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hey has anyone actually tried this????

 

ya know filing down the stop block thing that stops the butterflies opening anymore when u floor it ?

 

anyone know what i mean?

 

i have a mpg of it if anyone wants to see

 

there was a post on it but i cant find it again

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cheers dude,

 

no one found anything out yet thou?

 

i wanna take the pipes off to see exactly how the butterflies are when the pedal is floored

it seems like a lot ofwork to get the pipes of thou is it?

I found an adjustment screw on mine which I just screwed in.

 

I found that the pedelmoved 1/2 an inch lower and the mid range responce was better.

 

Stuart

  • Author

hmmm i can see too little screws at each end, but they only stop the thing closing to much, for idle i guess,

 

i have just a solid metal lump that stops it going back any further (:(

Maybe the different year have different things. Cos this is a way of resticting the engine so its so powerful off the produciton line but can easily be un-restricted when you get it. The government may have put a stop to this method.

 

Here are the pics of the adjuster.

 

This is a pis of the throttle cover off. You can see the adjuster to the right of the throttle and cruise control cables.

attachment.php?s=&postid=139705

 

 

Here is the adjusting nut closer up. Its a 10mm if you are wondering.

attachment.php?s=&postid=139706

 

 

Stuart

  • Author

damn, thats a shame mine aint got that lol

would be so much easier haha

 

mine is just a solid lump

 

do the butterfiles not open fully then as standard?

 

do u have msn??

Hehe funny, I was looking at this last night and came up with a MUCH quicker way - bend the metal tab which hits the stop out of the way - no filing, no risking get filings in your engine/electrics etc - oh and you can bend it back there if you want the stop back :D

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

I thought of that Andy but doesn't it mean the can go past horizontal with a heavy foot?

Or do the stops on the TB's sort that out?

 

What year/spec is your car Stuart?

Can't say I noticed the screw on mine last time I took the throttle assembly off.

Is the lump on the throttle section or on the plenum?

Looks like a pain to file down! :(

 

I'd look at mine but it's gathering moss at my mums :O

My curiosity got the better of me so I just took a look at mine. There is no adjuster screw and the setup does look identical to the one in the vid. Maybe, just maybe, this is one of the more subtle import restrictions .... Will have a look down the throttle bodies tomorrow, to see how far the butterflies open.

So are we sure that this lump or screw was put there purely to limit the power of the Z. Surely there must some downside to removing or adjusting it.

Wouldn't the ECU have to remapped or the TPS adjusted ?

just a thought, if the ecu or whatever had to be remmapped to deal with the throttle on a wider opening, surely you wouldnt need to put a limiter on it? Throttle would open, engine would run like shit, no problem (from a potential limiters point of view). You would only limit, or indeed use a throttle opening if it was going to work in the first place?

 

I say this because they used to put rubber grommets into the throttle bodies on bikes, particularly Kwackers. Cut out the grommet with a stanley and another 20 or so of the finest ponies ran out.

 

 

Have I made sense, or should I get my coat?

Had a look with the hose off - if you screw the adjuster in fully (with the locknut still in place) the butterfly opens to just short of horizontal. By removing the locknut you could get it to fully horizontal but as the Throttle bodies are actually angled slightly downwards I left the locknut on.

Unfortunately, as I haven't got a gearbox at the moment I can't test what benefit there is!

 

Colin

So yours is a UK model ?

 

Originally posted by Dick300

Had a look with the hose off - if you screw the adjuster in fully (with the locknut still in place) the butterfly opens to just short of horizontal. By removing the locknut you could get it to fully horizontal but as the Throttle bodies are actually angled slightly downwards I left the locknut on.

Unfortunately, as I haven't got a gearbox at the moment I can't test what benefit there is!

 

Colin

I think the adjustment nut must be on the very early Z32s. There are stops on each throttle body to stop the butterflies opening too much so.... Can't see the ecu having to be remapped either. This will definitely have an effect - whether it will be noticeable I'm not sure. With the butterflies not opening fully there will be turbulence in the throttle bodies - let them open fully and you should get more air in....

 

CheerZ,

 

Andy

Mine is a UK 1991. So it may be a UK thing or they stopped it on the series 2 Z.

 

I found that with the screw all the way in the butterflies where perfectly flat when the throttle was fully open. Taking the nut off will cause the butterflies to start to lean back and closing it up again.

 

If I didnt have this adjuster I wouldnt have filed down my plenium.

 

Looking at it when the throttle was fully open before I adjusted it, the butterflies where open a lot, and I dont really think they would have caused much difference at in airflow at high speed as the pressure would push past it. But with them no going flat, their will be a slight increase, but not much, of air at high speeds, but it will less turbulent.

 

However at lower speeds the slight closed butterflies will restrict some flow of air. I acutally thought that my car was more responsive mid range at lower speeds. 1st gear or so.

 

Stuart

Well Mines a jap spec '89 Z32, and look what I can see :D

 

f3.jpg

 

Now where's that 10mm socket gone :D

In that case, it's got to be an auto manual thing.

 

Maybe Nissan knew that stock Manuals were so much quicker than the Auto's so they put the screw there to stop the butterfly's opening up fully, therefore reducing the power so that it came in line with the auto's.

 

I mean the Auto has smaller turbo's but the same engine right ?. So the power from the manual Turbo's had to be controlled somehow.

 

Nissan knew that in future, forums would participate in an Auto v Manual war, so they thought they better make them equal.

 

So all along for the past 5 - 14 years, we have been arguing over a small screw. This is all that stood in the way of manual supremacy.

 

Finally got that one sorted.

In actual fact, the auto's were too fast compared to the manuals, so they had to take away the "go-a-little-bit-faster" mod on the auto just in case that gap was widened to a silly proportion. So by adjusting this screw, you manual boys might just get up to where we've been all along! :D

And to make sure we can't do the same mod, they made our "stopper" thing a solid block.

Originally posted by james300

In actual fact, the auto's were too fast compared to the manuals, so they had to take away the "go-a-little-bit-faster" mod on the auto just in case that gap was widened to a silly proportion. So by adjusting this screw, you manual boys might just get up to where we've been all along! :D

And to make sure we can't do the same mod, they made our "stopper" thing a solid block.

What a crock of sheet !!!!!

LMAO !!!!

 

Right James, when I come down to get my zorst, were gonna settle this at some traffic lights, I don't care if you got me boost than me :p

Up to a 100 and I'm confident.......(well, and over, I mean not off from standstill) lol :D

 

I never really defend the auto's.........I always wanted a manual!

But my auto was too good to pass up.

(From Nissan USA) : (from TTnet)

 

"Aside from minor changes in the ECU, the cam profiles & turbos are also different between the M/T & A/T models. The A/T has 240 degree intake cams & 248 degree exhaust cams (the M/T has 248 degree cams for both intake & exhaust). Also, the A/T uses smaller turbos for more responsive low speed acceleration (the A/R ratio is 0.63 for the M/T & only 0.54 for the A/T). Even with 20HP less, the A/T turbo is capable of beating the M/T turbo to 100MPH."

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