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Getting her back on the road. MOT fail.

Ok, Some of you have been enormously helpful with resolving the misfire of my car. Thank you! and shout out to Jim @PowerZed who supplied an ECU next day.

Next problem is after having the car dry stored for a few years then had the MOT done. Took it to a different place where it failed. the car had done almost no miles since the previous. 
Below is the fail points. Ignore the light bulbs, fog light, tyres and number plate....

I wanted some advice. feel free to chime in with any feedback. I want to get the car back on the road cheaply for now as I am out of work due covid and sold our other cars.

The main question I need to know is can I do this work myself? I'm fairly practical and I do have time but I don't have a workshop of tools.

Here is the link to my google drive folder with the pics, I hope thats ok? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zqaxZ7-U6l5d2ZKMdaC26CbGQXyZ54tN?usp=sharing

 

Thanks.

Fran

Featured Replies

Regarding the o/s rear sill. Usually the culprit for serious corrosion appearing on the outer sill is a blocked or detached rear targa drain inside the sill

assembly. It also means that the corrosion is a lot worse than you can see. This thread (and the linked thread from redwine300 within - scroll down a bit) 

shows the likely damage and work involved in fixing it. It can be repaired but it is a lot of work.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

Edited by AndrewG

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for this info. Although now I am worried about the extent of the rust as it appears to only be in the area I photo'd not along the entire sill. Is it possible to easily check if the Targa drain is blocked?

Yes, you can run water down the drain hole at the rear of the targa (pic shows n/s but same for o/s). It should exit via a plastic pipe on a good

sill in a exit slot formed in the lower edge of the sill.

TQ2hsKu.thumb.jpg.56baec4f0792cb7ee950c54a9707ab2b.jpg

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/uploads/monthly_2013_08/IMG_3820.jpg.5989db491d69d90b6bcbc3fc3f276213.jpg

Here is another thread which deals with the damage to the rear sill section.

https://www.groundupbuilds.com/blog/2017/9/25/more-rust-z32-project-chapter-two

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

Ok, just went to check as that would probably keep me up at night. 
The water runs down nicely. you can hear it flowing down the pipe. and it exits in its slot.  

The rust is only on the inside of the wheel arch. there is no evidence of damage forward of the arch and the pipe outlet is a little way further further forward, but if there is something else I check?

cheers
 

To see how bad they are, you can strip out the rear seats and panels and get a camera phone to look down into the inside of the sill itself (or a boroscope if you have access to one - £30 from Amazon).

Or at the more extreme end of the scale - drill a small hole into where there is already rust and then stick a boroscope through the hole. Though looking at the images you linked too a screwdriver might easily go through that and remove the need for drilling. 

Zed #2: 1998 Midnight Purple 2+2 NA. (owned 2020 - now) 

Zed #1: 1995 Blue Slicktop NA (2013-2015)

 

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