I've put a boost leak detector on to see if I have any leaks but it doesn't pressurize at all. I'm still getting positive boost on the car but I can't really tell if I'm hitting max boost or not cos I've just had a new clutch and flywheel put in and I'm running them in.

 

Can anyone tell me where to start looking and if anyone knows where there is a good diagram of all the pipework so I can trace them all?

 

Thanks

 

Vijay

Vijay,

 

Running in a clutch / flywheel shouldn't effect you using max boost.

 

Once the clutch is fully engaged, you should be fine. Its the careful engagement and not racing off the line that counts with a new clutch.

 

There was someone else here who had a similar problem trying to pressurize the intake.

 

I didn't experience it with mine......could be a leak?

 

Steve

Hello Steve,

 

I thought I shouldn't up the revs till the clutch had a good few miles on it.....................

 

Any ideas where I start looking?

 

Vijay

Vijay,

It sounds like the leak is before the turbos from the intake?

 

If you are getting boost then the rest of the system must be fairly well sealed but could still have a problem.

Trace the hoses from the intake to the big flexy pipes under/behind the headlights then down the side of the engine onto the cold air inlet of the turbo.

There are joins on the Y pipe of the intake, under the headlights, onto the hardpipes down the side of the engine and then at the turbo itself.

 

If you can get this lot to pressurise then you might be able to find another leak further back in the system.

Chreers Chris. Am I right in saying I need to remove the front bumper?

 

Vijay

Hi Vijay, it's me who's struggling to pressurise my intake system. Are you using a cr*ppy tyre inflator type compressor like I am? I've found I need to put more air in more quickly than my compressor can manage, still trying to find a better compressor to use...

 

It's gotta be worth putting some soapy water about around the joints to see if you can blow any bubbles - I reckon that's gotta be a better bet than listening for leaks - easier to see than hear where it's coming from (apart from in those hard to reach places...)

 

Cheers!

 

RobH

Originally posted by vijay

Chreers Chris. Am I right in saying I need to remove the front bumper?

 

Vijay

 

No you don't need to to check UP TO the turbo but you might if you have a leak AFTER the turbo going back up and down to the intercoolers...

It all depends where the leak is I suppose...

Vijay,

 

I had exactly the same problem and it wouldn't even register after putting a large compressor on. It turned out to be the main intake pipes right at front, god only knows how many times these have been off, underneath the foam heat shield. Didn't realise first of all so stripped all plenum off as I knew there was a problem and changed injectors at same time. Put it back and still the same.:( Could have fixed it in 5 mins. But now created more problems.

Yeah it had about a 2inch split in but ran fine and only realised as wasn't building enough boost at wot.

 

HTH

Don't forget that the pipes from the intake to the turbo are not usually under pressure - they are just sucking the air in from the filter so pressurising it might leak air but under normal conditions this probably would not happen!

You might be tracing a fault that isn't really there.

 

If there is a leak on the outlet from the turbo towards the intercoolers then your boost will be down but you can't tell until it is all sealed from the air filter.

What you using to pump in the air?

 

 

Stuart

I have exctly the same problem, got a hold of a compressor and still can't build pressure.

ok, i was wondering how this was gonna work TBH

 

if you put the adapter in the air intake & then pressurise, the air is gonna go in the intake manifold, through any open inlet valves (or ones that dont seat ;) ) into the cylinders, & straight out the exhaust valves on any cylinder that is on overlap. or does it rely on an airtight seal at the TB's?????

 

so - how does it work?? :confused: lol!

I wondered if that was the case but im no expert and everyone else seems to do it fine!!

Surely you would be better off blocking off the pipes o the throtte bodies and checking on a system that should have no leaks. The throttle bodies will allow a certain amount of air through which is what sets your base idle speed. I know some people have had success without trying the above method but to me its the only way it could work.

Good luck.

 

Paul (SparkZ)

Boys boys boys

 

Enough of this twaddle just junk the turbo's

 

Get your selves an N/A and drive it till you drop, had my'ne 15 monthes, it's seen over 15000 miles now and I love it to bitts.

