I have just upgraded from my Ford Probe to a real sports car, a manual 1990 300zx import. However I have a problem. I got the car home no problem, but cannot now get it started!

 

When I turn the key I get no response, not a whisper. The electrics all work okay, I recharged the battery, I even tried a new battery.

 

The only thing I have noticed is when I turn the key the engine light comes on with CHECK across it. What does this mean? How can I get the car started again?

 

Any help is gratefully accepted.

 

Colin

So nothing happens when you turn the key? Doesnt starter motor no noise? Do the lights dim?

 

Stuart

No noise at all from engine, lights stay on!

You have an imobaliser on it mate ;)

Yes I know - but I know how to disable it using the key in the dash!

I also have that key. Dosent work though.

 

Although immobilizer does.

I am assuming that mine does - is there any way to disable it to test that it does/doesn't?

If its an auto, you've not left the shifter in anything other than "park" have you?

 

Sorry to state the "obvious" but I was stumped by that one after moving the shifter down to disconnect the clock :o

 

If I try to start mine without un-immobilising first I dont think any light at all come on IIRC.

 

Pete

Originally posted by pete shrimp

If its an auto, you've not left the shifter in anything other than "park" have you?

 

Sorry to state the "obvious" but I was stumped by that one after moving the shifter down to disconnect the clock :o

 

If I try to start mine without un-immobilising first I dont think any light at all come on IIRC.

 

Pete

 

My Z immobilser the dash lights dont come on with the ignition if the immobiliser is on.

 

My Corsa immobiliser allows the dash to come on with the ignition but doesnt start the engine.

 

Cat 2 immobilisers I think have to be a 3 point immobiliser. Ignition, starter and fuel pump. It could be the immobiliser is playing up and wont give power to the starter.

 

Does the pump start when you turn the ignition on. You can hear it for about 2 seconds. You can hear it better from out side, so try get some one to stand at the back of the car and listen.

 

Stuart

Have you ran an ECU diagnostic on it?

 

Do you know how to do it?

 

Stuart

It might be worth mentioning to him as well that the orange warning light with CHECK written across it means the ECU has been left in diagnostic mode. Which has nothing to do with the starting problem, no... :S

Does that mean it is in diag mode?

 

According to my manual the check light is meant to come on with the ignition.

 

Stuart

Hmm, my J-spec came with it showing an orange CHECK engine light, and when Nico looked the car over it disappeared. I asked him about it and he said the ECU had been left in diag, and after he'd done a test he'd turned it back to normal.

I did an ECU diag only today, and the orange light came on when I turned the screw, went off when I turned it back.

 

Otherwise, I don't get it, all I get is a red engine light, red h/brake light, and that bloody LIGHTS light that I can't track down the cause of :S Maybe J-specs are different, or maybe it's just my car that's nutty :/

The book says

Charge Warning Light

Brake Warning Light

Emission system Warning Light (Check light)

Anti-lock Brake Warning Light

Stop/Tail Warning Light

AT Check Light.

 

Sould come on. Could be a Jap thing.

 

Is the Handbook available online?

Would it be handy if some one scanned it into PDF or something?

 

Stuart

Woah! I don't have half of those things :S "Emission system warning light"? Is that what it is? Wow...

I think a pdf'd manual would be useful given the number of J-specs around, and the number of basic questions new owners have to ask about what light/button does what. Good plan :)

Thanks for the suggestions - if some one could get the manual online it would be really useful.

 

I can hear a slight whirring noise for about a second when I turn the key. How do I do an ECU diag? If someone could let me know I can have a look at the weekend.

 

Cheers.

ECU Diag starts

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=48&design=default&total=190

 

Basically. Find the ECU, under the passenger's feet. There is a wooden panel, take it off and you will see it.

 

On the left side of the ECU is a small flat head screw. Turn your ignition on turn this screw fully anti clockwise wait 2 seconds and then turn it back.

The Check light will flash on your dash as well as a little light next the the screw you just turned. You will get a number of long flashes and a number of short flashes and then a slight pause to symbolise it starting again.

Count the number of long flashes, this is your tens. Count the short flashes. This is the units. For example if you get 4 long flashes and then 2 short flashes, it's code 24.

 

Then look up the value on this page.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=51&design=default&total=190

This tells you what the numbers mean. Find out and get back to us. ;)

 

Stuart

Originally posted by SRRAE

You will get a number of long flashes and a number of short flashes and then a slight pause to symbolise it starting again.

Count the number of long flashes, this is your tens. Count the short flashes. This is the units. For example if you get 4 long flashes and then 2 short flashes, it's code 24.

 

Stuart - is this the right way round? If long flashes is tens, then your example is code 42?

 

:confused: - Gio

Originally posted by colin

Thanks for the suggestions - if some one could get the manual online it would be really useful.

 

I can hear a slight whirring noise for about a second when I turn the key. How do I do an ECU diag? If someone could let me know I can have a look at the weekend.

 

Cheers.

 

The whirring noise is probably the fuel pump getting up to pressure.

Is it an auto?

I would check the lever is in park or neutral as Pete said.

I sometimes have a problem with the ignition inhibitor switch on the lever not engaging correctly and even in park it won't start.

I have to move the lever through the gears and then it starts OK.

Worth a try.

 

Other than that, is the battery flat from standing at the dealer?

Try giving it a good charge or replace it.

People have had some odd results with low power batteries due to the amount of electronics in these cars.

It can look like there is power to run the accessories but it still won't start.

Now i'm stumped - I have just bought a brand new battery and it won't start.

 

I have tried the ECU test and got result 55 - no malfunctions!

 

Should I try adding power by jump starting?

 

Could it be an immoboliser problem? If so how do I bypass the immoboliser?

 

The car is manual, so the auto cant be a problem.

 

Any thoughts anyone? I'm getting really pi**ed off that I can't drive my new car!

 

Thanks.

Have you spoken to the person you bought the car off?

 

They may have the magic answer!

Yes, I phoned and asked him. He told me that the battery had been charged the night before, then started first time. So no help there then, but good suggestion.

 

Thanks.

Er... if the fuel pump kicks in when the key's turned and the ECU can run a diagnostic, then obviously the ECU's not imobilised... so it's either a cheap (non-CAT2) imobiliser which hasn't turned off properly (and still cuts the starter)... or something in the imob's busted (and never un-cuts the starter)... or the wire to the starter's busted... or the starter's fook'd... or... I dunno.

 

Maybe try bump-starting it if it's a manual... making sure you've got enough people to get it back to a parking space if it won't start.

Just a thought, did you buy the car from a forum member?

 

:rolleyes:

Unfortunately not!

 

I am going to try to have a look at the wiring on the immoboliser to see if any wires have come loose.

 

One question - there is a big red switch under the steering column - what is this for?

 

Thanks.

Crikey, DON'T PRESS THAT!!! It's the self-destruct!!!

 

I don't remember any red switch under my steering. I can't imagine what it's for, unless it's a starter cut-off. You reckon?!