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I found this how-to http://www.ttzd.com/tech/fuelfiltertech.html

ConZult has a fuel pressure release button - if I use that, do I need to do the remove fuse / crank engine to release fuel pressure as in the how-to, or will using the ConZult fuel pressure release be enough? Thanks.

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Completely unnecessary, simply leaving the car overnight un-started and the majority of the pressure leaks away back into the tank, this is the very reason the fuel pump has to prime when the ignition is switched on, that said always use catch cloths and never, never change the filter on a hot engine, that exhaust manifold / turbo is inches away...

 

 

Jeff

  • Author
Yes, same function as Nissan's Consult.

Thanks - I see the manual says to crank it a few times after using that function. Which sort of implies needing to remove the fuel pump fuse in case it re-pressurises the system.

The ConZult button is this one:

ConZult Fuel Pressure Release.png

 

Completely unnecessary, simply leaving the car overnight un-started and the majority of the pressure leaks away back into the tank, this is the very reason the fuel pump has to prime when the ignition is switched on

Ah, that makes sense, thanks.

 

that said always use catch cloths and never, never change the filter on a hot engine, that exhaust manifold / turbo is inches away...

 

Haha - as the TTZ page says

Put towels under the fuel filter to catch any gasoline. No smoking or any other flammable activity while doing this! I can't believe I need to put a disclaimer in there like this.

Thanks guys.

Thanks - I see the manual says to crank it a few times after using that function. Which sort of implies needing to remove the fuel pump fuse in case it re-pressurises the system.

The ConZult button is this one:.

 

Same function, kills the power to the pump. Engine dies of fuel starvation. Crank the engine over to make sure there is no

residual fuel under pressure. Then leave ignition off (take the key out if you want). Do the filter change catching any fuel

dribbling out of the broken joints. You can leave the fuse in situ.

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
Crank the engine over to make sure there is no residual fuel under pressure.

That's the bit I'm being a bit dense about - what to do after the engine has stalled. Does this mean use the ignition key to try to start the motor (in which case, why won't it just start?) or something else?

Just to clarify, why on earth would running the engine and warming the manifolds /turbo`s be a good idea when the next job is to open the fuel system close by??

 

Just change the filter in after an over night shut down and no pressure...simples.

 

Jeff

That's the bit I'm being a bit dense about - what to do after the engine has stalled. Does this mean use the ignition key to try to start the motor (in which case, why won't it just start?) or something else?

 

So long as the key is kept in the "ON" position after cranking the engine (with the ConZult still connected) the ECU will still be powered up

and keep the fuel pump off. The ECU will reset (and control the fuel pump normally on the next start) when the key is removed and power

is cut to the ECU.

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author
So long as the key is kept in the "ON" position after cranking the engine (with the ConZult still connected) the ECU will still be powered up

and keep the fuel pump off.

Got it, thanks.

Completely unnecessary, simply leaving the car overnight un-started and the majority of the pressure leaks away back into the tank, this is the very reason the fuel pump has to prime when the ignition is switched on, that said always use catch cloths and never, never change the filter on a hot engine, that exhaust manifold / turbo is inches away...

 

 

Jeff

 

Excellent advice - and thanks Jeff...…!! I was wondering whether to use clamps and the like - but I'll just do this:thumbup:

 

Might even replace the section of rubber hose after the filter too:cool:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

Excellent advice - and thanks Jeff...…!! I was wondering whether to use clamps and the like - but I'll just do this:thumbup:

 

Might even replace the section of rubber hose after the filter too:cool:

 

Good plan !!

 

Jeff

  • Author
Just change the filter in after an over night shut down and no pressure...simples.

 

Jeff

 

The JeffTT method worked fine. Careful as the filter itself is full of petrol (no, really :) ) so be prepared for a bit of spillage and have something ready you can drain the old filter into. An old towel tucked under the filter before you start catches the drips as you remove the hoses. The clamps can be unscrewed quite a way to get them pushed back over the flange on the filter pipes. I found it easier to disconnect the engine side one, then loosen the battery side one and loosen the filter clamp to remove the filter (bit of screwdriver leverage on the hose while wobbling the filter) rather then disconnect the battery side one before removing the filter as it says in the how-to.

 

bent fuel filter tube.jpg

I noticed the old filter had a bent pipe. This, and the cable-tied air hose and the borked MAF grille makes me think someone's been a bit cack-handed. Not going there again (don't worry, nobody on here, just local garage).

The JeffTT method worked fine. Careful as the filter itself is full of petrol (no, really :) ) so be prepared for a bit of spillage and have something ready you can drain the old filter into. An old towel tucked under the filter before you start catches the drips as you remove the hoses. The clamps can be unscrewed quite a way to get them pushed back over the flange on the filter pipes. I found it easier to disconnect the engine side one, then loosen the battery side one and loosen the filter clamp to remove the filter (bit of screwdriver leverage on the hose while wobbling the filter) rather then disconnect the battery side one before removing the filter as it says in the how-to.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116535[/ATTACH]

I noticed the old filter had a bent pipe. This, and the cable-tied air hose and the borked MAF grille makes me think someone's been a bit cack-handed. Not going there again (don't worry, nobody on here, just local garage).

 

 

Must change mine Mike as it sits in the garage whit the battery out. Thanks for the info.

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