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Quick question if the above error codes are permantly present I presume that the car will be in permanent safety boost

 

34 = det sensor

42 = Fuel temp circuit

 

Ryan

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Whatever it is I strongly suggest you turn the bleed valves right down until you sort the error codes out. They should screw clockwise to turn the boost down....

Wise words - it seems the right thing to play it safe until I get the codes sorted. Problem is that I've now got a taste for the power. It's like trying to take a toy off a kid. Maybe I'll just drive slowly until I get it booked in...

Wise words - it seems the right thing to play it safe until I get the codes sorted. Problem is that I've now got a taste for the power. It's like trying to take a toy off a kid. Maybe I'll just drive slowly until I get it booked in...

 

Well its your engine. Error codes are there for a reason. Certain conditions are created when the engine detects certain faults - it does this to protect itself. Remove its ability to do this and you run a chance of high repair bills when it goes bang. Running retarded ignition increases EGTs (exhaust gas temperature). Running higher boost increases EGTs also. Now your running retarded ignition with higher boost - possibility that you'll burn your exhaust valves... Like I say, its your engine ;)

And with code 42 it'll run dead rich at low revs, unless you disconnect the PVPR system.

 

I thought that the fuel temp sensor only increased fuel pressure when the fuel is hot to avoid vapour lock on hot starts. Is this not the case? The manual seems to indicate that if the sensor is not functioning the ECU assumes a fixed value.

I thought that the fuel temp sensor only increased fuel pressure when the fuel is hot to avoid vapour lock on hot starts. Is this not the case? The manual seems to indicate that if the sensor is not functioning the ECU assumes a fixed value.

 

It does, but I think the value it assmues is > than the point where it opens the solenoid. I know certainly Vinz's car ran really rich on idle when his was knackered.

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay guys - went over to Ryan's to see what the boost was from a 'proper' gauge. His went up to 10 PSI max. We measured it and it went of the scale. So, it's definately over 7psi. Fiddled about with the valves and found the spot where it was running just under 10 (i.e. where we could safely know what it was running at). Ryan's getting another (higher range) gauge for us to set it at accurate higher levels.

 

So, the car's running with code 34 (i.e. in "safety mode), but the boost is up to whatever I set it (i.e. is not limited to 7psi). No matter what, I'll have to get the car sorted out in terms of the error codes.

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