OK, unbolted the big connector from the AT ECU, then put it back in and bolted it in a little less tightly (seem to remember that from reading about ALC installations)..

 

Ran the diag again, and now there are no flashes at all ?! Depress accel. and I just get one loong flash on the AT light, then nothing.. No 10 quick flashes, nothing.. Does that mean no faults at all at all? Or did I just do the diag wrong 15 times in a row (I managed it before mind!)

 

It shifts *really* violently out of 1st now at half throttle

 

Plus, it still does this;

 

Floor it, gets to about 60, then no drive, just coasting sitting at 4000RPM.. Lift off a bit, get drive back.. It's fine accellerating gently to any speed though..

Any ideas? Sound like a shagged box?

 

Az

 

Oh yeah, and the f*cking tyre place.. have buckled the f*cking sills..

Just in case ....

 

Diagnostics –Auto gearbox (Series I and Series II)

 

· Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature

· Turn ignition off

· Set overdrive switch 'on' position

· Move selector lever to 'Park'

· Turn ignition on, but do not start engine

· The A/T light should come on for 2 seconds (if not, there is a fault with either the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kick-down switch or idle switch)

· Turn ignition off

· Move selector lever to 'Drive'

· Set overdrive switch to 'off'

· Turn ignition on, wait more than 2 seconds

· Move gear lever to '2'

· Set overdrive switch to 'on'

· Move gear lever to '1'

· Set overdrive switch to 'off'

· Press accelerator fully and release it

· Check A/T lamp which should now blink once for 2 seconds followed by 10 short flickers 1 second apart, pause then start with the 2 second blink again

 

If all short blinks are the same then no error has been detected.

If one blink is longer then the rest, count which blink is longer and it indicates which component is malfunctioning: -

 

1st blink - Revolution sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

2nd blink - Speed sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

3rd blink - Throttle sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

4th blink - Shift solenoid A circuit is short-circuited or disconnected

5th blink - Shift solenoid B circuit is short-circuited or disconnected

6th blink - Overrun clutch solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

7th blink - Lock-up solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

8th blink - Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged

9th blink - Engine revolution sensor is short-circuited or disconnected

10th blink - Line pressure solenoid is short-circuited or disconnected

 

If the light gives 1 continuous 1 second blinks with 1 second gaps then one of the following faults is present: -

· Batter power is low

· Battery has been disconnected for a long time

· Battery is connected conversely (when reconnecting A/T control unit connectors – this is not a problem)

 

If the A/T light does not come on then the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or A/T control unit is damaged

 

I expect the formatting will get screwed !

 

Smeggin' hell Az I really hope your car dont turn into an abject shitter

I dont like the sound of that violent shift business (yeah no kidding i bet you say )

Tell me this car was bought from a trader m8, if so get it back to the trader and tell him a refund might be in order.

If you bought it as advertised through the Salvage section of Autotrader (really i mean no offence there) or similar you wont have any recourse in Law.

Thing is Auto boxes and Air con subsystems cost way too much to get sorted

Good luck and please dont take what i say as me casting aspersions of your Zed, but I bought a bad one and it was CRIMINAL that the car i bought was even advertised for sale. It had so many faults i got a refund and bought one off a forum member.

Again m8, I hope all works out.

 

 

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--

Glen

http://www.300zx.co.uk/rides/senna/

Fraid I have absolutely no recourse I don't think... Private sale - off a forum member...

 

This could well make both nissan's I've owned total sh1tters..

 

Kinda driving it around waiting for the next thing to fall off now.. Keep looking at different bits of the car and noticing more bits of trim missing/damaged etc..

 

Did I have my head up my arse when I took this car out first? I think so..

 

Az

Az, get that bloody fluid flush done asap - if it is the first signs of a blocked filter you can cure the problem now without the risk of oil starvation - leave it doing its 'trick' and something could break It will cost a fair amount for all the fluid but in the long run could be cheaper than a new box

I still think you should convert to a manual box though - who was it did this before? I can't remember - I've slept since then

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Yeah - think it's back to the Renault for me for a while.. Apart from Friday - will have to nurse the Nissan to work coz Bob is coming down to fit an alarm (and I can't get the day off).. And poss thursday too..

 

Better start buying Dexron III from halfords I think (£6.98 a litre), and get down to Nissan to get that oil pan gasket..

keep making small adjustments on the bolt; you'll eventually reach the correct point and the shift points will return to normal.. if the reason for the weird shift patterns is due to the over-tightened harness. I went 2+ hours tightening/loosening that damn bolt when I installed my ALCII.

 

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Later,

Phuong - EatRiceZone.com