Hi,

 

Took a long drive down south over the weekend during which a red light on the dash came on and at the same time the car seemed to hesitate if you feathered the accelerator. If you floored it you got full boost and plenty of power. The light can only be described as a block with heat rising from it.

 

I seem to recall that this is the cat overheat light. I have been advised that the hesitation could be unburnt fuel igniting in the cats but im no expert so who knows.

 

Have any of you had this problem and how did you cure it. What happens when the light comes on to cause the hesitation and is it possible to disconnect it from the system.

 

Help guys please...:confused:

 

 

Dean.

Raz's car did the same thing. We cleaned all the connectors and in particulat the ptu. Go get some contact cleaner and then about an hour of your time and hopefully you'll be ok.

 

Good luck,

 

Vijay

Yep, checkout the electrical connectors on the coilpacks.

Yes, I think that is the cat overheat light. Only on Jap models, I think.

 

Mine does that from time to time (very occasionally). Sometimes because it is just hot. I would doubt that the light coming on causes the hesitation. It is just telling you you've got a problem.

 

I would guess that if you disconnected the light without curing the problem - you'll still get the hesitation.

 

Cheers - Gio

Thanks guys,

 

Vijay - Would wd40 be any good as a contact cleaner.

 

AndyP - How do do get the connectors on the coilpacks off.

 

Cheers,

 

 

Dean

Cat over temp warning is the light you had up. Probably due to an ignition misfire. Check coilpack connections and at PTU.

Don'y use WD40, doesn't clean anything off just adds to the mess.

The best contact cleaner I have used is Wurth's Contact OL and Contact SW one after the other. It's not too expensive (unusual for Wurth) but it is bloody good at eating the green goo from connections. I think it actually desolves the corrosion leaving just clean contact (if there is any left).

I use it all day on French cars!

Where can you buy this oil from?

Wurth UK.

Here is the number 0870 598 7841

Originally posted by ArundaleP

...I think it actually desolves the corrosion leaving just clean contact (if there is any left).

I use it all day on French cars!

 

Why not just spray the whole bloody car and be done with it :D No more french shit on our roads :D:D:D

French Cars make good mobile skips!!! Burn them all:D :D :D :D

http://www.wurth.co.uk

You got your disc to work then???

:)

Uh, ? Me ?

 

 

 

Originally posted by ArundaleP

You got your disc to work then???

:)

I presumed the info sheet came from the CD. I got mine from the rep and have never managed to get it to work.

Oh I see. Nope, from the web page. It has their whole cataloge in pdf format.

Thanks Guys,

 

Sorry ArundaleP already used wd40 on the connectors to the PTU, they were very green. Will see how it goes but will probably get some of that Wurth's stuff and do it again if I have too.

 

How do you get the coil pack connectors off presuming they come off???

 

Cheers,

 

 

Dean

2 bolts on each, then pull.

 

Vijay

The connectors are a bitch to get off. Very very carefully is the answer, they will be brittle and easily damaged. I find that if you push down on the connector (to take load of the release clip) and then press the release clip in it should with a gentle tug come off.

If some numpty has broken the clip then you will have to push the two halfs of the release clip in with a small flat bladed screwdriver and again a gentle tug to get it off.

:D

Sorry forgot to add this to the last post.

For very corroded contacts:-

* 1st use the Wurth stuff (several times if really nasty)

* Use a fibreglass pencil (available from electronics catalogue) and scrape as much of the green away.

* Use the Contact SW to wash away the crud and protect the clean (ish) terminal.

 

Good luck,

 

:D :D

Hi,

 

Thanks vijay and arundaleP and others

 

Had a look at the coilpack connections last night, well the four I could get to anyway, and they were fine no corrosion at all. The other two are a pig to get at, looks like you have to remove the fuel rail/balance pipe.

 

Think this is a job for over Easter.

 

Anyway the hesitation I was getting seems to have gone but I will have to take it down the motorway to be sure.

 

Thanks again,

 

 

Dean.

Still got the hesitation fault, see earlier in post. I have had the injector connections checked and they are all fine.

 

Would fitting new spark plugs help any.????????

 

I have been told that it could be the o2 sensors playing up. :confused: :confused:

 

Anyone know how much these are to fix and if is it a big or small job.

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

Dean.

Been doing a bit of searching and have found a write up on stu(smw1) website detailing how to check and change the o2 sensors so I will be giving that a go.

 

Cheers,

 

 

Dean.

The passenger side is a doddle with the right tool, or a complete nightmare with the wrong one.

 

The drivers side is slighty more difficult. :D

 

Before you change them I would get them checked. A conZult is the easiest way to check these.

 

Get someone to run a diag, go to full data monitoring, once the car has warmed (O2 sensors are ignored while the car is cold), then rev and hold to about 2,500 rpm. Both O2 sensors should rise and fall between .0 and .80.

 

If the O2 sensor is completely dead. it will register at a constant 1.54 volts. If the O2 sensor is lazy it will hardly react.

 

You want a good amount of movement in the readings displayed on the conZult.