Plenum and lots of ancillary ball ache bits) and replace the Det sensor or

B] bypass the det sensor (yeahhh go for it, thats what i'd do)

 

Obviously none of this advice takes account of the fact that your det sensor may have an on and off problem and also the fact that I talk bollocks at this time of nite

 

Peace

 

Glen