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Wow! What a difference it made. The movment of the accelerator pedal is so smooth and the car just runs perfectly. The responce of the engine is twice as fast, even to say that the car is slightly faster. Taking her for a spin and there is no jerk from the car when I suddenly put my foot down, and the car wheel spun about 500rpm earlier than normal.

If you have not done it do it.

 

Stuart

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Thanks for that smile.gif

It was a job I have been 'getting round' to doing for some time, getting slight hesistation and can feel my throttle biting unevenly.

You have inspired me to get it sorted.

Ill do it tomorrow so its bound to rain! smile.gif

 

 

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bat%20logo.jpg

Glen

http://www.300zx.co.uk/rides/senna/

This is a job which probably has the best improvement for the time spent as long as your car has done a 'few' miles smile.gif The throttle bodies clog up around the butterflies due to the crankcase gases being vented into the intake to be burnt off. Basically you get a sludgy vapour which settles around the butterly flaps and builds up around the edges effectively choking the engine at small throttle openings. One thing that MUST be remembered is to leave the battery disconnected for around half an hour to reset the ecu. This will put it back into self-learn mode so it can relearn the airflow characteristics of the throttle chambers etc.... For a full rundown go to :-

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/tb/tb.html

 

Enjoy.....

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Sometimes it makes such a difference that you have to reset the tickover afterwards. The instruction for that are at www.z-car.net

  • Author

Yeah, dont forget to disconnect the battery while you do it. It takes about 4-5 attempts to start your engine.

Even more if you dont reconnect it again

 

[This message has been edited by SRRAE (edited 21-08-2001).]

Sun was shining right up my throttle body direction so I had a go and guess what the tubes came off no bother. Sure enough sooty and oily round the butterflys but a toothbrush and throttle cleaner and louds of muck and rags and they soon shone. Tougher getting the tubes back on as the throttle body end was a bit chewed up and brittle on both. Still seems no air leaks. Anyway rock steady idle now but a bit fast at 1000rpm. Yep did the battery disconnect thing and now I understand it can take a couple of hundred miles for the idle to slow back down.

Probably took less than an hour. Choke and carb cleaner £3.99.

If the idle does not return to normal, pull off the hoses on the IAA unit and spray in throttle body cleaner to break up the carbon. Adjust the idle using a flathead afterwards.

 

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Later,

Phuong - EatRiceZone.com

Phuong

Thanks for that. Will take a look cos its ticking at 1200rpm with the aircon running due to the pick up on revs when air is on.

Willie

Thanks guys. I found the IAA and idle adjust screw. Now ticking over slow and smooth. Boy but there is not much room for even a short screwdriver with the battery right there.

Willie

hi...why do you need to disconnect the battery?...

 

if you disconnect the battery,...will the cd/radio system ask for some sort of security code....(I have to old original system uk stock car...never chenged...but I have no codes)...

 

what about my cliffor allarm?....when I reconnect batteries will it be back as normal?...or will it require some sort of button-code?

Manic - pulling the battery for 30 mins will reset the ECU into "learning mode", so that it will learn the flow characteristics of your newly cleaned throttle bodies (and in most cases will sort a high idle out)..

 

I believe there is a fusible link to the ECU which you can pull instead, leaving the radio and alarm untouched..

 

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Az

......or just disconnect the ecu connector.... biggrin.gif

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

As long as your Clifford is disarmed when you disconect its OK. or put it in valet mode.

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