havin trouble gettin air out of hydraulic system no pedal pressure at all

new piston/seal assembly installed

89- na- import.

are you bleeding it from both points? (slave cylinder and drivers side front arch)

hi mate.

 

If you get no joy after trying both bleed points then try a vacume pump. It was the only way I could get the air out of mine. Conect the pump to the bleed point in the drivers side arch. Ensure to keep toping up the reservior as you start to vacume, Dont want to induce more air into the system. Hope that helps.

 

Andy

For reasons that I can't be bothered to explain mine has only the single bleed point on the slave cylinder itself. In order to bleed it properly, I disconnect it from the car (it's only 2 bolts), hold the piston in place using using a clamp or something and then suspend the slave such that the bleed nipple is at the highest point. Then bleed as normal and bolt it back in place - works for me.

thanks for all the info will try again using your way(s) and ideas,

i'll let you know how i got on

why is there a bleed valve on the inner wing, is it needed or can i take it off and do with out it.

can't see what patr it plays apart from keepin air in the system :mad:

I've found the only way of bleeding the clutches on these cars is to use your thumb instead of an easybleed etc...

 

I think the problem is that:

 

1) The bleed nipple is at the bottom of the system - thats clever considering the air in the system RISES...

2) The clutch hydraulic system is of relatively small displacement so the pipes on easybleeds etc are too long and the air hasn't left before the pedal is released.

 

 

To bleed the clutch, the best method I found was as follows:

 

(NEVER work under a car without proper supports etc etc etc)

 

1) Ensure the clutch master cylinder is topped up fully.

2) Get someone to sit in the drivers seat - they are going to be pressing the clutch pedal for you.

3) Back off the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder about 3/4 turn until fluid comes out when the pedal is pressed.

4) Place your thumb over the bleed nipple and get the person to slowly depress the clutch pedal for you (be carefull no fluid squirts in your eyes - advisable to wear eye protection), keeping a slight amount of pressure on the bleed nipple at all times. You should feel the fluid squeezing out along with the tiny air bubbles. When you release the clutch pedal, there is no need to retighten the bleed nipple as your thumb will prevent any air entering. Repeat this 3 or 4 times.

5) Re-tighten the bleed nipple.

6) Check the fluid in the master cylinder, topping up as necessary.

7) Check the operation of the clutch. If still no good, repeat steps 5 onwards above until it works.

8) Once you've done the slave cylinder, its good to check the bleed nipple on the wing for any trapped air too - do this in the same manor as above.

 

 

Its also worth mentioning that the clutch must be adjusted fully out at the pedal - ie the pedal pushes the piston in the master cylinder as far as possible. If you look under the dashboard, you'll see a threaded rod going to the clutch pedal - undo the locknut and adjust the rod - it should move towards the front of the car, pushing the clutch pedal back.

thanks andy will hav a go at that when time/weather/ oh and christmas permits:duffer: