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Manual Gearbox question


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I sort of expected it to myself.

 

It needs quite a push to get it into first when still rolling, like when coming up to a red light. Goes in ok when stopped, and even when rolling still doesn't cruch or anything, just requires quite a push !

 

Do you reckon it could just be a function of the new uprated clutch, or maybe the quick-throw gearstick somehow ?

 

Cheers !

konrad

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Guest zevans

First post... but why the hell not? Hello all.

 

All cars are a bit tricky to get into first gear when rolling - try blipping the throttle so that the input shaft and output shaft are going at something like the right speed relative to each other... my TDI is a bugger for this too, difference being, in that car you can pretty much stop in second anyway and so it's rarely a problem in common use.

 

I heard that the cones in 3rd / 4th are particularly prone to wear in Z's... certainly I can't get into 4th from 5th unless I rev match properly. That's fine by me, because it makes me drive the car properly!

 

(Because of course 3500 in 4th is well below 70, ossifer. :D )

 

For peace of mine might be worth checking when the transmission last had an oil change, and which oil was put in it though.

 

It's tricky driving in limp-home mode for those of us that have had the unfortunate pleasure - by the time you're off the clutch in first it's time to change up into second!

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Cheers mate - and welcome ! :)

 

The oil has only just gone in, as has the gearbox - until a few weeks back my Z was automatic !

 

Just wanted to make sure everything was as it should be - never having driven a manual Z.

 

Cheers

konrad

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I have a similar problem with 1st, not bad but just a little notchy, although it is worse when cold and almost disappears when hot. The syncho problem on 4th was improved with fully synth Redline but it's still not great and horrible, horrible things can happen if you rush a gearchange, especially at full throttle !

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Originally posted by AndyP

horrible, horrible things can happen if you rush a gearchange, expecially at full throttle !

 

Sort of hoping the Full Throttle Shift will help there, once the Racelogic arrives. Figure it'll give quicker launch times, and help protect the gearbox when coming back down through the gears.

Well, that's the plan anyway ! :D

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Just to add to the weight of corroboration - my first gear is also a bit difficult when rolling - particularly when it's cold. I'd always figured it was due to the viscosity of the transmission fluid, but it certainly makes sense as a self-protection feature.

 

Russ.

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Guest zevans

"Horrible things can happen when you rush a gearchange"... found that out the hard way the day I picked it up, on the A1(M)... suddenly I had no power on the outside lane going uphill in a very heavy car, with an SLK behind me. :D

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Mine also is a little reluctant to slot 1st from 2nd, but I usually double clutch and then it goes in fine.

 

My gearbox seems to be the opposite of those above though - very easy to change when cold first thing, but as it warms up along a journey it becomes more difficult to go up or down the box.

 

Also a slightly worrying scrapping noise at low revs in 2nd and 4th has materialised - sound like its coming fro the lower passenger side of the engine bay.

 

Any ideas anyone? Car has done 100k - hopefully not gearbox re-build time yet!

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Guest ArundaleP

1st gear has always been a bit(h to get into on my Z. Seems better when warm but can be very tricky when cold or very hot. Matching revs (no lazyness allowed) does the trick though.

 

Konrad, how does the traction contol help on the downchange, I thought it matched the rev on the upchange for full throttle shift? Just interested because I am also waiting for it to arrive.

 

Paul (SparkZ)

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Guest steady eddy

yeah i had the same noise. doesnt sound like any other gearbox noise, like crunching or grinding?

 

dont worry you'll be able to fix it for absolutely nothing. all it is is that the rubber boot on the gear stick has come loose and in second and fourth as you pull the stick back you pull the boot up and noise comes up from the gearbox.

 

you just need to take the centre consol fascia off, 4 screws IIRC, and undo a screw in the ash tray, pull up the gearstick surrond and youll find the rubber thing under the leather sheath thing round the gear stick. just push the rubber thing down making sure you get a good seal all the way round.

 

good lick sorting it out mate:D

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Originally posted by ArundaleP

Konrad, how does the traction contol help on the downchange, I thought it matched the rev on the upchange for full throttle shift? Just interested because I am also waiting for it to arrive.

 

Paul (SparkZ)

 

As I understand it (hearsay only at the moment mind!) you set the Racelogic to whatever revs you decide you want and it sets the engine to that whenever you press the clutch. I don't see how it could tell the difference between clutching to change up and changing down. I reckon if you set it to say 2.5/3,000 revs then it shouldn't go any lower than that when you're changing down ?

 

Could change my mind once I get the instructions though ! :D

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Guest AndrewG

Alex C, the gear shift can become stiff because the gear lever bushing material expands as the car gets hot. When the car cools down, the problem goes away.

 

If you experience this problem back off the nut on the bushings about 1/4-1/2 turn.

 

This is how to get to the bushings:

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/bushingstech.html

 

-Andrew

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Originally posted by konrad

I sort of expected it to myself.

 

It needs quite a push to get it into first when still rolling, like when coming up to a red light. Goes in ok when stopped, and even when rolling still doesn't cruch or anything, just requires quite a push !

 

Do you reckon it could just be a function of the new uprated clutch, or maybe the quick-throw gearstick somehow ?

 

Cheers !

konrad

 

 

If you are having troulble getting from 2nd to 1st when rolling, that is normal. There is something in the gear box which makes it hard to do that or should even stop it if you are still moving, its so you dont accidently drop into 1st when you are moving too fast blowing your engine and gearbox up.

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Originally posted by ArundaleP

1st gear has always been a bit(h to get into on my Z. Seems better when warm but can be very tricky when cold or very hot. Matching revs (no lazyness allowed) does the trick though.

 

Konrad, how does the traction contol help on the downchange, I thought it matched the rev on the upchange for full throttle shift? Just interested because I am also waiting for it to arrive.

 

Paul (SparkZ)

 

 

There is an extra thing you can get with your traction control which allows you to keep your foot plastered to the floor when changing gears. A 2nd rev limiter comes in when you clitch is pushed so your revs drop to about 5000rpm or so, and when you put it into gear and release the clutch your turbos are spooled up and you wont waste time.

 

Its is an extra thing though, you have to pay extra for it and it is a great way to ruin your clutch.

 

Stuart

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Originally posted by SRRAE

There is an extra thing you can get with your traction control which allows you to keep your foot plastered to the floor when changing gears. A 2nd rev limiter comes in when you clitch is pushed so your revs drop to about 5000rpm or so, and when you put it into gear and release the clutch your turbos are spooled up and you wont waste time.

 

Its is an extra thing though, you have to pay extra for it and it is a great way to ruin your clutch.

 

Stuart

 

 

That's the Full Throttle Shift. It's just an extra 100 notes; which seems a bargain if it does all that's promised !

I'll let you all know once mine's on ! :cool:

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