Anyone on here done it and recommend a particular brand?

 

The odd ball feeling of the rear end of the car floating that it gives is really starting to annoy me, kinda spooky when you're really pushing on, but worse at low speeds on roundabouts etc.

I would suggest you may have a worn ou HICAS arm. It can make the car feel very floaty. Worth checking the play in the rear wheels just to check as just locking the HICAS probably wont stop this happening.

No, everything's fine, I replaced most of it recently when I did the bushings and there's no play at all. It's definately a rear steer thing as you can feel a definate point where it comes in and then stops.

It was the same on my last car too, so I'm thinking it's just the normal operation of the HICAS

I think guys on Twinturbo.net have done it a few times. You'll probly get mixed replies as to the benefits of having it/removing it though!

Two thoughts...

 

Is yours an import, and if so how did you have speed conversion done? If it's the old kmh -> mph ploy then HICAS will be well confused. It'll think you're doing 30klicks when you're actually doing 30mph, which is definitely going to confuse it on roundabouts.

 

The NA doesn't have HICAS, could you just put an NA arse on it?

Fitted UK clocks, which was much better that the converter chip.

Not too sure about the NA, I'd imagine the subframe is different too. Probably be more expensive anyway. Courtesy eliminator is about £150 including taxes etc.

Sounds as though there is something wrong with your

system. The HICAS should not operate at low speeds.

The system should only move the wheels momentarily

before re-aligning and then only when your speed and

cornering justifies it.

Cant you just pull the HICAS system fuse and disable it to prove it?

 

I had the wobblies with a duff rear shocker.

 

Sideways skip on bumps - also had loads of toe in due to new HICAS arms having been fitted before I bought it and no toe in having been checked.

 

All sorted and fine for ages now

John,

 

My car, a series 3, has the electrical HICAS and it is just a case of removing the fuse (footwell). I know Stillen does the manual HICAS eliminators (shown on their site) for the series 1 & 2 - I guess this may well be the one offered by Courtesy? I believe you remove all the HICAS, saving weight, and the eliminators/plates lock the wheels.

 

Best regards

Geoff

I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong with it. Diag is all OK, bled it and changed the fluid. No wheel movement at all.

Getting a full alignment chack done at a motorsport place next week, so I'll see how it goes after that.

Might be able to disable it by pulling the connector off the solenoid, I'll check it out.

Hi John,

 

This may be a bit off the mark (can't remember where i heard/read this) ...

 

The HICAS system input comes from several places such as the speed sensor but also the steeringwheel. When you remove the steering wheel you'll find a special boss which, if not fitted i.e. when fitting an aftermarket steering wheel, confuses the HICAS. If the system detects something strange happening (input wise that is) it shuts the HICAS down and it becomes inoperative. I've also heard that if the steering wheel is not on properly centred it also confuses the HICAS system and eventually shuts it down.

 

Again, can't remember where I heard or read the above or whether it is reliable info. It sounds plausible which means removing the HICAS boss should do the trick as it eliminates one input source and therefore disables the system.

 

I think Eric/Lymon may know a fair bit more about this so I hope he'll read this and responds.

 

Please don't take the above as fact until proven so by other members/experts. Just thought I'd share this bit of info.

 

Regards,

Sorry im a bit late with this one, but i recently changed my strearing wheel and removed the hicas sensor and it does disable it, but ur HICAS warning light will come on on long straights!! (iv taken the bulb out!)