:mad: :mad: :mad: you just couldn't resist!!!!:D :D

Surely you would be better off blocking off the pipes o the throtte bodies

 

I mailed the guy in the states who originally came up with this idea and this is what he said about the above "No you don't need to do that. Think of how a blow by test is done. The method uses air that is shot in to each cylinder and then when no more psi can be held it escapes from the rings (simply put)".

 

I have no idea what a blow test is:confused:

 

Vijay

We call it a compression test I think is what he is on about.

When you blow the air through can you hear it rushing round?

 

When I put it on and let air in you get a noise like when you blow up a balloon but you can hear it blowing round the engine.

 

Can you hear that, or when you stop putting the air in is it silent? For me if it is silent its early on where the leak is.

 

Are you using a propper compressor? If so, you chould try to turn up the pressure of it. It will cause the air to come out faster and fill the engine quicker and you may be able to find the leak

 

 

 

 

Paul, just thought how it works.

 

The air goes round the intake and turbos and what not and enters the engine. However, the air will not just go out of the values. A cylinder has only the intake open at one time or the exhaust valves open at one time. Air will not get into the cylinders because the intake valve is blocking it. The 1 cylinder which has the intake vavles open and allows the air in, the exhaust valves will be closed so the air cant escape.

 

Stuart

Have you make sure the valve works? It could be blocked or something.

 

Stuart

Just thinking further about what I said how the pressure thing works.

 

If you have 1 or 2 bad rings on your engine, the air would escape very easily and you wouldnt hear it leaking in the middle of your car. Have you run a compression test at all?

 

Stuart

A blow by test is what we call a cylinder leakage test, I do them regularly when checking for leaks in the engine.

 

I was just trying to simplify things a bit, I assume you are only trying to find plumbing problems, ie not engine faults at this stage.

By blocking off the throttle bodies you are removing the engine from the test leaving you with just the intake pipework and turbos under the pressure test. It will remove the possibilities of loosing pressure within the engine and allow you to check just the plumbing for leaks. It is usually very hard to identify hissing sounds within an engine bay when the engine is also making similar sounds itself.

It is also possible that for a few degrees the valves overlap (which is correct on the Z), which will loose pressure out of the exhaust.

 

Sorry Vijay, Only trying to help

:) :)

 

SparkZ (Paul)

The noise I was speaking of settles after a second or so. After you let go of the air, you hear it move round for maybe a second until its settled.

Originally posted by SRRAE

Paul, just thought how it works.

 

The air goes round the intake and turbos and what not and enters the engine. However, the air will not just go out of the values. A cylinder has only the intake open at one time or the exhaust valves open at one time. Air will not get into the cylinders because the intake valve is blocking it. The 1 cylinder which has the intake vavles open and allows the air in, the exhaust valves will be closed so the air cant escape.

 

Stuart

 

this is a very simplistic way of understanding how valves work, and is how most people understand it. in actual fact both the inlet AND the exhaust valves can (& will!) be open at the same time - this is known as the overlap period, & is used to help purge the cylinder of spent gasses.

 

it may be that when some are trying it the valves are on overlap & others are not. try rotating the engine a few degrees to see if it helps.

I've never ever seen so much fucking *****x about what happens inside an engine - if you don't know what you're talkin about, don't open your gob :D

 

Vijay, if you're using a hand pump, I reckon you need to improve your wrist action :D

 

Its possible that the throttle bodies aren't shutting fully and the engine has stopped with one cylinder in overlap. Have you tried just cranking the engine on the starter for a second and trying again? Make sure the PTU is disconnected though so the engine doesn't start.

 

The base idle is set with a screw on the idle valve, not by holding the butterflies slightly open. Off throttle there should be a good seal at the throttle bodies.

 

One other point though - the breather pipes are on the turbo inlet pipes - when you 'inflate' the intake, you will be also pushing air into the crankcase breather system. I really do not think this method is the best (struggling to think of a better one though).

 

Vijay, do you actually have a running problem or just testing the device? If it aint broke, don't fix it ;) lol

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

So I can say fucking but not bollox - thats a bit strange...